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Just hit 14k miles on my 18..what am I doing wrong?

Loki-GT

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I recomend you guys try harder. Maybe throw a bunch of power adding parts. And hit the drag strip.
No power adder yet but been to the drag strip 4 times. :)
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gmupatriot

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No rattles
My motor has not blown up
My AC still works

Is my 18 broken? Shouldn't all of these things be happening by now?
@GNN60GT500

Glad you are having good luck with yours.

Mine with 13.7K miles (Purchased Jan 2018) has had rattles in the driver side A pillar, passenger side C pillar/rear dash area, paint bubbling issues, driver side C pillar started to come off as the clips are of such low quality, the driver seat bolstering is showing wear on the leather and stitching despite the fact that I clean the seats and treat them with Lexol monthly, to prevent this sort of thing. There is a vibration/shake in the steering wheel and foot-well area that is not going away even after getting a road force balancing and rotation. This vibration is making my rear view mirror buzz and results in a blurry image. I am sure I am forgetting a couple of others things but yea not all of us are so lucky!
 

bootlegger

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@GNN60GT500

Glad you are having good luck with yours.

Mine with 13.7K miles (Purchased Jan 2018) has had rattles in the driver side A pillar, passenger side C pillar/rear dash area, paint bubbling issues, driver side C pillar started to come off as the clips are of such low quality, the driver seat bolstering is showing wear on the leather and stitching despite the fact that I clean the seats and treat them with Lexol monthly, to prevent this sort of thing. There is a vibration/shake in the steering wheel and foot-well area that is not going away even after getting a road force balancing and rotation. This vibration is making my rear view mirror buzz and results in a blurry image. I am sure I am forgetting a couple of others things but yea not all of us are so lucky!
I have a blurry mirror, mainly because it seems loose in the mount. I had the same issue with my 2011 WRX STI.
 

gmupatriot

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I have a blurry mirror, mainly because it seems loose in the mount. I had the same issue with my 2011 WRX STI.
Any fix for this sir? I would appreciate your input.

Just an FYI for anyone reading my response to OP. The shake is not driveshaft related as I do not have any humming sound or feel the vibration in the shifter or center console. It is strictly a tire/balancing issue as this point because my steering has a shimmy back and forth.
 

qtrracer

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Almost 28K on my 16. Was a DD; all season; sat outside. Open tracked, auto crossed. Spun out, hit rev limiter a lot, engaged anti-lock; did burn outs. I tried but no rattles, odd sounds, paint issues, etc. I don't understand.
 

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GNN60GT500

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I traded mine into.irvine Chevrolet this weekend so if anyone wants a no rattle no problem GT I'm sure it will be back up for sale on their lot soon
 

Intrepid175

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Yeah only 13k on my 2016 but it’s rock solid and pretty much stock. :rockon:
Likewise, only mine has 21k+ miles and so far, no problems at all. Hope I'm not jinxing myself. Only aftermarket on my car is a set of pneumatic hood props.
 

Mazman

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Fact
some cars are prone to have issues not matter what....

I have driven 4k miles so far

1: I have a ticking noise which has been identified by the shop (shop don't know what to do)
2: My passenger door had at some point touched the front fender so the paint was chipped on both parts (spot painted)
3: My trunk has at some point touched the rear "fender" so the paint has been chipped on both parts (not addressed yet)
4: I have imperfections at least on two places in the bodywork that is showing through the paint (not addressed yet)
5: My brake pad on the driver side does not seem to be braking over the whole rotor and I have alot of scoring on both front rotors(not addressed yet)
6: Rattle from the trim pieces below the rear windows sounds like having keys rattling back there --> drives me nuts(not addressed yet)
7: Belt lock on the driver side makes is making grinding noises --> drives me nuts (shop has not addressed this eventhough they have heard it)
8: Armrest on the driver side is making grinding noises --> drives me nuts (shop has not addressed this eventhough they have heard it)
9: The hood has a halv inch gap on the passenger side on driver side where it meets the fender (shop has not addressed this eventhoug they have seen it)
10: The door on the driver side looks like it is not fully closed (eventhough shop has adjusted this)
11: The outside trim around the rear window has not been glued correctly so I can pull the trim away from the bodywork like 1"(shop has not addressed this eventhough they have seen it)

Stuff which I cannot blame manufacturing
Had the car lowered, I have had to do 4 alignments, buy the steeda subframe alignment kit to get the rear sorted out. The whole subframe was misaligned (this could have actually been from factory)
I have Xpel done to the frome the A-pillars and forward. I have been back 4 times for them to make adjustment/re-applying of the film. I have a new appointment on thursday to do some more adjustments....

I don't buy the arguments you get what pay for... We have Dacia here which cost 5 times less and I have explicitly checked e.g. the panels and those are not as bad
 

bootlegger

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Any fix for this sir? I would appreciate your input.

Just an FYI for anyone reading my response to OP. The shake is not driveshaft related as I do not have any humming sound or feel the vibration in the shifter or center console. It is strictly a tire/balancing issue as this point because my steering has a shimmy back and forth.
This is the fix for the Subaru, but I have no idea if the assembly on the Mustang is similar. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2687087
 

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bootlegger

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Any fix for this sir? I would appreciate your input.

Just an FYI for anyone reading my response to OP. The shake is not driveshaft related as I do not have any humming sound or feel the vibration in the shifter or center console. It is strictly a tire/balancing issue as this point because my steering has a shimmy back and forth.
This is the fix for the Subaru, but I have no idea if the assembly on the Mustang is similar. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2687087
 

66Bronc1

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I have only 1K miles on mine and have had it just over a month. No issues at all. If there are issues, defects I usually find them right away. I took the GT on two test drives though and checked it out thoroughly almost like it was a used car before I bought it. I found issues with my new 2017 Camaro almost right away.

So far, loving the GT- the way it starts, stops, drives and tracks. It tracks so laser straight compared to other cars I test drove. Mine has a late build date- April I believe.
 

The_Phantom

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11k miles here.

My issue list is:

1. @8k miles a CEL for the PCM losing it's programming
2. Passenger side rattle caused by the passenger seat belt rubbing against the door panel
3. Misc. rear seat rattle that I can not seem to track down
4. The panels aren't aligned well. This is typical of American cars. My brother just purchased an '18 GT base last weekend and every single car on the lot had panel gap issues. The dealership was not hesitant to point out that, "They all do". Not buying that anyone got a perfectly paneled Mustang. Sorry. Does it bother me? No...it's expected at this point. But it should be preventable by now.
5. Engine has a slight ticking at lower RPM's. So far it is not consistent, so I haven't bought it to the dealer. Don't need them to tell me they can't replicate it.
6. Paper-thin paint chipped in multiple places just from normal driving

That's pretty much it. I do enjoy driving my car and think it looks awesome. I just wish the build quality matched the looks.
 

Madtel4

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I have just over 7K all is well, I love this car on long road trips.
Lee
 

Osofast

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3. Misc. rear seat rattle that I can not seem to track down
We were on are way home from a 3 hr road trip last week and my son sits in the rear seat all the time about 1 hr into the trip we started to hear a noise coming from the passenger side rear.
After about 5 min of that it got really annoying, so he started moving his hand around the plastic to the right of the seat if you where in the rear passenger side. With in a min or so he was able to stop the sound on command by placing some pressure on one spot on the panel.
Following day I removed that panel and found that there are some foam blocks on the inside of the plastic used to help support it so it does not collapse when someone pushes on it.
These blocks are held in with a sort of washer with teeth that grab a plastic post, that over time lossen up, allowing the block to vibrate and then squeak or rattle against the plastic and the metal of the body.
I removed both blocks and used some stick backed Velcro, just the soft fuzzy part and ran it across the block to keep the parts from touching and making any sound if they were to loosen up again.
All in all it took about 35 mins to pull out the panel remove the clips and blocks, apply the Velcro, put the blocks back and put the panel and the rear seat bottom back in.
Haven’t had a sound since,now I’m just waiting for the drivers side to start.
Hope this is the solution to your problem.
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