Another brake question (pads and rotors)

[Dragster]

Hey everyone! I'm looking for some advice regarding pads and rotors for my car (GT PP). Here is my situation: I typically only do 2 HPDEs per year, but after watching someone put their car into the barrier at the track due to brake failure, I decided that I should probably put money into making sure my brakes don't fail me before I try to get more out of the engine.

With that said, I just picked up a set of Bear Eradispeed+ 2-piece drilled and slotted rotors for my car. I know people will knock the drilled rotors, but for my budget (they are on sale for BF/CM at CJ Pony Parts) I think they were the best option. Figured they should probably dissipate heat better than the stock rotors, and they're quite a bit lighter too, which is a plus. My question is this: should I break in the new rotors with my current stock pads, or swap out the pads at the same time and break everything in together?

I'm also looking for input as far as pads for my car. My car is a GT PP with about 5,000 miles, and is basically a weekend toy that will do 2 HPDEs per year. I like the performance and feel of the stock brakes, so i would like pads that preserve the pedal feel and balance of the car currently. I should mention that I am on the stock wheels and tires right now, but am looking to eventually upgrade to staggered MRR M350 wheels, likely with 285/305 MPSSs. As the car is primarily street driven, I would like to keep any brake noise to a minimum.

Thanks for the help!

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[Optimum Performance]

Hey everyone! I'm looking for some advice regarding pads and rotors for my car (GT PP). Here is my situation: I typically only do 2 HPDEs per year, but after watching someone put their car into the barrier at the track due to brake failure, I decided that I should probably put money into making sure my brakes don't fail me before I try to get more out of the engine.

With that said, I just picked up a set of Bear Eradispeed+ 2-piece drilled and slotted rotors for my car. I know people will knock the drilled rotors, but for my budget (they are on sale for BF/CM at CJ Pony Parts) I think they were the best option. Figured they should probably dissipate heat better than the stock rotors, and they're quite a bit lighter too, which is a plus. My question is this: should I break in the new rotors with my current stock pads, or swap out the pads at the same time and break everything in together?

I'm also looking for input as far as pads for my car. My car is a GT PP with about 5,000 miles, and is basically a weekend toy that will do 2 HPDEs per year. I like the performance and feel of the stock brakes, so i would like pads that preserve the pedal feel and balance of the car currently. I should mention that I am on the stock wheels and tires right now, but am looking to eventually upgrade to staggered MRR M350 wheels, likely with 285/305 MPSSs. As the car is primarily street driven, I would like to keep any brake noise to a minimum.

Thanks for the help!

Save the new rotors for the brand of pad you want to run, we strongly suggest G-LOC's ;) OE pad material is not compatible with some compound materials.

You are in a tough situation where you want a dual purpose pad. I run R10's/R8's and they will make a little noise when they warm up. The bite is much higher than OE pads when bedded properly (see pictures) This compound has no issue
Getting into ABS under heavy braking from most speeds with a Square 285 Comp 2 tire, 340 tread wear. P-Zeros will have more grip when warm but they also tend to get greasy on a sun baked track.

If you absolutely can not swap pads and want low noise run an R8/R8 combo. It will still bite good but be more tolerant to street use. If you can stand a little more noise go R10/R8.

If you want you can add a GS-1 Street compound to the front for DD to save the Race compound for the track, several customers do this. The Compounds are fully compatible so no issues there. If will be quiet and low dust.

If you end up with more tire you can move up to R12/R10 but more noise.

This all assumes you a not a former Licensed Comp Driver and are not planning on setting track records in your street car

First Picture Shows Sanded (with 80 Grit Paper) rotor, cleaned of all compound materials.

Second Shows R10 Bedded with same rotor. A nice uniform transfer of pad material that has a dark hue to it.

Third is an OEM Front Pad on the Left vs a G-LOC R10(Orange) on the right. You can see that G-LOC's backing plates are thicker but they also have full pad thickness. This keeps the pad more stable on track, insulates the caliper better from heat etc.

 

[Optimum Performance]

This might be a better picture to illustrate a rotor and pad bedded properly.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Since you don't regularly track your car you should be fine. But so you know BAER makes some of the worst two piece discs on the market next to Wilwood. During hard track use the aluminum piece in the center cannot expand with the iron ring which can cause the ring to crack.

This is because companies like BAER and Wilwood lock the ring and hub together as opposed to Essex AP discs, Girodisc and Racing Brake which having the ring "floating" on the hub.

Price wise 1500 for AP, 1150 for RB and 1000 for Girodisc and I would also rank them in that order

 

[Optimum Performance]

Does Racing Brake actually make a '15 application? When I tried to explain to them that is wasn't the same as a 14 GT500 they got offended and stopped answering my phone calls. That's why we carry Girodisc. GD is hoping to have a new hat design this winter that will work on the rear and offer a true floating design. The Mustang rear is so compact there is not enough to room between the caliper bracket and hub for a traditional floating set up. Our slotted rotors are popular for this very reason, better than nothing.

Edit: looking at their site they sell a 355mm rotor for the 2015 not a 380mm. The GT500 kits go from 380 stock to 355 :shrug: So it appears they do not offer anything for the 2015 Mustang.

 

[Dragster]

Since you don't regularly track your car you should be fine. But so you know BAER makes some of the worst two piece discs on the market next to Wilwood. During hard track use the aluminum piece in the center cannot expand with the iron ring which can cause the ring to crack.

This is because companies like BAER and Wilwood lock the ring and hub together as opposed to Essex AP discs, Girodisc and Racing Brake which having the ring "floating" on the hub.

Price wise 1500 for AP, 1150 for RB and 1000 for Girodisc and I would also rank them in that order

Thanks for the input--I did not know about the floating aspect of the 2 piece rotors. Definitely something I need to consider...

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Does Racing Brake actually make a '15 application? When I tried to explain to them that is wasn't the same as a 14 GT500 they got offended and stopped answering my phone calls. That's why we carry Girodisc. GD is hoping to have a new hat design this winter that will work on the rear and offer a true floating design. The Mustang rear is so compact there is not enough to room between the caliper bracket and hub for a traditional floating set up. Our slotted rotors are popular for this very reason, better than nothing.

Edit: looking at their site they sell a 355mm rotor for the 2015 not a 380mm. The GT500 kits go from 380 stock to 355 :shrug: So it appears they do not offer anything for the 2015 Mustang.

Interesting, could be for the Base GT? Can't remember what size those are.

A slotted one piece disc or even oem blank is better that a poorly designed two piece.

I've spent 10s of thousands on brakes for my past and present track cars. If I didn't have the cash for two piece the one piece slotted or oem would be my pick.

 

[Dragster]

Since you don't regularly track your car you should be fine. But so you know BAER makes some of the worst two piece discs on the market next to Wilwood. During hard track use the aluminum piece in the center cannot expand with the iron ring which can cause the ring to crack.

This is because companies like BAER and Wilwood lock the ring and hub together as opposed to Essex AP discs, Girodisc and Racing Brake which having the ring "floating" on the hub.

Price wise 1500 for AP, 1150 for RB and 1000 for Girodisc and I would also rank them in that order

I noticed that Stoptech also makes 2-piece rotors that they advertise as floating rotors (at least for the fronts). Any thoughts on those? Thanks for the help!

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

I noticed that Stoptech also makes 2-piece rotors that they advertise as floating rotors (at least for the fronts). Any thoughts on those? Thanks for the help!

Those are good too

However Essex AP is my top choice

 

[DivineStrike]

I just want to say I got a sweet deal on my Essex Rotors from Black Friday $1200. I hope some others were able to take advantage of their sales.

 

[Grim12]

I just want to say I got a sweet deal on my Essex Rotors from Black Friday $1200. I hope some others were able to take advantage of their sales.

Looks like Essex still has them for $1198

 

[DivineStrike]

Lol haven't checked since I made my purchase. Good stuff, hope people take advantage of the continued sale

 

[Magnificent Bastard]

You aren't going to find good track and street pads, at least not in the way any trackrat would define "good".

Watch out for drilled rotors, by the way - some race organizations won't let you run with them due to structural integrity issues. They look pretty, but that's about it. Look at any NASA event - NAPA blanks power amateur racing to a huge degree. The pads matter more.

What you could do is go Carbotech. All of their compounds bed-in to rotors the same, which means you can use their track pads for track days and swap to their street pads on the same rotors with no need to worry about bed-in. Awful lot of my NASA friends do that even though Carbotech is not even a NASA sponsor - it's that good.

 

[Optimum Performance]

You aren't going to find good track and street pads, at least not in the way any trackrat would define "good".

Watch out for drilled rotors, by the way - some race organizations won't let you run with them due to structural integrity issues. They look pretty, but that's about it. Look at any NASA event - NAPA blanks power amateur racing to a huge degree. The pads matter more.

What you could do is go Carbotech. All of their compounds bed-in to rotors the same, which means you can use their track pads for track days and swap to their street pads on the same rotors with no need to worry about bed-in. Awful lot of my NASA friends do that even though Carbotech is not even a NASA sponsor - it's that good.

I did a test of drilled rotors at Daytona (a popular brand) because I don't always believe what I read on the internet. They lasted one day and I put blanks on.

The Brain trust from CarboTech left and started G-LOC.

Most of our Customers run a track compound and swap the front to the street compound on their DD. As you mention once the rotors have had a G-LOC compound on them you can swap back and forth without issue or bedding.

 

[Magnificent Bastard]

I did a test of drilled rotors at Daytona (a popular brand) because I don't always believe what I read on the internet. They lasted one day and I put blanks on.

The Brain trust from CarboTech left and started G-LOC.

Most of our Customers run a track compound and swap the front to the street compound on their DD. As you mention once the rotors have had a G-LOC compound on them you can swap back and forth without issue or bedding.

Is that so? Heh, shows I've been out of the game for a bit :-) If G-LOC is where the talent at Carbotech went, then that's where I'd go, too.

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