Oil temps from stock gauge suspect

[Roh92cp]

Thinking more about this since my new engine install I took the liberty of installing a dedicated oil temp gauge this time and T off from the oil pressure sender bung. I've noticed now that since I can watch actual oil temps that the factory gauge is way off and behind actual temps reported by the gauge. I believe the factory center gauge display is theoretical not from an actual temp sensor, likely it's extrapolated from the engine coolant temp. My stock gauge gets into normal range pretty quick and the oil temp sensor I installed has still not moved off 120 degrees. In fact even when the factory gauge gets near halfway in the green zone the other gauge is just starting to move off 120 the lowest point. It takes driving for some time for the gauge I stalled to get to 180 where I would feel safe to hammer on the engine. Point is the stock gauge seems to be showing normal when oil may not be hot enough to sustain hard loads and full throttle under boost. Also if one was to use a higher weight oil is could exacerbate the issue causing premature bearing wear or possible stock OPG failure. I know when I lost my stock OPG the stock gauge was showing normal, but now with my new oil temp gauge I know the distance I drove was not sufficient to get oil up to temps to hammer on it like I did. Just an observation and would encourage anyone with actual data or knowledge to chime in. I installed a Prosport Halo oil temp gauge. I was really impressed with the accuracy of the Prosport halo boost gauge witch I've tested against another mechanical gauge and the Zietronix (very accurate) boost gauge I have running through my NGauge as well. So I figure the temp gauge would be accurate as well.

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[mustang_guy]

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[mustang1]

Anyone want to guess whether the GT500 oil pump gear is billet or not ? Factory supercharged engine making 662hp and 631 lb ft of torque. With a warranty.

 

[Dominant1]

None of these cars have factory billet opg's. The cobra jet cars do but thats a factory race car without a vin #. But the other guy makes a good point about not getting on it hard until your car's oil temp is optimal especially with this motor's 8200 redline! Ive always done this with all my mustangs!

 

[mustang1]

None of these cars have factory billet opg's. The cobra jet cars do but thats a factory race car without a vin #. But the other guy makes a good point about not getting on it hard until your car's oil temp is optimal especially with this motor's 8200 redline! Ive always done this with all my mustangs!

If this is the case, it would seem that the odds of an oil pump failure are very low. Otherwise, having to warranty engine failures would get really expensive. I doubt very many GT500 owners pay much attention to their engine oil temperatures before getting on the gas. And that assumes their oil temp gauge is even accurate. There is only the OP's car and one GT350 (8200 RPM) on here with an oil pump failure. That can easily be attributed to manufacturing defect rather than an inappropriate type of steel. Otherwise, someone could figure out how to make an OPG fail on demand and make a hobby out of getting new engines while their car is under warranty.

 

[rs7337]

i will take my snap on solus ultra home tonight and see how the oil temp compares to center info center, and i can repeat from overnight cold tomorrow morning

 

[pro 5.0]

Anyone want to guess whether the GT500 oil pump gear is billet or not ? Factory supercharged engine making 662hp and 631 lb ft of torque. With a warranty.

The 5.8l Trinity engine has a billet backing plate for the oil pump to prevent deflection, however I believe it has the same powdered metal gears. You should always warm up your car to operating temps before getting into boost or going WOT, but seeing that this is a production car and not everyone is going to heat cycle the motor I highly doubt this would cause the OPG'S to fail as it would be happening all the time, just like putting in the wrong octane fuel it happens.

 

[Roh92cp]

You should always warm up your car to operating temps before getting into boost or going WOT, but seeing that this is a production car and not everyone is going to heat cycle the motor I highly doubt this would cause the OPG'S to fail as it would be happening all the time, just like putting in the wrong octane fuel it happens.

Agreed not saying on a stock motor this will cause engine Or OPG failure, but it can't be good when the stock dummy gauge is telling you the oil Temp is normal when in fact it's not even close and you decide to hammer on it.

 

[Roh92cp]

i will take my snap on solus ultra home tonight and see how the oil temp compares to center info center, and i can repeat from overnight cold tomorrow morning

The center info only gives a range of normal in the green area not a numerical value readout. Also the issue is oil temps rise slower than ECT so it's only in the warmup phase that it will be off.

 

[rs7337]

i get it, but owning a car lot and having to diagnose issues with all makes. i can tell you it takes a long time to build oil temp in these newer cars. i would imagine that green zone is probly 100 degress and up

 

[Roh92cp]

i get it, but owning a car lot and having to diagnose issues with all makes. i can tell you it takes a long time to build oil temp in these newer cars. i would imagine that green zone is probly 100 degress and up

I would agree to me it looks like when it first hits the green my new temp gauge hasn't budged off 120 the lowest point.

 

[mustang1]

I did some more testing today and from a cold 50 degrees it took 5 minutes and 4 miles for my dummy gauge to register normal and my Prossport gauge was just moving off the lowest setting 120. It took another 10 minutes and a total of 12 miles to reach 170 on my ProSport gauge.

I have a short commute and I won't want to wait this long before getting on the gas. My engine probably won't make it to 100k miles before it starts smoking too much and fails a smog test. :headbonk: Less if it gets a S/C

 

[Roh92cp]

I have a short commute and I won't want to wait this long before getting on the gas. My engine probably won't make it to 100k miles before it starts smoking too much and fails a smog test. :headbonk: Less if it gets a S/C

Shit you have a short commute, mines 1.3 miles. I have to drive out of town and come back just to get it warmed up. Ever heard of someone adding extra miles to there commute:headbonk::headbonk:

 

[stang17]

Shit you have a short commute, mines 1.3 miles. I have to drive out of town and come back just to get it warmed up. Ever heard of someone adding extra miles to there commute:headbonk::headbonk:

I literally have a 1.3 mile commute to work as well. I let the car idle for 2 minutes to warm up, then drive maybe 5 to 7 minutes depending on traffic lights, to work. Curious, what kind of gas mileage have you been getting around town. I'm between 8.9mpg and 10.1mpg trying to milk the most out of it. I get 19.5 to 22ishmpg highway depending whether or not I'm doing 80mph or 70mph. I'm starting to consider using flight control to cut down by 20-25% to see if it helps with the city mpg.

 

[rs7337]

you guys both should be changing your oil more often... or taking a long drive of 45 minutes or more once a week. your short commute will not let the oil get above 212 degrees to evaporate off the moisture in the oil... that can cause sludge and oil that cant handle the stresses

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