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OPG FAILED last night, street car.

Barrel

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Jesus, yeah, that's way too much. 8 hours of labor is what you should be paying plus cost of parts.
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JasinEdward

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Would anyone know a shop in the chicagoland area or in IL that can do this install (OPG/CG). I do all the work on my car myself but now a days I have a time constraint due to work. I got quoted $2600 for the job, that's way too high for me and I'd rather take some time off work and do it myself if I can't find a place. Sorry don't mean to hijack the thread lol.
There's a guy on Oakton in Park Ridge called Fairlane Automotive. Ask for Steve...
 

Dennisn

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Drew at dmark performance in Elk Grove
Mike post with dyno tune mp in hampshire
Hans from deans performance. In st Charles

All three I would highly recommend. All have done multiple before. All only work on mustangs.

I have personnel experience with drew and Mike.

Think you have 8-900 in parts. Labor will be under a thousand.
 

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Would anyone know a shop in the chicagoland area or in IL that can do this install (OPG/CG). I do all the work on my car myself but now a days I have a time constraint due to work. I got quoted $2600 for the job, that's way too high for me and I'd rather take some time off work and do it myself if I can't find a place. Sorry don't mean to hijack the thread lol.
were about 5 hours away if you don't have any luck and have done a ton of installs

$760 plus parts
 

Demon Coyote

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Jesus, yeah, that's way too much. 8 hours of labor is what you should be paying plus cost of parts.
Lol I know right I didn't even reply back just came straight here to you guys for help.


There's a guy on Oakton in Park Ridge called Fairlane Automotive. Ask for Steve...
Thanks dude I'll give em a a call and get a quote.


Drew at dmark performance in Elk Grove
Mike post with dyno tune mp in hampshire
Hans from deans performance. In st Charles

All three I would highly recommend. All have done multiple before. All only work on mustangs.

I have personnel experience with drew and Mike.

Think you have 8-900 in parts. Labor will be under a thousand.
Thanks for the info brotha I'll be calling them to get quotes from them I've heard about Mike Post before too.

were about 5 hours away if you don't have any luck and have done a ton of installs

$760 plus parts
Terry, thanks for getting me that info man I'll be calling you first thing tomorrow. I don't mind the 5 hour drive. I'll be purchasing parts from you anyways lol
 

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sigintel

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Agreed!

I am just going to put my 2cents in. If the motor turns over, either by starter or breaker bar, thats great, but relying on a torque spec to determine if the motor is hurt is crazy. You need to pull the oil pan and put eyes on the bearings, that is the only way to know.
Exactly!:amen: No one is suggesting that a certain torque to turn over means bearings are good. Just that they aren't seized:

Turn over torque of 50-60 ftlb for a recently run warm engine means little to nothing.:shrug:

Turn over torque of 300+ for a recently run warm engine means something UNKNOWN is causing drag: locked alternator, locked AC, trashed bearings, motor sat for 3 months cold.:doh:

Try to be objective and rational. Maybe think in terms of actions vs risk in time, money, stress and stake holders. :cheers:

For example: you could tear down the entire engine and inspect every single cam, journal, bearing, ring, piston, etc: but at what risk?:headbonk:

Or you could just check if it turns over, pull pan, valve covers and then change the oil pump and try running if they all look good. Maybe couple hundred bucks for sealant, gears and stuff and your time.:thumbsup: If that doesnt work, you are only out a couple hundred but learn a ton about your motor. You are going to take crap loads of pics and post them here as you pull pan or covers anyway. You have like 20+ peeps here that may share trashed bearing photos with you or comment on what you find. :coolphotos:

Keep in mind, not everything is black and white. Dont take my word, ask guys that have oil starved multiple motors at redline. Sometimes you can change a pump and run the thing with lightly scuffed bearings for 60k more miles. I did that with a 390 in an old Ford pickup. Friend took a running caddy 500 and rebuilt motor only to have the car totaled months later by a garbage truck backing into the street in front of the shop. He sure wished hed skipped the rebuild. I've starved 2 motors, NSX (broke pump:(), Accord (multiple times in a 20 minute period while uhhh erm tracking it:first:). The bearings have some capacity to handle rotating with oil that is not pressurized. Think every time you start your car.

If you are lucky, you only did the equivalent of 3652 cold starts worth of wear in approximately 6 seconds. :headbang:

PS. Disconnect the battery before getting hands near front of engine or fans so there is no way a remote or anyone can trigger the starter or fire the plugs.:eyebulge:
 

Quackfoo

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Is there anything your not cheap on? Lol
It's probably not so much cheap as experienced. Shop that never does them or only does them once in a while will take longer. On the other hand you have a shop that does 2-3 a week for a few years they can probably shave a couple of hours off the install.

It's kind of like when I did my garbage disposal, took me 2 hours because I kept looking at the instructions and double checking things. When I did my brother's it took less than 30 minutes :thumbsup:
 
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I had 6 hours Sunday for a tear down to this point, been working 12 hr shift until Saturday so progress will be slow. At this point I've looked into the oil fill opening and all looks very normal and the smell is not burnt or usual. I also put a torque wrench on it and it does move turn over smoothly, and as long as I pull slowly won't click even when compression and spring pressure is high. I know it doesn't mean much at this point, but if it was burnt it it smell inside and wouldn't turn over with ease.

 

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I killed a motor or two. Never smelled different than the oil or fuel.
 
 




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