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PMAS Intake Systems from UPR Products. TUNE AND NO TUNE INTAKES

Screwdgie

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Been occasionaly skimming through this thread so please forgive me. Am I correct in assuming the only difference between the tune and non tune version is that the non tune version has the MAF that is properly scaled for the larger diameter tube?

Whereas the tune version requires that table to be scaled in the tune? So the non tune version would obviously work without a tune, but with a tune added your tuner won't have to mess with the maf scaling and should run exactly the same?
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PMAS

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Been occasionaly skimming through this thread so please forgive me. Am I correct in assuming the only difference between the tune and non tune version is that the non tune version has the MAF that is properly scaled for the larger diameter tube?

Whereas the tune version requires that table to be scaled in the tune? So the non tune version would obviously work without a tune, but with a tune added your tuner won't have to mess with the maf scaling and should run exactly the same?
Yes, you are exactly correct! :cheers:
 

mustang_guy

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Lol well look into our HPX-F maf when you go turbo. you will need it if you make more than 800WHP anyway :)
http://www.pmas-maf.com/product/hpx-f/
What do you have for mafs that will support two large 6766 twins pushing anywhere from 1300whp (1500 crank) to 1500whp (1800 crank) ? :D

I take it those arent up to that task.
 

PMAS

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What do you have for mafs that will support two large 6766 twins pushing anywhere from 1300whp (1500 crank) to 1500whp (1800 crank) ? :D

I take it those arent up to that task.
I can put custom scaling on anything. What size is the upper IC? 4 inch I hope? you could do it with 3.5 but you will be leaving a lot of power on the table. 1300WHP worth of air in a 3.5" pipe will be moving at over half the speed of sound!.. super restrictive.
 

Ultimateone

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It's amazing how much scrutinizing and questions are asked about an intake, the gains be it slim or something improved will never compare to something like a SC or cams etc etc.

Good luck PMAS, might grab one myself one day but enjoy learning more about your cool system.
 

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I can put custom scaling on anything. What size is the upper IC? 4 inch I hope? you could do it with 3.5 but you will be leaving a lot of power on the table. 1300WHP worth of air in a 3.5" pipe will be moving at over half the speed of sound!.. super restrictive.
Im not there yet. Its a ways out. I have about 47-48g in mods to stick in the car and need to do it in a fashion that im not blowing up any specific parts :lol: don't have enough disposable income to do it all at once. Gotta do it in stages this go around


I havent checked on the size of the piping. It looks like 4 inch but id rather not assume based off pictures only. But since you can do whatever, ill be in touch when the time comes. :cheers:
 

NvrFinished

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It's amazing how much scrutinizing and questions are asked about an intake, the gains be it slim or something improved will never compare to something like a SC or cams etc etc.

Good luck PMAS, might grab one myself one day but enjoy learning more about your cool system.
Man, I'm with you on this. People really get bent out of shape discussing this topic. All for 10 to 25 WHP. PMAS in my opinion has done the best job discussing the engineering behind the concept and how it works. I think it's fugly, but based on the engineering I may be getting this instead of the Steeda.
 

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That is an interesting discussion. If you look at most stock sports or muscle cars using NA setup, the intake designs look similar. A closed air box with a bellow type elbow, sucking air through the grill or radiator area. Now if you look at force induced engines they do use aftermarket looking intakes. Even the gt350 has a Roush CAI looking intake due to high rpm and high flow requirements.

Now lets go back to the NA coyote or similar engine intake setup. I totally understand why they use paper filters. They filter really well and have huge surface contact area due to longer fins. The other advantage is the heat transfer rate is better due to material and fin surface area. Paper filters are also cheap and easy to replace. The air box is a closed design to prevent engine bay heat entering the intake, however, this will only help during traffic or car sitting and idling for some time.

Power wise the engine is max rated at 435 hp at the crank with certian air fuel ratio, and compression parameters. With that in mind and stock engines reliability, probably Ford doesn't need the engine to access more air flow. More air means more fuel to burn or lean combustion, resulting in different emissions and fuel consumption. What my understanding is ecu adjusts the timing to some extend to prevent damage to the internals. Either it pulls timing or advances it for the best drivibility conditions. Maybe intakes like PMAS provides enough max air for the engine that actually doesn't hurt the engine but give a slight edge in air flow around mid to high rpm applications. The sacrifice with these open element intakes are heat and filtration. Most of them do filter 98-99% of the particles, and heat is only a problem if your car is not moving for a period of time. The main qustion becomes, if you can really tell the difference of even a 20 whp on a 3700+ lb car? Thats 0.005 hp per pound.



I'd say another way to compare is whether you can tell a 20 hp gain on a 435 hp engine. That's a 4.6% gain. Actually, it's higher than that because a stock car doesn't make 435 hp at the wheels, it makes that at the crankshaft, and the 20 hp gain is supposed to be at the wheels. My guess is yes, most people could tell the difference.
Interesting points guys. What I'm saying about whether or not X amount of additional power can be felt is that to me it seems like it is just a saying. Like someone somewhere one day decided that nobody can tell the difference of 5 hp on a 400+ hp engine. So he went around saying that and now everyone goes around just repeating it. How do any of us know what someone else can or can't feel. If I was in a 450 hp car, and then got into a 455 hp car, no, I would not be able to feel the difference. But on my own particular car that I drive daily at all speeds in all traffic patterns and at all throttle levels, if something added 5 hp to the wheels, I should be able to tell the difference. Even if it added no hp, you'd feel the better acceleration due to increased throttle response which cannot be measured on a dyno. Plus, a dyno, like I've said many times before, can only measure at WOT. Some changes might not make a difference at WOT, but it might make changes at partial throttle or half throttle. That can definitely be felt because that is where we drive our cars 95% of the time. Not to mention that some performance changes might not add hp or tq, but it'll clear up the engine and make it run smoother or spin more freely. Like a lighter driveshaft with less rotational weight. Some of these guys are stuck in the thought that hp and tq is the end all say all. But hp and tq are only part of the equation. Look at our manual Premium GTs. There is no question that Track mode and Sport mode accelerate better than normal mode. And the different modes do not add a lick of hp. But if someone told you "oh it did nothing, its all in your head", you'd be furious. Same with some of these products. HP and TQ are not the only things that increase performance. I went off on a spiel there and forgot WTF I was even talking about. Sorry guys...
 

NvrFinished

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I went off on a spiel there and forgot WTF I was even talking about. Sorry guys...
Classic! :lol: It's all good, I find these type of discussions interesting. It's the arguing over dyno numbers and whose product is best that gets annoying after a while.
 

PMAS

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Interesting points guys. What I'm saying about whether or not X amount of additional power can be felt is that to me it seems like it is just a saying. Like someone somewhere one day decided that nobody can tell the difference of 5 hp on a 400+ hp engine. So he went around saying that and now everyone goes around just repeating it. How do any of us know what someone else can or can't feel. If I was in a 450 hp car, and then got into a 455 hp car, no, I would not be able to feel the difference. But on my own particular car that I drive daily at all speeds in all traffic patterns and at all throttle levels, if something added 5 hp to the wheels, I should be able to tell the difference. Even if it added no hp, you'd feel the better acceleration due to increased throttle response which cannot be measured on a dyno. Plus, a dyno, like I've said many times before, can only measure at WOT. Some changes might not make a difference at WOT, but it might make changes at partial throttle or half throttle. That can definitely be felt because that is where we drive our cars 95% of the time. Not to mention that some performance changes might not add hp or tq, but it'll clear up the engine and make it run smoother or spin more freely. Like a lighter driveshaft with less rotational weight. Some of these guys are stuck in the thought that hp and tq is the end all say all. But hp and tq are only part of the equation. Look at our manual Premium GTs. There is no question that Track mode and Sport mode accelerate better than normal mode. And the different modes do not add a lick of hp. But if someone told you "oh it did nothing, its all in your head", you'd be furious. Same with some of these products. HP and TQ are not the only things that increase performance. I went off on a spiel there and forgot WTF I was even talking about. Sorry guys...
You got it. Real world experience.. When I put the kit on my personal 13 GT track pack M6 with no tune, it went from accelerating hard from a second gear roll to now breaking the tires loose. That should be felt by anyone. All numbers aside, my car is now faster.
 

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Man, I'm with you on this. People really get bent out of shape discussing this topic. All for 10 to 25 WHP. PMAS in my opinion has done the best job discussing the engineering behind the concept and how it works. I think it's fugly, but based on the engineering I may be getting this instead of the Steeda.
Completely subjective I understand but I actually like the way it looks installed. Uninstalled it's awkward and bloated looking but on the car it looks clean.
 
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Just want to thank everyone who has purchased and is making the swap over to the PMAS intake. Glad we could help get your order's going.
 

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Just installed the CAI and I have to say it does feel like it pulls harder. It doesn't look all that bad, lol.
The instructions need to be worked over a bit, and I was confused with the whole "needing to program the Maf" part of the instructions. Also it would help if there was actually instructions included with the part instead of going online and downloading them.
 

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Have to admit, I purchased this system due, in large part, to the very nice MAF design. Only to find out it now has a stock style MAF in it with the IAT sensor still prone to artificially heat soaking.

Why not update the site to reflect the current product (which is more in line with conventional offerings and sets PMAS apart less than others)
 

Laztug

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What is wrong with your MAF?

I think what you posted is the non tune version of the CAI.
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