Help, Supercharger oil weight!

[Fatty]

Does anybody know what oil weight I should use after my first oil change? I installed the Roush stage 2 supercharger but can't find anything about it. I think 5w20 seems to thin but I could be wrong. Any suggestions and why are appreciated, thanks:shrug:

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[caustin69]

5w20 full synthetic

 

[jasonstang]

5W30 for better high temperature protection.
Your IAT after the supercharger is gonna be pretty high.
If you live in hot climate, I would even go for 5W40.

 

[Jmeo]

By the title I thought you were asking about the oil IN the supercharger

 

[Fatty]

Title is misleading, I mean "Best oil weight if running a supercharger" :headbonk: :frusty:

 

[caustin69]

Here is a good read......It is not a good idea to change oil weight. I have asked Ford engineers this question and always get the same answer.


For high output modular Ford engines including the Coyote, there is a need for an engine oil that is the same viscosity as what Ford recommends from the factory, but is more stable under the heavier shearing loads, and heat from modified engines.

“Unless you’re changing bearing clearances or the oiling system, you should stick with the factory recommended viscosity,” says Speed. So in modified Coyote and modular engines, Driven’s FR20 engine oil offers the benefits of OE recommended viscosity, with better volatility and VI than an off the shelf product.

While some enthusiasts balk at the idea of running lightweight viscosity oils like 5w20 in their engines, the truth is that overhead cam engines rely on those lightweight oils. Unlike a a cam-in-block engine, the camshafts are all the way at the top of the cylinder head, the last place to get oil. This means that when the engine is cold, it’s critical for oil to reach those camshafts as quickly as possible creating the need for a lower viscosity oil.

Changing to a higher viscosity oil can potentially slow down the progress of oil reaching the cams in a timely manner. When you throw in the pressures needed to operate variable valve timing system like on Coyote powered Mustangs, having the proper viscosity is even more critical, since the engine relies on hydraulic pressure from the engine oil to operate.

http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories...s-fr50-and-fr20-oil-for-ford-modular-engines/

 

[Radiation Joe]

Don't ask about weight; ask about quality. There are plenty of 5W-40 weight oils out there that won't protect your engine as well as Redline 5W-20. Try Mobil 1 10W-30 since you're in Florida.

 

[Fatty]

Here is a good read......It is not a good idea to change oil weight. I have asked Ford engineers this question and always get the same answer.


For high output modular Ford engines including the Coyote, there is a need for an engine oil that is the same viscosity as what Ford recommends from the factory, but is more stable under the heavier shearing loads, and heat from modified engines.

“Unless you’re changing bearing clearances or the oiling system, you should stick with the factory recommended viscosity,” says Speed. So in modified Coyote and modular engines, Driven’s FR20 engine oil offers the benefits of OE recommended viscosity, with better volatility and VI than an off the shelf product.

While some enthusiasts balk at the idea of running lightweight viscosity oils like 5w20 in their engines, the truth is that overhead cam engines rely on those lightweight oils. Unlike a a cam-in-block engine, the camshafts are all the way at the top of the cylinder head, the last place to get oil. This means that when the engine is cold, it’s critical for oil to reach those camshafts as quickly as possible creating the need for a lower viscosity oil.

Changing to a higher viscosity oil can potentially slow down the progress of oil reaching the cams in a timely manner. When you throw in the pressures needed to operate variable valve timing system like on Coyote powered Mustangs, having the proper viscosity is even more critical, since the engine relies on hydraulic pressure from the engine oil to operate.

http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories...s-fr50-and-fr20-oil-for-ford-modular-engines/

Thanks for this! Just called Roush and they confirmed that 5w20 is what they send out in there cars from the factory. He also stated that you can use 5w50.

 

[Radiation Joe]

Don't run 5W-50. It wastes power, runs up your oil temperatures and will shear down to a lower grade pretty quickly, anyway. The tons of VI they put in to get that wide viscosity band are not good.

If I was running a 5.0, I'd be running Redline 5W-20. The only reason I recommended the 10W-30 M1 was because it's relatively inexpensive, good quality and easy to find. It has no or almost no VI in it.

 

[Fatty]

Don't run 5W-50. It wastes power, runs up your oil temperatures and will shear down to a lower grade pretty quickly, anyway. The tons of VI they put in to get that wide viscosity band are not good.

If I was running a 5.0, I'd be running Redline 5W-20. The only reason I recommended the 10W-30 M1 was because it's relatively inexpensive, good quality and easy to find. It has no or almost no VI in it.

Great point, 5w20 seems to be the consenses.

 

[Fatty]

5W30 for better high temperature protection.
Your IAT after the supercharger is gonna be pretty high.
If you live in hot climate, I would even go for 5W40.

This makes sense too! South Florida is hot! :shrug:

 

[RitzGT]

I guess I'm an outlier then. Using Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic. Will continue using it (though I've also thought about trying M1 0W-40) after I supercharge the ol' girl later this year.

Best,

 

[Fatty]

I guess I'm an outlier then. Using Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic. Will continue using it (though I've also thought about trying M1 0W-40) after I supercharge the ol' girl later this year.

Best,

Any specific reason for using this?

 

[RitzGT]

Any specific reason for using this?

Partly convenience since I already keep a bunch of T6 around for the Audi A8 and I don't feel that the 5W-20 semi-syn that Ford ships with the coyote is sufficient for my 7.5k oil change intervals (and certainly not after it's supercharged). Possibly overkill and possibly sacrificing a wee bit of gas mileage, but it makes me happy. It resists shear like nobody's business and has a pour point of -42C (not planning on going to the north pole anytime soon, but I do use it as a daily driver in the winter if there's no snow on the ground).

I used it exclusively in my Audi A4's with 1.8T that I had boosted from the stock 200-ish hp to 350hp. The same goes for my A6 2.7T that I goosed from 250hp to about 500hp. Never a problem and the blackstone reports that I periodically did always came back stellar.

Besides, I'm able to get the T6 at about $16/gal from a buddy so I'm loaded for bear. If I ever lose my cheap supply of T6, I'll likely move over to M1 0W-40 instead.

What do you use?

Best,

 

[Fatty]

Partly convenience since I already keep a bunch of T6 around for the Audi A8 and I don't feel that the 5W-20 semi-syn that Ford ships with the coyote is sufficient for my 7.5k oil change intervals (and certainly not after it's supercharged). Possibly overkill and possibly sacrificing a wee bit of gas mileage, but it makes me happy. It resists shear like nobody's business and has a pour point of -42C (not planning on going to the north pole anytime soon, but I do use it as a daily driver in the winter if there's no snow on the ground).

I used it exclusively in my Audi A4's with 1.8T that I had boosted from the stock 200-ish hp to 350hp. The same goes for my A6 2.7T that I goosed from 250hp to about 500hp. Never a problem and the blackstone reports that I periodically did always came back stellar.

Besides, I'm able to get the T6 at about $16/gal from a buddy so I'm loaded for bear. If I ever lose my cheap supply of T6, I'll likely move over to M1 0W-40 instead.

What do you use?



Best,

I use Mobil 1 oil and filters on my Hummer, Acura and Kia. In my Roadking I also use Mobil 1 (15w50) in the crank, and use rotella 5w40 in the primary, which by the way has never been quieter and easier to find neutral.

In the mustang however I have yet to change the oil ( 211.9 miles lol) plus I installed the S/C so just curious to see what others use. I will probably use the motorcraft oil filter.

I have used amsoil but Mobil 1 is easy to get and cheap at Wally World. I will look into the rotella some more too, thanks

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