Larger Oil Filter for the 2.3EB

[lisandra]

Confusing times...oil change is coming up, im currently on rotella and a wix 51348. I am now convinced im switching to amsoil. So filter wise...PL20195, FL400S or wix 51515??
On my current wix psi goes as high as 90+ in the morning!!

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[ronv95]

Confusing times...oil change is coming up, im currently on rotella and a wix 51348. I am now convinced im switching to amsoil. So filter wise...PL20195, FL400S or wix 51515??
On my current wix psi goes as high as 90+ in the morning!!

A different filter isn't going to change the PSI at startup

 

[lisandra]

No no i know, i was just commenting that my psi is also high on start up. What do you recomendfrom the sbove mentioned?

 

[Juben]

No no i know, i was just commenting that my psi is also high on start up. What do you recomendfrom the sbove mentioned?

The oil thing about Amsoil that I don't like is that it's super high in calcium. There's been a lot of research recently about calcium and it's relation to LSPI, and from what the studies are showing, there seems to be a link. Now, does that mean that you'll get LSPI with Amsoil? Maybe not, but I like to mitigate my exposure to any risk like that instead of throwing caution to the wind.

 

[Stangman21]

The oil thing about Amsoil that I don't like is that it's super high in calcium. There's been a lot of research recently about calcium and it's relation to LSPI, and from what the studies are showing, there seems to be a link. Now, does that mean that you'll get LSPI with Amsoil? Maybe not, but I like to mitigate my exposure to any risk like that instead of throwing caution to the wind.

Hey Justin, what kind of engine oil you recommend then?

I'm about to do my first oil change on my ecoboost.
I'm currently sitting on 3,300 miles.

 

[lisandra]

The oil thing about Amsoil that I don't like is that it's super high in calcium. There's been a lot of research recently about calcium and it's relation to LSPI, and from what the studies are showing, there seems to be a link. Now, does that mean that you'll get LSPI with Amsoil? Maybe not, but I like to mitigate my exposure to any risk like that instead of throwing caution to the wind.

I might stick with rotella after all. Hpw bout filters? which of the 3?

 

[Joe_Stang]

Yes justin what oil and filter do you recommend? Also I get free oil changes for life from the dealer but I am going bigger turbo so should I start doing my own if I have to change from 5w-20?

 

[Juben]

I've been using the FL-400S, but I'm gonna give the PO PL20195 next. The 400 is a great filter for the price and can be picked up at Walmart for about $3.50-$4.00.

 

[Juben]

Hey Justin, what kind of engine oil you recommend then?

I'm about to do my first oil change on my ecoboost.
I'm currently sitting on 3,300 miles.

Yes justin what oil and filter do you recommend? Also I get free oil changes for life from the dealer but I am going bigger turbo so should I start doing my own if I have to change from 5w-20?

If you want a super high-quality oil (Group V), I'd highly suggest Red Line. It's the lowest NOACK (6%) I've seen of any 5w30 oil with good levels of zinc and phosphorus while not being super high in calcium like Amsoil. The only negative to Red Line is that it's priced kind of high, but rightfully so.

For a reasonably priced oil that performs extremely well and has tons of great UOAs, I'd suggest Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP). The old formula, Pennzoil Ultra, had a better NOACK (7.2%) but the new PUP is still considered pretty decent at a 9.6% (straight from SOPUS themselves).

Hands down, Red Line is going to be the best from everything I've seen and reviewed, but PUP is a very close 2nd and can often be found for a cheaper price.

I'll make mention of something else I've been looking into. Mobil 1 Extended Performance (EP) is super low in calcium (half of PUP, Rotella, etc., and a 1/3rd of Amsoil), has a NOACK in the high-9 area, and has decent levels of phosphorus and zinc as well. I was poking around on BITOG the other day and came across some virgin oil analysis' (VOA) on there. I'm going to try to dig into that when I have a little more time, but from what I briefly saw, it seemed good. It's supposed to be a primarily Group IV oil (PAO) based oil as well. More on that some other time though.

If you can find Pennzoil Ultra on the shelf anywhere, stock up on it. I lucked up and found a ton of it on clearance and stock up for enough to get me to 90k miles.

 

[tsunami]

I have found two versions of the Purolator PL20195 filter. The cheaper one seems to have standard filter media, the more expensive one is "Synthetic" PL20195. The 'synthetic' one is supposedly better at filtering pure synthetic oil. Anyone have knowledge about the difference between the two versions: quality, filtering capability, etc. The price difference is only a couple of dollars.

 

[jbailer]

I have found two versions of the Purolator PL20195 filter. The cheaper one seems to have standard filter media, the more expensive one is "Synthetic" PL20195. The 'synthetic' one is supposedly better at filtering pure synthetic oil. Anyone have knowledge about the difference between the two versions: quality, filtering capability, etc. The price difference is only a couple of dollars.

The line is the Purolator, PurolatorONE and PurolatorBOSS. Look for the PurolatorONE or BOSS. This link sums it up: http://www.pureoil.com/en/do-it-yourself/oil-filters/oil-filter-selection-guide/

 

[Juben]

I would probably go with the PureONE if I was going to pick one up today. It's been a thoroughly tested oil filter and proved to be a very high-quality and reliable filter. I haven't researched about the PureBOSS yet and I'm usually a little weary of trying newer things until I have done so. I don't think it's necessarily bad or anything, but with new materials and design comes the potential for not actually improving the filter. Do you understand what I'm saying? Sometimes what's good on paper or in theory actually isn't so good in the real world, so that's why I always do some research to see the testing and experiences of others.

 

[Stangman21]

I shared your high regards to Red Line and my Stang crew says, "Motul Oil is the preferred oil" for the Stangs. They went down the line for sure Redline, RP, Amsoil, Motul. But I guess there are other things peeps are concerned with. np.

I keep hearing how Red Line quiets the engine and that was something that concerned me whenever I'm at my local Starbucks drive thru. I could hear my engine and it was clanky noisey! My info dash says my oil is 67% at 3,400 miles. I drive it hard not all the time but I've taken it red line a few times when I broke my engine in under 1k. Not sure if that was recommended. I believe though a good push for things to settle in. These cars were meant to be opened up.

 

[sandpiper]

Dumb question, but does anyone know how, using a different sized filter other than what Ford recommends, effect any warranty claims if there is an engine problem

 

[jbailer]

Dumb question, but does anyone know how, using a different sized filter other than what Ford recommends, effect any warranty claims if there is an engine problem

Not a dumb question. The Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act protects our warranty when modifying our cars. The dealer/Ford would have to prove that the part you substituted caused the problem. So in this case, if you used a smaller oil filter or one that wasn't as good and there was an oil/lube related issue then yes they could deny the warranty. If you used a better oil filter and there was a problem, they couldn't simply say you used the wrong oil filter.

Also, they can't make generic references and say because you put an aftermarket catback exhaust on your car they won't honor your warranty if something happened to the engine. They would have to prove that it was the contributing factor. Of course I'm not a lawyer and can't advise you so take what I'm saying for what it's worth. Consult a lawyer and or read up on it yourself. This is a great link http://www.autoanything.com/popups/MossWarranty.aspx

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