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brake fluid (spin off of another thread)

c_reber

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What about AMSOIL DOT 4?
I've had good luck with Amsoil DOT 4 on my 2013 GT track pack. Though I don't think any of the tracks I ran were extremely hard on brakes (auto club, buttonwillow, willow springs, chuckwalla, LVMS). :shrug:

The good thing is, it's cheap enough to change before every event :)
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Budwise

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ATE DOT4 is cheap and good stuff. Save your money for something else that needs it.
 

apex15stangPP

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Are you getting into the ABS when it's not feeling as good? Or is it related to initial bite?


Norm
Alittle of both, but differently didn't like the initial bite feel. I hate a soft pedal, I count on the brakes big time on this car because of the lack of power. So I need all the stop I can.
 

apex15stangPP

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I hope not
 

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Norm Peterson

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Just trying to come up with a reason that there might be a significant volume of fluid moving, where higher viscosity might slow it down a tad. At zero fluid movement, viscosity would be completely irrelevant, although any compressibility would still matter.


Norm
 

Anthony@HTM

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I've ran every flavor of Motul, ATE, Project MU and Castrol SRF.

Nothing has come close to Torque RT700. It's been 6 trackdays since I've bled the fluid. Still has a rock solid pedal feel with zero fade.

I remember the days of Motul 660 and bleeding hat garbage after every event.
 
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grue

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Torque is a list i've been putting together. that and AP Racing. so what's your complaint about motul? that it is not as long lived as the torque?

could it be that you're just not boiling your fluid whereas you hit that threshold in the other fluids you've tried?

a couple other base level questions that go together:

i understanding that brake fluid in general is not good for anything but being inside calipers! it can mess things up. would torque be even worse than motul or the other way around or others?

since brake fluid is such nasty stuff, does it inherently wear down internal components from calipers up to the plastic tank it sits in? is one worse than other...

thanks,
 

MCJUNKMAN

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I don't know if this helps you or if its even that great of an indicator about how hard the fluid would be on parts, but the RT700 is listed as a pH of 7.3 which is much less acidic than endless RF-650 and motul 660. Therefore I doubt it would be any harder on brake internals than most good DOT 4s.

I used this on their site to compare.
http://torquebrakefluid.com/compare_torque_rt700_to_other_brake_fluids.html

I know some of the Porsche guys swear by the endless though and have no issues so....:shrug:
 

mSTANG_1

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Would anyone happen to know if the 2015 Ecoboost without Brembo brakes uses DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid?
 

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NightmareMoon

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I miss the old days of ATE blue and gold......sigh
no kidding. Bleeding one clear fluid for another is an exercise in guesswork.

Motul 600 worked fine at my last track event, but I won't say the pedal felt anything other than spongy under ABS. I may switch back to some factory fluid for the next few autox events to see if it actually does firm up the pedal or not.
 

Optimum Performance

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no kidding. Bleeding one clear fluid for another is an exercise in guesswork.

Motul 600 worked fine at my last track event, but I won't say the pedal felt anything other than spongy under ABS. I may switch back to some factory fluid for the next few autox events to see if it actually does firm up the pedal or not.
The factory fuid is low viscosity and most of the race fluids are not. It's why we have yet to try anything but Motorcraft Dot4LV. I think it slows down the reaction time of abs/tc but not sure. It shouldn't matter if its warm outside.

Race fluids with higher dry temp ratings are also more prone to moisture absorbtion. The factory stuff is pretty high temp (500ish F) With PP brakes it takes pretty intentional late braking to get it to fade. Of course it depends on the track.
 

Anthony@HTM

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No Torque is not any harder on components than any othe fluid.

The issues I had with Motul is that it would fade very quickly, I had it actually boil on me.

I remember it very well. I was on my 3rd session of the day, I just bled the brakes since the fluid was already fading. So it was fresh.

As I come out of last corner before the main straight I tap the brakes and the pedal hits the floor.

That straight puts me at 120+, if I didn't tap my brakes I would have been a goner.

I pull into the pits and about 10 minutes later I have brake feel again but it is mushy.

I ended up researching fluid like crazy and narrowed it down to Castrol SRF and Torque.

I didn't use SRF because of what I read about it being a fully synthetic brake fluid. Which means you are not suppose to mix it with a standard dot4.

I went with Torque and never looked back. A year later I started selling it.
Torque is a list i've been putting together. that and AP Racing. so what's your complaint about motul? that it is not as long lived as the torque?

could it be that you're just not boiling your fluid whereas you hit that threshold in the other fluids you've tried?

a couple other base level questions that go together:

i understanding that brake fluid in general is not good for anything but being inside calipers! it can mess things up. would torque be even worse than motul or the other way around or others?

since brake fluid is such nasty stuff, does it inherently wear down internal components from calipers up to the plastic tank it sits in? is one worse than other...

thanks,
 

Optimum Performance

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More on this, the factory fluid meets a newer ISO Standard, Class 6. It is also designed for materials used in the modern brake systems...which when you look at some fluids they tell you don't use in systems with 'X' material. How do we know what's used for materials. The only fluid I found that meets this Ford Spec/ISO etc is Pentosin. I'm pretty sure they are making it for Ford because it has the exact same flash point. Its rated for 509F.
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