Aftermarket Heated Seat Power Source

[Godspeed302]

I threw in some leather takeoff covers and a couple of heated seat kits on my '15 V6. I'm wondering where to take power from for these though. I've got a fusetap I can plug in, but I'm already using fuse 36 for my radar detector. The kits use only a 10A inline fuse, so I don't think they're drawing too much from anything, any ideas on another fuse location I could use instead of 36? I'd like keyed/switched power so these will turn off with the car.

Joel

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[pumxee]

How much did the heated seat kit cost you mate?

Subbed

 

[Godspeed302]

$50 from amazon, with pretty good reviews!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D2LIRG?keywords=heated%20seat%20kit&qid=1456860916&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

 

[Godspeed302]

Bump for fuse box keyed power info? Is this just unknown at the moment?

 

[OEMRadio]

You need to build a relay .. Run at least 10 gauge wire from the battery to a relay and only use the ignition to turn the relay on.. You will cause issues trying to power seat heaters from any ignition circuit alone.. As most all are low current .. Even the carbon seat heaters can draw 20 or more amps and if you do both sides.. And have them on at the same time.. You do the math..

 

[pumxee]

You need to build a relay .. Run at least 10 gauge wire from the battery to a relay and only use the ignition to turn the relay on.. You will cause issues trying to power seat heaters from any ignition circuit alone.. As most all are low current .. Even the carbon seat heaters can draw 20 or more amps and if you do both sides.. And have them on at the same time.. You do the math..

Could you elaborate on this a bit more. I have a kit as well and will be doing an install. The local places in Calgary I have been speaking with never mentioned building a relay. And the instructions dont mention that either.

 

[OEMRadio]

Could you elaborate on this a bit more. I have a kit as well and will be doing an install. The local places in Calgary I have been speaking with never mentioned building a relay. And the instructions dont mention that either.

Sure.. it is very important to do this.. most shops will not build a relay.. and that is a HUGE mistake.. like burn your electrical system up mistake.. and they will say "We've done a hundred this way" and they just haven't had one light up on them yet

Cars today mostly have can bus that tells modules what to do.. they all have a constant power running to them and the can bus basically tells the module to turn on the internal relay. even the radio in a new mustang .. there in no more ignition wire there.. just a constant power and can bus activation..

If you were to take your seat heaters and run them to a circuit that is active in ignition mode it is not going to be capable of suppling enough current to feed what already exists on that circuit plus the addition of something like a seat heater.. adding low current items such as a mirror or radar.. thats different.. but to add 25 amp draw.. you'll burn the BCM..

Basically a relay has a coil (85 & 86) and a normally open and normally closed option(87 would be the input.. it is the common).. what you would do is the coil of the relay would have one side grounded and the other would go to your active in ignition circuit of the car.. it takes almost nothing at all to activate a relay coil.. and the other relay prongs you would have the common post be your input from the battery.. and the #30 position go out to the power of the seat heater..

Essentially what you're doing is creating a new ignition circuit that is safe and reliable and doesn't put more stress on the existing circuits.. it also allows for you to add other items.. such as if you want a radar.. or amp.. its a circuit you know you can go to and it be safe..

It is the best idea for modern cars.. if you're someone that ads things.. you should create this extra circuit.. you won't have voltage drop issues and worry about a dealer seeing you have tied into a circuit..

(Just a note.. the relay coil 85 & 86 are not positive and negative.. you can ground either or power either.. it will work either way.. essentially like a light bulb... it will work as long as one side is 12v and the other is ground.. but Ill just give an easy to follow plan

85 - Ignition in from car - can be low current.. you can diode this to be safe... because it will bleed ground over from the ground side..
86 - Ground
87 - Input from min 10 gauge wire from battery fused to 30 amp
30 - this would go out to the power of the seat heater

 

[pumxee]

Sure.. it is very important to do this.. most shops will not build a relay.. and that is a HUGE mistake.. like burn your electrical system up mistake.. and they will say "We've done a hundred this way" and they just haven't had one light up on them yet

Cars today mostly have can bus that tells modules what to do.. they all have a constant power running to them and the can bus basically tells the module to turn on the internal relay. even the radio in a new mustang .. there in no more ignition wire there.. just a constant power and can bus activation..

If you were to take your seat heaters and run them to a circuit that is active in ignition mode it is not going to be capable of suppling enough current to feed what already exists on that circuit plus the addition of something like a seat heater.. adding low current items such as a mirror or radar.. thats different.. but to add 25 amp draw.. you'll burn the BCM..

Basically a relay has a coil (85 & 86) and a normally open and normally closed option(87 would be the input.. it is the common).. what you would do is the coil of the relay would have one side grounded and the other would go to your active in ignition circuit of the car.. it takes almost nothing at all to activate a relay coil.. and the other relay prongs you would have the common post be your input from the battery.. and the #30 position go out to the power of the seat heater..

Essentially what you're doing is creating a new ignition circuit that is safe and reliable and doesn't put more stress on the existing circuits.. it also allows for you to add other items.. such as if you want a radar.. or amp.. its a circuit you know you can go to and it be safe..

It is the best idea for modern cars.. if you're someone that ads things.. you should create this extra circuit.. you won't have voltage drop issues and worry about a dealer seeing you have tied into a circuit..

(Just a note.. the relay coil 85 & 86 are not positive and negative.. you can ground either or power either.. it will work either way.. essentially like a light bulb... it will work as long as one side is 12v and the other is ground.. but Ill just give an easy to follow plan

85 - Ignition in from car - can be low current.. you can diode this to be safe... because it will bleed ground over from the ground side..
86 - Ground
87 - Input from min 10 gauge wire from battery fused to 30 amp
30 - this would go out to the power of the seat heater

Sounds pretty intense mate! I appreciate the write up but most of that kind of flew over my head. Is there like a youtube video available online you know of or would recommend to create it?

 

[OEMRadio]

Sounds pretty intense mate! I appreciate the write up but most of that kind of flew over my head. Is there like a youtube video available online you know of or would recommend to create it?

I dont.. but basically run a wire from the battery to the inside of the car.. like you would an amp.. terminate it to the relay.. and hook the rest up .. I will try and draw something up.. I am not much on doing videos..

 

[Godspeed302]

Well, each side of the headed seat kit has an inline 10A fuse. The harness has relays, and terminates with a red and black wire on each side to hook up. Definitely not 10GA. The instructions straight up tell you to go to the interior fuse panel. Not saying this is right, but it is what it is.

One side is hooked up and working, the other side keeps blowing the inline fuse on the high setting. Looks like I got a faulty set, amazon is sending me another one. We'll see if I try/can get both working this way.

The "can bus" makes sense, because people have had a hell of a time finding a switched fuse besides 36. I hooked my detector to that one and I guess that's all I will do. I think my fix down the line will be to run my 0 gauge amp wire to a distribution block and feed extra interior circuits with that.

Good times.:frusty::cheers:

 

[OEMRadio]

Well, each side of the headed seat kit has an inline 10A fuse. The harness has relays, and terminates with a red and black wire on each side to hook up. Definitely not 10GA. The instructions straight up tell you to go to the interior fuse panel. Not saying this is right, but it is what it is.

One side is hooked up and working, the other side keeps blowing the inline fuse on the high setting. Looks like I got a faulty set, amazon is sending me another one. We'll see if I try/can get both working this way.

The "can bus" makes sense, because people have had a hell of a time finding a switched fuse besides 36. I hooked my detector to that one and I guess that's all I will do. I think my fix down the line will be to run my 0 gauge amp wire to a distribution block and feed extra interior circuits with that.

Good times.:frusty::cheers:

Like I say... its a safety measure.. the fact they fuse it at 10 amps you have to think.. what if both sides are on at full tilt.. fuses are designed not to blow at 10 amps.. they are meant to operate at that amperage.. so you could have 20 amps of current plus .. if you do the math of what is acceptable at that rating..

The old days of cars having nice size wires at the ignition column.. you could possibly get away with running straight to that... but try and add that current too whats in cars today.. not happening.. I have been doing car dealer business for years.. and I have seen cars go up from lack of fusing and wire size not being adequate for the needs..

Fuse blowing is also possible from the fact that the wire is too small..

But if you feel it is safe to keep it at the fuse panel.. thats up to you.. there was a question on here I answered.. I have always done things one way.. the right and best I know of.. so to go to the fuse panel.. sounds good.. just isn't the best way.. instructions that you have are not specific to your car and do not take into account how cars are different and have changed.

Your car... do as you feel..

 

[Godspeed302]

Not saying I will keep it installed like that... I'm just trying to get it working temporarily in order to confirm both heater kits work. I agree with you, the correct way is to run a wire from the battery under hood, but that's a fight for another day.

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