Anyone good with car electrics?

[Ian whu]

[MENTION=8914]Big_G[/MENTION] might have more success at looking for a way through bulkhead, his engine not as big

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[Big_G]

[MENTION=8914]Big_G[/MENTION] might have more success at looking for a way through bulkhead, his engine not as big

Can have a party in my engine bay

 

[Ian whu]

Didn't mean that, the way it sounded.
[MENTION=8914]Big_G[/MENTION] has more room in his engine bay

 

[Stark]

Found this link and thought the fuses mentioned might help you boys http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31560

 

[shivatastic]

I have hardwired my dashcam (an e-prance model) to my wing mirror fuse (fuse 3 I think).

The e-prance has a battery and so can record long after I have parked up and just starts up with the car if it runs out.

It's not perfect but I only really want the cam active when I am driving and etc so shouldn't be too big an issue for me.

 

[Big_G]

Found this link and thought the fuses mentioned might help you boys http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31560

Thats the link i followed to install it, doesn't work unfortunately. There must be something different with the UK cars electrics over the USA, the fuses dont seem to have the same functionality. Fuse 2 (constant) & Fuse 23 (acc) no joy.
Ian also tried numerous other fuses with the same results.

 

[Stark]

This is a list of the fuses in the car http://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...tleSelected=G1742171&topicHRef=G1750159&div=f

Now looking at this, would the following not be constant power due to the operation:

18 - Intrusion sensor module?

Surely it's got to have power on when you leave the car parked up otherwise how would it detect anything.

Other than that, a connection direct on the battery is looking more "positive" (I'll get my coat)

 

[stiggy]

How many times do I have to say chaps - you are failing to take into account the SJB!

The only safe/reliable way of taking power is a fused link direct from the battery.

Sorry if I sound like a broken record, but 7 years of S197 ownership taught me that unless you really know what you're doing with CAN-BUS electrics, keep it simple.

 

[Ian whu]

How are our American cousins getting them working then?

 

[shivatastic]

How many times do I have to say chaps - you are failing to take into account the SJB!

The only safe/reliable way of taking power is a fused link direct from the battery.

Sorry if I sound like a broken record, but 7 years of S197 ownership taught me that unless you really know what you're doing with CAN-BUS electrics, keep it simple.

SJB issues were blown out of all proportion by a few S197 owners who had dodgy light setups on their SVA conversion, because there was no backup from Ford or a way of sorting it cheaply for them. I had two S197's both with conversions over the course of 4 years and not one of them suffered from SJB issues, despite other owners proclaiming that LPG, new head unit, fuse tapping for cameras etc would blow my car up. All of which I carried out on my V6 and then later on my GT500 (except for the LPG conversion).

I can sympathise with people who had SJB issues but there is a big difference between a dodgy light upgrade which is drawing a lot more power than the SJB is used to seeing than a dashcam running off electric mirrors. I am quite happy to have it running and am happy to risk it though just incase ;)


Using fuse taps is an approved way of fitting cameras by many professional camera fitting companies, especially over in the States, these guys have been fitting cameras of 1000's of CAN-BUS cars for years, so if there was even the tiny possibility of it blowing a SJB they would not be doing it, especially in litigation central (USA).

 

[quick duck]

Hey there, just been reading up on it all, and I would suspect Fuse 1 may be an option to try. Its 10A, and supposed to be for your interior lighting.

Now on the CAN BUS issues, yes there can be problems based on how the SJB fuses are programmed. In some cars they will regulate how many amps get used for a particular function. e.g. a particular globe has two functions, and the amp level changes.
So is it possible Ford programmed the fuses to be 'Power On' differently for global? Well anything is possible.
Ok, so the CAN BUS is separate wiring, its carries data not electricity (laymens explanation)

So why do I think Fuse 1 - we all know that every car can have their interior lights overridden after ACC Off or ignition off/timers/doors open. Also the low amp draw of the dashcams should not be too much, even if all the interior lights are on. So it will depend on the dashcam amp needs.

hope that helps!

 

[Ian whu]

i think ive tried every fuse,
not number one though, because cant get two fuse taps next to each other

 

[quick duck]

i think ive tried every fuse,
not number one though, because cant get two fuse taps next to each other

Try using 16 as the secondary, it's down as a 15A for decklid release. Ample space for a fuse tap also, the 17 & 18 fuses are not ones I would want to add anything to in case of any issues with added hardware.

avoid fuses for any Gateway or Body modules - those are specifically for CAN BUS and maybe what caused all the previous issues.

 

[Big_G]

Ok so trying to avoid going direct to battery still (I know @stiggy will have another rant ;) ), reasons being
a) i don't know any autoelectricians
b) I don't know any autoelectricians who know this car
c) I can't see a clear way through the firewall without potentially removing things that i don't want to break
d) I don't trust anyone messing with my car
e) this DOES work in the american version of the car

Which fuses are being suggested for constant power & acc now?

 

[quick duck]

Fuse 1 for constant power - Fuse is for interior lighting, thinking the cabin lights that flatten batteries must give constant power.

Fuse 16 for acc - its the decklid release so unlikely will ever use 15A by itself.

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