Which Oil Filter? FL-500S or FRPP FL-820?

[HoosierDaddy]

In searching for alternative filters, most brands let you look up their recommended filter by year/model/engine which just gets you the equivalent for what the owners manual says. Since none of the better options discussed in this thread are what Ford recommends in the owners manual how do you find another brand's equivalent? RP for example or Purolator (for their new synthetic line).

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[michail71]

There are web sites out there to list filter equivalents.

I took a look at the Mobile 1 version of the FL-820 but it was actually smaller than the FL-500S equivalent.

 

[MustangGuy]

So Rock Auto lists a Motorcraft FL-820S filter for $3.44. It says the OEM equivalent part number is FL820. Does anyone know if this is the equal to the Ford Racing FL820 filter? They also have the FL-500S filter at $53.79 for a case (shipped) in case anyone wants to know.

 

[Joe 5.0]

So Rock Auto lists a Motorcraft FL-820S filter for $3.44. It says the OEM equivalent part number is FL820. Does anyone know if this is the equal to the Ford Racing FL820 filter? They also have the FL-500S filter at $53.79 for a case (shipped) in case anyone wants to know.

After a quick search on amazon, the Motorcraft FL-820S filter looks exactly like the FL500S filter. I think the Ford Racing filter might be a separate product.

 

[SolarFlare]

might be time for upgrade

 

[BmacIL]

After a quick search on amazon, the Motorcraft FL-820S filter looks exactly like the FL500S filter. I think the Ford Racing filter might be a separate product.

The FL500S is actually a newer filter designed to replace the FL820S. The FL820 is indeed a different filter with very different specifications.

 

[TheLion70x77]

See the M-6731-FL820 spec straight from Ford Performance for your viewing pleasure.

Just for reference the surface area given for the FP FL820 is actually 283 square inches, not 250. And it's rated for 99% efficiency at 20 microns multi-pass. According to Ford Performance it out performs the Fl-500S in flow, filtration efficiency and burst while also featuring the same bypass style as OE and a silicone ADBV. Bypass setting is no different than all the after market replacements for the FL-500S from M1, Amsoil, Wix etc. They all bypass around 17-22 PSI, not 8 PSI like the FL-500S. No need to bypass if the filter is flowing properly. It's a safety mechanism just in case the filter element becomes overly restrictive to ensure oil flow at what ever RPM your at. If it's going into bypass, your element isn't flowing enough oil!

It also bypasses through the clean side like the FL-500S. All of the after market filters bypass at the top end of the can, passing oil across the dirty side of the filter media. I don't think you can beat the FP FL820 in overall quality and features. Sure you can find filters that might filter a bit better in terms of micron size due to a higher end media, but the OE FL-500S is only rated for 95% at 30 microns...99% at 20 is a substantial upgrade while also simultaneously increasing flow and capacity and without loosing the very specific OE features. You have to look at the filter as a whole system, not just one feature or specification.

 

[Schwerin]

See the M-6731-FL820 spec straight from Ford Performance for your viewing pleasure.

Just for reference the surface area given for the FP FL820 is actually 283 square inches, not 250. And it's rated for 99% efficiency at 20 microns multi-pass. According to Ford Performance it out performs the Fl-500S in flow, filtration efficiency and burst while also featuring the same bypass style as OE and a silicone ADBV. Bypass setting is no different than all the after market replacements for the FL-500S from M1, Amsoil, Wix etc. They all bypass around 17-22 PSI, not 8 PSI like the FL-500S. No need to bypass if the filter is flowing properly. It's a safety mechanism just in case the filter element becomes overly restrictive to ensure oil flow at what ever RPM your at. If it's going into bypass, your element isn't flowing enough oil!

It also bypasses through the clean side like the FL-500S. All of the after market filters bypass at the top end of the can, passing oil across the dirty side of the filter media. I don't think you can beat the FP FL820 in overall quality and features. Sure you can find filters that might filter a bit better in terms of micron size due to a higher end media, but the OE FL-500S is only rated for 95% at 30 microns...99% at 20 is a substantial upgrade while also simultaneously increasing flow and capacity and without loosing the very specific OE features. You have to look at the filter as a whole system, not just one feature or specification.

Not sure what you mean by "aftermarket" Motorcraft filters are mostly just rebranded Purolators. Also the FL-500S has a 17PSI bypass per the Product Engineers at Purolator. If it was 8PSI I would not want to run an 820 as there would be a reason Ford spec'd 8PSI and not kept the higher spec.

 

[TheLion70x77]

I mean the direct fit OE replacements from M1, Amsoil, Wix etc. Aka their versions of the FL-500S you would find when finding a cross reference. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[Schwerin]

I mean the direct fit OE replacements from M1, Amsoil, Wix etc. Aka their versions of the FL-500S you would find when finding a cross reference. Hopefully that makes sense.

Actually it look slike Champion/Wix took over making the Motorcraft filters in the last few years.

On a Side note Ford Performance states: FL-820 can be used in many FL-500 applications.

 

[TheLion70x77]

It's a good filter. It's probably the best balance of overall function of any filter out there for Ford modular V8 applications. Most of the other options have some big trade offs and honestly they aren't design for track type use. They are more intended for street use. For track / high performance applications you need to have good flow AND good filtration. FL820 does well at both and also boasts an increased particulate capacity over OE, with the one trade off being it's raw physical size but at a similar cost to the more street oriented after market offerings.

I'm switching over next oil change as I've been running the OE FL-500S, but see lots of high RPM. I think it's worth the cost of admission for the higher flow, higher capacity and better particular removal, especially on a car that's frequently driven hard and what I know of engine wear vs. particulate size. The more of and smaller the debris you can remove, the lower the wear.

BTW, the higher flow ratings won't give you better oil flow in the 5.0. With a positive displacement pump, your flow rates will be the same regardless of filter. But your pressure losses will be lower. Aka more power to the wheels. Although it would likely be very small, maybe a fraction of a HP to at most a HP or two. But still an improvement.

 

[Lmckay87]

I might run these Ford Performance FL820 filters...the specs do show it is a "better" filter. Especially interested in the increased filter media surface area (250 sq inches). I'm sure the differential pressure across the filter is within specs of the stock oil pump....ie this filter won't cause any issues.

But is this filter really necessary? Would any Ford service garages have an issue with it and try to deny a warranty to an oil related issue? Probably not.

I'd stick with the recommended 5w-20 weight oil.
5w-50 would just give Ford a reason to deny a warranty claim as it is not the required spec the owners manual calls for.

Every car I've owned, the internet forums second guess the recommended oil weight with zero data to back up the claim...ie Blackstone oil reports that show 5w-20 isn't protecting the engine as well as 5w-50 does.
I'd even suggest that the thicker 5w-50 allows for more engine wear during cold start ups (where most engine damage occurs) due to it being so much thicker the oil pump doesn't get the oil to the vital engine parts as quickly.

In the end, both oil weights do the job...5w-50 just reduces your mpgs more due to the increased parasitic drag due to it being so much thicker.

Just a friendly correction here so we don't confuse anyone. The "W" in oil types does not mean "Weight." This is a common misconception. The "W" means the "Winter" viscosity of the oil (Or a cold start). Meaning 5w-20 and 5w-50 are the exact same viscosity during cold starts and they will protect the same during a cold start. 5w-50 will increase in viscosity (Thickness) as it warms more so than 5w-20 will, theoretically, protecting engine components better at the cost of additional parasitic drag.

 

[CrashOverride]

In searching for alternative filters, most brands let you look up their recommended filter by year/model/engine which just gets you the equivalent for what the owners manual says. Since none of the better options discussed in this thread are what Ford recommends in the owners manual how do you find another brand's equivalent? RP for example or Purolator (for their new synthetic line).

Wix filters has an awesome lookup tool. It also tells you a lot more details than simply "It will fit"

 

[BmacIL]

Just a friendly correction here so we don't confuse anyone. The "W" in oil types does not mean "Weight." This is a common misconception. The "W" means the "Winter" viscosity of the oil (Or a cold start). Meaning 5w-20 and 5w-50 are the exact same viscosity during cold starts and they will protect the same during a cold start. 5w-50 will increase in viscosity (Thickness) as it warms more so than 5w-20 will, theoretically, protecting engine components better at the cost of additional parasitic drag.

You have that backwards. Oil drastically decreases its viscosity as it warms, not increases.

Both oils have a rated SAE 5 weight for cold temperatures, meaning that they have a maximum cold cranking viscosity of 6600 mPA*s at -30 C. There is a range that still classifies as 5W before becoming 0W, usually down to about 5000 mPA*s at -30 C. The additives to make a multigrade oil with a large spread (like 5W50) often cause it to shear down quickly and lose its high temp viscosity.

 

[EFI]

Just a friendly correction here so we don't confuse anyone. The "W" in oil types does not mean "Weight." This is a common misconception. The "W" means the "Winter" viscosity of the oil (Or a cold start). Meaning 5w-20 and 5w-50 are the exact same viscosity during cold starts and they will protect the same during a cold start. 5w-50 will increase in viscosity (Thickness) as it warms more so than 5w-20 will, theoretically, protecting engine components better at the cost of additional parasitic drag.

Not only do you have it backwards as Bmac mentioned, but you would be incorrect to say that a 5w20 and a 5w50 have the same exact viscosity during cold startups. Yes 5w means the weight when cold in the winter, but oil manufacturers need different formulations to get different weights. While not necessarily big, there is definitely a viscosity difference at cold startup of a 5w20 and 5w50. Look at some of the specs of various oils that have both and it will list a cold and warm viscosity level.

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