Went to the Strip with my Ecoboost...

[Gst95dsm]

Great driving with the stock tires! I think you're actually one of the fastest manual cars on stock tires I've heard about. Your MPH is on par also, but get with that E30 tune and you'll be seeing 110+ and it will feel like a different car.

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[PRG3k]

Hey all,

I went out to MIR on Sunday (10/30/16) and made 3 passes during test and tune.

Here is my setup:

2016 Ecoboost Manual -- Base w/ Perf pack only.

- cobb turboback
- Tune+ WGA
- Denso Plugs
- CPE FMIC
- JLT CAI
- 93 oct Tune+ tune

Stock tires, stock pressure.

The DA was between 1000-1500 yesterday I believe.

The best I could muster was a 13.2 at 104.6.

60 ft was 1.89.

Flat foot shifted 1-2 and 2-3 3-4 was not flat foot. Shifting at just about redline.

After reading people being in the upper 100s with tune only, I am feeling a bit disappointed.

I am a decent driver and went 11.97 at 119 in my 2011 5.0 a couple years back with only tune, CAI and catless h pipe.

Any thoughts?

For reference my friend who was with me, with a CAI and catback only focus ST ran a best of 99 MPH.

I just went 13.02 @ 108 on E30 (completely stock exhaust setup though). So those times are actually pretty good for stock tires and pump gas/manual transmission.

Were you engaging launch control for your runs? Either way, what were you launching at?

1.9 is about right for manual transmission cars with stock tires. I've cut a tenth off of that with 275's in the back so far.

Like Adam said, throw that intake box back on and you could be sniffing 12's.

 

[turboph1sh]

Are you sure Flat Foot Shifting is turned on on the tune? Mine wasn't and it made a huge difference in ET and MPH

Mine is NOT turned on. When I flat foot the revs continue to build until the clutch is released.

Is this a feature that can be turned on thru the cobb AP or is it within the tune file?

 

[turboph1sh]

I just went 13.02 @ 108 on E30 (completely stock exhaust setup though). So those times are actually pretty good for stock tires and pump gas/manual transmission.

Were you engaging launch control for your runs? Either way, what were you launching at?

1.9 is about right for manual transmission cars with stock tires. I've cut a tenth off of that with 275's in the back so far.

Like Adam said, throw that intake box back on and you could be sniffing 12's.

I think adam has my launch control set at around 4k, which is probably ideal for sticky tires, but I didn't use it due to being on street tires.

for the 13.2 run, I just blipped the throttle to no more than 3k (I am not sure because i was watching the tree when i launched, but i knew to keep it lowish) and spun a smidge but hooked thru 1st. The other runs, I blew away the tires or flat footed too late and hit a fuel cut or something.

I probably wont swap intakes due to having just the single tune and also I like the sounds coming from the intake.

However, I do have an E85 station about 2 miles down the road from me, so who knows. I guess I just have to be convinced that mixing fuels is something I can be comfortable with.

 

[turboph1sh]

Just for fun here's the video of me at MIR doing the 11.97 in my 2011 5.0.

[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]IZGUoEoZOm8[/MEDIA]"]

 

[TheLion]

Sounds like a combination of issues. Think about what Adam said, 0.1 to 0.2 off your time switching back to the stock intake. Add to that better launch and shifting techniques which can easily take another 0.1 to 0.3 off your time in addition to the above.

Worst case your 13 flat, best case your around mid 12's...what you have is a stack up of inefficiencies.

Another example is the Livernois auto car used when they first started tuning. They ran a 12.67 with a bone stock auto on 20" DR's. Next time out they ran the same car, same tune, but used light weight 17" DR's and removed the front seat. Just that weight reduction between the un-sprung mass and lower vehicle weight pushed them down to 12.19 (I think they may have removed the cat back exhaust too, but left in stock down pipe to lower weight as well)!

You could also run lighter wheels which may take off another 0.1 to 0.2 on your time. It all adds up. There's two ways to get there, one is to keep pushing more power, but at some point that's not practical or safe for the car. I personally will not use blended fuels, they simply aren't commonly available and for me highly impractical and risky (due to human error). I am building a pump gas car, so 93 is the best I can use that's widely available, seems like you have similar goals, a practical street car.

The other way is to focus on optimizing all of the areas you can, weight, power / efficiency and technique. That was the whole point of my TST 2.3L Optimization thread, which focused on all of the optimizations needed to make consistent and reliable power under a variety of conditions.

That's what I've been doing, is focusing on every detail I can for going fast, from break in processes, to gearing, to making consistent, optimal and safe power, getting used to the car, practicing launches when I can safely, changing feedback such as the clutch pedal feel, shifters etc...next is weight reduction of un-sprung mass by using a set of lightweight wheels.

The factory 18x8's are undoubtedly the lightest of the factory wheel options, but I think a light weight set of 19's are still lighter or same weight but with better traction. You have different tires also have different weights. I was just looking at a set of all seasons to replace the F1's next year as I doubt the ill last more than 20~30k (I'll run 19's in summer), two tires from two mfg's, same sizes, have a difference of 3lbs per tire in weight! That's 12lbs to get rolling just from tire selection.

Also try running with a 1/4 to 1/2 tank. Less fuel = less weight = faster time.

 

[turboph1sh]

Sounds like a combination of issues. Think about what Adam said, 0.1 to 0.2 off your time switching back to the stock intake. Add to that better launch and shifting techniques which can easily take another 0.1 to 0.3 off your time in addition to the above.

Worst case your 13 flat, best case your around mid 12's...what you have is a stack up of inefficiencies.

Another example is the Livernois auto car used when they first started tuning. They ran a 12.67 with a bone stock auto on 20" DR's. Next time out they ran the same car, same tune, but used light weight 17" DR's and removed the front seat. Just that weight reduction between the un-sprung mass and lower vehicle weight pushed them down to 12.19 (I think they may have removed the cat back exhaust too, but left in stock down pipe to lower weight as well)!

You could also run lighter wheels which may take off another 0.1 to 0.2 on your time. It all adds up. There's two ways to get there, one is to keep pushing more power, but at some point that's not practical or safe for the car. I personally will not use blended fuels, they simply aren't commonly available and for me highly impractical and risky (due to human error). I am building a pump gas car, so 93 is the best I can use that's widely available, seems like you have similar goals, a practical street car.

The other way is to focus on optimizing all of the areas you can, weight, power / efficiency and technique. That was the whole point of my TST 2.3L Optimization thread, which focused on all of the optimizations needed to make consistent and reliable power under a variety of conditions.

That's what I've been doing, is focusing on every detail I can for going fast, from break in processes, to gearing, to making consistent, optimal and safe power, getting used to the car, practicing launches when I can safely, changing feedback such as the clutch pedal feel, shifters etc...next is weight reduction of un-sprung mass by using a set of lightweight wheels.

The factory 18x8's are undoubtedly the lightest of the factory wheel options, but I think a light weight set of 19's are still lighter or same weight but with better traction. You have different tires also have different weights. I was just looking at a set of all seasons to replace the F1's next year as I doubt the ill last more than 20~30k (I'll run 19's in summer), two tires from two mfg's, same sizes, have a difference of 3lbs per tire in weight! That's 12lbs to get rolling just from tire selection.

Also try running with a 1/4 to 1/2 tank. Less fuel = less weight = faster time.

Thanks for the input. I am definitely keeping it a street car as it is my daily driver. I will probably just look to get technique down and also try for some cooler weather.

Thanks all for your inputs.

 

[PRG3k]

Thanks for the input. I am definitely keeping it a street car as it is my daily driver. I will probably just look to get technique down and also try for some cooler weather.

Thanks all for your inputs.

Yeah, you're kind of stuck w the single tune file. You can still hit 12's without adding any more power. The PP wheel and tire setup is very heavy and difficult to launch with a stick shift, a good tire change at least will go a long way. Did you drop a few pounds of pressure from the rear tires?

 

[turboph1sh]

Yeah, you're kind of stuck w the single tune file. You can still hit 12's without adding any more power. The PP wheel and tire setup is very heavy and difficult to launch with a stick shift, a good tire change at least will go a long way. Did you drop a few pounds of pressure from the rear tires?

Thats the one thing i didn't do but im not sure how much help it would have been.

 

[mtoo22]

I dropped my pressure to 25 on Saturday. Not sure what the optimal # would be?

 

[PRG3k]

It will help. Drop it a few pounds and then make a run. Then a couple more and do another run. You'll find a sweet spot somewhere around 22-25psi, at least I did.

 

[turboph1sh]

Here's the video from my second best run (only run I have footage for)

[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]d5PWACaGYZg[/MEDIA]"]

 

[Apwrx]

Hmm some slow times , you missing that 5.0 yet? Hope you get it figured out, underperforming car gets frustrating.

 

[turboph1sh]

Hmm some slow times , you missing that 5.0 yet? Hope you get it figured out, underperforming car gets frustrating.

This was my second slowest time of the day, I got a bad launch in (spun a lot) and 2nd-3rd shift i must have hit fuel cut or something, you can hear in the video post-shift the car completely shuts off for about 1 second then kicks back on.

 

[PRG3k]

2nd-3rd shift i must have hit fuel cut or something, you can hear in the video post-shift the car completely shuts off for about 1 second then kicks back on.

This is a common characteristic of the car. Mine used to do it on occasion but it seems like its been tuned out by Adam from all of the revisions. Was frustrating and very confusing at times. Just did not want to get back into power/boost after a fast up-shift, almost like you were working harder than the PCM could think and process.

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