- Joined
- Dec 8, 2015
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- Location
- Sacramento, CA
- Website
- www.signaturewheel.com
- Vehicle(s)
- 2017 GT350R
From my build thread
I also had the chance to install the ZL1 Addons tow hook. The piece is pretty robust after handling it. I thought this would be a relatively easy install, and 3 hours later I had it done. I would not call it difficult, but more time consuming than imagined with all the parts I had to remove. Something I would encourage anyone to tackle on their own, but set aside some time and be patient. The basic instructions left out some critical information, as there are more parts to remove than I thought. I did not have my camera out there to step by step pictures, but here is what I did.
1) Jack up the car using universal safety precautions (Jack stand, wheel chocks, etc)
2) Remove front splitter (must come off to reach front belly pan bolts)
3) Remove belly pan
4) Remove passenger side brake duct by taking out the 3 reusable push pins. One attaching the duct to the front bumper, and two attaching to the fender well liner.
5) At this point you will notice a boxed in area under and around the radiator. On each side there is a rubber like panel attached by four reusable push pins. Remove the 4 push pins from rubber air tunnel and open up this area in front of the radiator. The panel is pliable and simply folds back.
6) Remove the air temp sensor that is located in front of the radiator, and attached to the lower boxed portion via a push pin and locating tab. The sensor is attached to a plastic arm with another push pin and locating tab. I had to use the "reach around" method to get to the sensor. It is a little awkward at first, but simple enough.
7) Remove the air temp sensor from the plastic arm, and reinstall the sensor facing toward the driver side of the car. This will shorten the distance it hangs down into the grill, and allow the tow hook room to align to the grille opening.
8) Remove the two nuts from the bumper support bolts
9) Install the tow hook onto the exposed bolts of the bumper support, then reinstall and LOOSELY tighten the nuts.
10) Use the small amount of play on the bracket to align the tow hook receiver to the shaft, and thread it a few turns. It will fit VERY SNUG into the honeycomb grill opening.
11) With the tow hook and bracket fastened together, tighten down the nuts attaching the bracket to the bumper support
12) Tighten up the tow hook shaft to the receiver to your liking
13) Reinstall the brake duct, belly pan, and front splitter
Here are a couple of finished pictures to show the bracket and how tight of a fit the shaft of the tow hook has. The kit comes with a bit to remove any excess plastic from the honeycomb grill, but I did not need to use it on mine.
The newly installed jacking plates worked like a charm as well. Super easy to get the car up in the air now. Very impressed at how rigid the car is, since jacking up the front pinch weld will still get the rear tire off the ground. All the fox body and sn-95 cars I owned would flex like crazy until I had subframe connectors installed.
I also had the chance to install the ZL1 Addons tow hook. The piece is pretty robust after handling it. I thought this would be a relatively easy install, and 3 hours later I had it done. I would not call it difficult, but more time consuming than imagined with all the parts I had to remove. Something I would encourage anyone to tackle on their own, but set aside some time and be patient. The basic instructions left out some critical information, as there are more parts to remove than I thought. I did not have my camera out there to step by step pictures, but here is what I did.
1) Jack up the car using universal safety precautions (Jack stand, wheel chocks, etc)
2) Remove front splitter (must come off to reach front belly pan bolts)
3) Remove belly pan
4) Remove passenger side brake duct by taking out the 3 reusable push pins. One attaching the duct to the front bumper, and two attaching to the fender well liner.
5) At this point you will notice a boxed in area under and around the radiator. On each side there is a rubber like panel attached by four reusable push pins. Remove the 4 push pins from rubber air tunnel and open up this area in front of the radiator. The panel is pliable and simply folds back.
6) Remove the air temp sensor that is located in front of the radiator, and attached to the lower boxed portion via a push pin and locating tab. The sensor is attached to a plastic arm with another push pin and locating tab. I had to use the "reach around" method to get to the sensor. It is a little awkward at first, but simple enough.
7) Remove the air temp sensor from the plastic arm, and reinstall the sensor facing toward the driver side of the car. This will shorten the distance it hangs down into the grill, and allow the tow hook room to align to the grille opening.
8) Remove the two nuts from the bumper support bolts
9) Install the tow hook onto the exposed bolts of the bumper support, then reinstall and LOOSELY tighten the nuts.
10) Use the small amount of play on the bracket to align the tow hook receiver to the shaft, and thread it a few turns. It will fit VERY SNUG into the honeycomb grill opening.
11) With the tow hook and bracket fastened together, tighten down the nuts attaching the bracket to the bumper support
12) Tighten up the tow hook shaft to the receiver to your liking
13) Reinstall the brake duct, belly pan, and front splitter
Here are a couple of finished pictures to show the bracket and how tight of a fit the shaft of the tow hook has. The kit comes with a bit to remove any excess plastic from the honeycomb grill, but I did not need to use it on mine.
The newly installed jacking plates worked like a charm as well. Super easy to get the car up in the air now. Very impressed at how rigid the car is, since jacking up the front pinch weld will still get the rear tire off the ground. All the fox body and sn-95 cars I owned would flex like crazy until I had subframe connectors installed.
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