Steeda Progressive Spring review

[ob1]

With my Steeda progressive springs I went to a quality alignment business.
They had to put some alignment bolt of some sort on the front.
All is within spec and handles like a dream.

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[SteedaTech]

Concept One Video

Steeda Progressive springs used in video.


[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]jGHJSJF1Frw[/MEDIA]"][/ame]

 

[SteedaTech]

Another great shot with Steeda progressive springs

 

[Mustang_Eh]

Steeda Progressive Springs + Pro-Action Fixed Struts and Shocks.
WedsSport wheels 18x10 36 offset
Yokohama S.Drive 275/40/18

 

[tj@steeda]

Steeda Progressive Springs + Pro-Action Fixed Struts and Shocks.
WedsSport wheels 18x10 36 offset
Yokohama S.Drive 275/40/18

And, what are your thoughts on the ride quality?

The car looks great ... you should be very happy!

TJ

 

[Mustang_Eh]

And, what are your thoughts on the ride quality?

The car looks great ... you should be very happy!

TJ

Thanks, TJ. I'm very new to suspension stuff, but the daily ride feels as it used to with stock struts and shocks + progressive springs. Not harsh, but definitely feeling more.

I'm going to the track on Thursday so we'll see what she do.

 

[tj@steeda]

Thanks, TJ. I'm very new to suspension stuff, but the daily ride feels as it used to with stock struts and shocks + progressive springs. Not harsh, but definitely feeling more.

I'm going to the track on Thursday so we'll see what she do.

Sounds good - will await your real world feedback!

TJ

 

[tj@steeda]

We have created some nice packages that include our springs for comfort, handling & the track:

555-2407 - Steeda S550 Mustang Comfort Suspension Package (15-17)
555-2408 - Steeda S550 Mustang Handling Suspension Package (15-17)
555-2409 - Steeda S550 Mustang Track Suspension Package (15-17)

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[mikes2017gt]

What a great idea! For the Mustang neophytes out there, like me, this is very helpful. There is a good description of what each package does and the results you can expect. These type of packages are so needed in the G6 community.

 

[Faris14]

I installed the Progressive springs and 25 mm spacers about two weeks ago and had an alignment couple days ago. The mechanic wasn't able to align it back to spec and reduce the negative camber that much. He said I need to install front camber bolts and rear upper control arms. Also after the alignment I've started to hear some nosies from the left front end when I take a bump or drive on a bad pavement. Any advice? [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] [MENTION=7748]tj@steeda[/MENTION]

Here's a pic with the progressive springs

 

[jbailer]

I installed the Progressive springs and 25 mm spacers about two weeks ago and had an alignment couple days ago. The mechanic wasn't able to align it back to spec and reduce the negative camber that much. He said I need to install front camber bolts and rear upper control arms. Also after the alignment I've started to hear some nosies from the left front end when I take a bump or drive one a bad pavement. Any advice? [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] [MENTION=7748]tj@steeda[/MENTION]

For the noise in the front left, it's hard to tell without a good description of what kind of noise. Your springs should have come with isolators on them (black slip on sleeves). They should be on the coils that are closer together and should be oriented to the top. If not, you could be getting a little noise when the lighter load coils come together. Mine don't even have the isolators and I don't get any noise at all but Steeda added them because a couple people did. Most likely something was left loose. My first guess would be the strut nut wasn't tightened all the way (76 lb ft) or the tie rod at 85 lb ft but i would talk to Steeda for sure, very helpful!

As for the alignment, what I do is hand them the instructions on how to adjust the rear camber. There is plenty of adjustment from the factory to get it within spec although it's not easy and if I remember right, the driver's side is a bit of a pain to get to the nut to loosen/tighten it for adjustment. The front is a different story. Lowered 1.125" in the front brought my camber out to about -2.0 -2.1. Then I got camber bolts which is the cheap route but got what I paid for. Every time I got an alignment after the from camber moved, the hardware is a lot smaller than the stock strut bolts (it replaces the top strut bolt). I replaced that with Steeda camber plates and life is good again.

 

[SteedaTech]

I installed the Progressive springs and 25 mm spacers about two weeks ago and had an alignment couple days ago. The mechanic wasn't able to align it back to spec and reduce the negative camber that much. He said I need to install front camber bolts and rear upper control arms. Also after the alignment I've started to hear some nosies from the left front end when I take a bump or drive on a bad pavement. Any advice? @SteedaTech @tj@steeda

Here's a pic with the progressive springs

More than likely, it is the upper strut nut not torqued to spec. Also, check to make sure the spring isolators are positioned properly. They can be repositioned very easily once the car is jacked up.

 

[jasonstang]

For the noise in the front left, it's hard to tell without a good description of what kind of noise. Your springs should have come with isolators on them (black slip on sleeves). They should be on the coils that are closer together and should be oriented to the top. If not, you could be getting a little noise when the lighter load coils come together. Mine don't even have the isolators and I don't get any noise at all but Steeda added them because a couple people did. Most likely something was left loose. My first guess would be the strut nut wasn't tightened all the way (76 lb ft) or the tie rod at 85 lb ft but i would talk to Steeda for sure, very helpful!

As for the alignment, what I do is hand them the instructions on how to adjust the rear camber. There is plenty of adjustment from the factory to get it within spec although it's not easy and if I remember right, the driver's side is a bit of a pain to get to the nut to loosen/tighten it for adjustment. The front is a different story. Lowered 1.125" in the front brought my camber out to about -2.0 -2.1. Then I got camber bolts which is the cheap route but got what I paid for. Every time I got an alignment after the from camber moved, the hardware is a lot smaller than the stock strut bolts (it replaces the top strut bolt). I replaced that with Steeda camber plates and life is good again.

FYI Steeda has these brackets that go onto the stock mounting points to allow more solid and precious adjustments if you don't feel like investing in adjustable arms.
https://www.steeda.com/rear-camber-adjustment-kit.html

 

[Faris14]

For the noise in the front left, it's hard to tell without a good description of what kind of noise. Your springs should have come with isolators on them (black slip on sleeves). They should be on the coils that are closer together and should be oriented to the top. If not, you could be getting a little noise when the lighter load coils come together. Mine don't even have the isolators and I don't get any noise at all but Steeda added them because a couple people did. Most likely something was left loose. My first guess would be the strut nut wasn't tightened all the way (76 lb ft) or the tie rod at 85 lb ft but i would talk to Steeda for sure, very helpful!

As for the alignment, what I do is hand them the instructions on how to adjust the rear camber. There is plenty of adjustment from the factory to get it within spec although it's not easy and if I remember right, the driver's side is a bit of a pain to get to the nut to loosen/tighten it for adjustment. The front is a different story. Lowered 1.125" in the front brought my camber out to about -2.0 -2.1. Then I got camber bolts which is the cheap route but got what I paid for. Every time I got an alignment after the from camber moved, the hardware is a lot smaller than the stock strut bolts (it replaces the top strut bolt). I replaced that with Steeda camber plates and life is good again.

More than likely, it is the upper strut nut not torqued to spec. Also, check to make sure the spring isolators are positioned properly. They can be repositioned very easily once the car is jacked up.

Thank you [MENTION=15518]jbailer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] for the advice and the pictures.

I made sure that I torqued the upper strut nut three different times all the way to 76 lb.ft but the clunk noise is still there. I'll check the spring isolators position again.

For the alignment, I guess I'll just install camber bolts in front for now.
For the rear I'm surprised that the mechanic, who's supposed to be one of the best alignment mechanic in the area, told me to buy upper control arms while as what I understood from you guys that he could align it back to factory spec. Is there any reason that he couldn't do it?!

 

[SteedaTech]

Thank you [MENTION=15518]jbailer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] for the advice and the pictures.

I made sure that I torqued the upper strut nut three different times all the way to 76 lb.ft but the clunk noise is still there. I'll check the spring isolators position again.

For the alignment, I guess I'll just install camber bolts in front for now.
For the rear I'm surprised that the mechanic, who's supposed to be one of the best alignment mechanic in the area, told me to buy upper control arms while as what I understood from you guys that he could align it back to factory spec. Is there any reason that he couldn't do it?!

I would recommend another alignment shop. Upper control arms are not needed!

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