I never re-calibrated mine. Not an endorsement - but it clearly never caused major problems.
There's a quick and dirty way to recalibrate them. Use Forscan to read the ride height sensor voltage with the suspension hanging in the air. Then swap out the LCA's and reinstall the sensors, leaving them a bit loose so you can nudge them if you need to, and measure the voltage again. If the voltage is the same as when you started, you're good to go. I had a faulty sensor that was cutting out intermittently and I replaced it. New sensor, same voltage at full droop, job done.
Whose spec is the 160 - 180 ft lbs torque? The factory torque for both of the outer control arm nuts is 76 ft lbs if you've got an SVT vehicle.Thanks Christ this happened as I was torquing my caliper and not while driving....
I have no reason to believe the wrench is off. I have the calibration certificate and I've been using it without issue for the past year (wheel lugs, caliper nuts, and all manner of other jobs). Also none of the other studs from SPL failed at the same torque.
Yeah, if that stud was faulty, I'd expect to see some corrosion where it sheared, or some sign of poor quality whatsoever. It looks to me like it was just overstressed.
Yeah I don't know. I'm not a metallurgist. I don't know how or why it would be overstressed. I just went down and conducted a quick experiment. I tightened my wheel lugs with a different torque wrench and then tested the one I used last night and it clicked at the same torque value.
They WILL make it right…..theyre one of the few companies that stand behind their products. call turner monday and theyll send out new ones but i have all their stuff on both cars and had never had an issue.
