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Bulutt

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Ok, so I screwed up the order and got the Powerstop Z23 pads, not the Z26. If they are the same except for the backing plate, will the Z23s be fine for the Bullitt or do I need to exchange them for Z26? I don't drive so hard so don't believe heat dissipation will be an issue but any first hand advice would be appreciated. ALWAYS CHECK YOUR ORDER AGAIN BEFORE YOU HIT THE ENTER KEY!!! Thanks
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Farkel

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FWIW - I love my Z23s (PP1 w/ Brembos). Just be sure you follow the bedding in instructions.
 

Therealmattlex

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I've been running the Z23 pads for over a year and I used them for a HPDE event. I think they are great for the way I use my car.
 

Snellemin

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I vote for, if you can exchange the pads for no additional cost, exchange them. If not, keep them. The rear pads have more surface area touching the rotors, vs the stock pads. That's a win already.
 

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GTP

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I actually prefer the Z23 due to less chance of squeal, plus I never use any brake grease. They are also a few bucks cheaper. And the Z26 silver backing plate is only visible on the rears, and it gets dirty anyway, so just stick with what you ordered, consider yourself lucky, and be happy!
 

Doug V

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I actually prefer the Z23 due to less chance of squeal, plus I never use any brake grease. They are also a few bucks cheaper. And the Z26 silver backing plate is only visible on the rears, and it gets dirty anyway, so just stick with what you ordered, consider yourself lucky, and be happy!
I have used Power Stop pads and rotors on several cars from a hot hatches to performance sedans. The rotors are great but I never liked the pads. So I used Hawk HPS 5.0 to replace my Mustang PP1 OEM pads. They generate less dust that stock but more than ceramic. A good compromise. They make no noise and are excellent on the track.

Also, EBC now makes pads for the Brembo equipped Mustangs. In the past, I have replaced most of my Power Stop equipped cars with EBC and have been happy.

There are many good options out there, for those looking for an
alternative to Power Stop.
 
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Bulutt

Bulutt

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Thanks for all the replies but a small complication popped up. My mechanic suggested that it may be advisable to machine or clean the existing rotors/pads so they bond better with the new pads. Did you guys do this or just install the pads with the old rotors and just break the pads in as instructed?

Thanks
 

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NightmareMoon

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Thanks for all the replies but a small complication popped up. My mechanic suggested that it may be advisable to machine or clean the existing rotors/pads so they bond better with the new pads. Did you guys do this or just install the pads with the old rotors and just break the pads in as instructed?

Thanks
It just depends. If the rotors are grooved it or if the pads are used it can take weeks of normal driving to wear in and get a good contact area, which has downsides, but usually isnt the end of the world.

Not many places want to resurface rotors, so usually you just suffer through some extra wear during that period and just replace the rotors if they crack too much or reach minimum thickness.

If they aren’t charging much and do great work, then yes please resurface my rotors for my new pads.
 
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Paul McWhiskey

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Rotors have become quite inexpensive. Unless you are looking at two piece or some other types of very high performance disks, that it is faster and easier to just buy new. Also faster and easier to bed the new pads.

I am about to install new rotors, pads, and titanium isolators on the fronts only. The most expensive parts were the pads (Ferrodo). The thing to keep in mind, I believe, is that pads and rotors are consumables. How one uses them determines how often they will need replacement. Also, brakes are safety equipment. Will your conscious be clear when your son/daughter or grand children are in the car if you saved X dollars on the brake job? And if it is your track car, well then you know.
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