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Pypes Long tube headers fitment issues!

beefcake

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i wish i was there to look at them in person. i probably have 30-40 members on the board alone that have done these headers, with 0 complaints, and we have done about 20 installs locally on them again , no issue.

as far as the ac bolt, we remove that on every brand like i said, it's close on them all.

and your tight on the frame towards the top, other than the ac bolt, i don't forsee any issue with false knock or anything
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JuRuKi

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I will relocate that bolt. What is worrying me the most right now is ground clearance! These headers hang way too low for lowered cars and mine isnt even lowered that much. I tried measuring and i have close to 3 inches of clearance.
 

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You get what you pay for, regardless of what any vendor says.
 

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heres what you should look like pretty close

again, we didn't install and i'm not there in person, so i can't say for sure whats going on, but this is about what weve installed looks like

this is from the inside, but you can clearly see, they sit below the frame rail
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the headers are a big solid piece so not sure what can be done differently on mine. [MENTION=10926]beefcake[/MENTION] what about ground clearance? Do none of your customers have any issues with that? When we talked that was one of my main concerns and you told me i wouldnt have any ground clearance issues. Is mine defective or do they all hang this low?
 

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the headers are a big solid piece so not sure what can be done differently on mine. [MENTION=10926]beefcake[/MENTION] what about ground clearance? Do none of your customers have any issues with that? When we talked that was one of my main concerns and you told me i wouldnt have any ground clearance issues. Is mine defective or do they all hang this low?
cameras can be funny on angles, just looked at one we have on a lift with sw headers, and measuring, your about 1" below the frame rail with the header,

i also looked at my car thats on the lift last nigh with ARH 2", didn't measure it yet, but it hangs below the frame rail as well. we'll be working on it tonight, so i'll measure it as well.

but i don't think your actually way outta line if your car is lowered already,
 

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So here are the arh on my car. Slightly over an inch below the frame real and as tight or more further up.

But. They don't touch. It's a long tube header. It's gonna be tight. It's gonna sit low. If I put a can under my car. It's gonnas be the same or worse looking. But doesn't cause issues.

That's what I meant by thread being misleading. Car is fine. Fitment is fine. Every car is a little different but close

We pull the wheels and drop this one down and never had any scraping

I could have posted these and said they were another set of pypes no one would have known any difference and everyone would have jumped in and Bashed and said buy more expensive they are all the same the less expensive pypes the less-expensive stainless power the nicer kooks, aRH stainless Works pick your brand pick your budget and run with them we sell them all we run them all and they all work and fit well as far as a long tube header can fit
20170622_185619-resized-1024.jpg
20170622_190127-resized-1024.jpg
 

armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT

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OP, you have a few options correct the firewall "frame" issues. Loosen up the motor mount bolts and shift the motor over, or loosen up the cross member and move it over. That will help correct your side to side issue. Unless you're really close on the driver's side already. I did my install with the MBRP headers and I had more than a 1/4" on my passenger side, but on some turns, they still made contact. I shifted the motor over and the cross member over and it was perfect. Mbrp still sent me a revised header in case.

Looking at your pics, you're way closer than I was. So I can't guarantee that'll work...

Also, the hanging low seems to be a pype thing. MBRP, SW/SP kooks and so on, don't sit like that. Mine are even with the subframe.
 
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Anyways. I have an appointment tomorrow to go deal with the ac bolt issue. Hopefully that will fix my rattling buzzing problems for good.
For the hanging low thing im gonna take it to a muffler shop and ask them if they could heat and bend it a little to gain a little more ground clearance. I hit the headers on speed bumps several times already in the short time i had them.
Anyone know if 304 Stainless Steel would bend or crack?
 

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So which one is it? do all headers hang this low or not? :D
i posted my arh above, and i think we measure a stainless power the other day and it was 1/2 to 3/4" below too

i think kooks is the tightest, since its a mid length design the collector is further up
 

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Anyways. I have an appointment tomorrow to go deal with the ac bolt issue. Hopefully that will fix my rattling buzzing problems for good.
For the hanging low thing im gonna take it to a muffler shop and ask them if they could heat and bend it a little to gain a little more ground clearance. I hit the headers on speed bumps several times already in the short time i had them.
Anyone know if 304 Stainless Steel would bend or crack?
To equally heat all 4 primary tubes at the collector will be damn near impossible, without catching the car on fire. They will need to be cherry red. Once red, you will be changing the surface structure of the steel as you bend it. If they use a torch, the gas will alter the steel and you will lose the anti-corrosive properties of 304 anyways. They will look like garbage. Once bent, you need to reheat the whole section and let it rest, or your welds will crack open.

If you must keep your headers while being lowered, better bag-it!!!:cool:
 
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^^ thanks for the info GTBOB! I think ill just keep scrapping here and there and hopefully it will flatten itself over time lol.
Bags are out of the question for me. Too heavy and not very performance oriented.
 

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Anyways. I have an appointment tomorrow to go deal with the ac bolt issue. Hopefully that will fix my rattling buzzing problems for good.
....I hit the headers on speed bumps several times already in the short time i had them.
Anyone know if 304 Stainless Steel would bend or crack?
that sucks. Have you contacted the vendor? They'll do their best to deny a problem exists, just keep after them.
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