Procharger stage two kit

[cp5899]

I know the farther you get away from the block with the blower pulley the more load it applies to the crank snout. Does the coyote suffer from broken crank issues due to the stage two having the pulley attach outboard of the standard Acc. drive pulleys. I snapped a crank snout off in the late 90's due to load from keeping the belt tight to avoid belt slip.

I was sold on the Paxton, but do like the location of the procharger, The Paxton 2200 seems to have more capabilities from what I've read.

Any experience is appreciated. This is my first experience with the coyote.

Thanks

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[ProChargerTECH]

I know the farther you get away from the block with the blower pulley the more load it applies to the crank snout. Does the coyote suffer from broken crank issues due to the stage two having the pulley attach outboard of the standard Acc. drive pulleys. I snapped a crank snout off in the late 90's due to load from keeping the belt tight to avoid belt slip.

I was sold on the Paxton, but do like the location of the procharger, The Paxton 2200 seems to have more capabilities from what I've read.

Any experience is appreciated. This is my first experience with the coyote.

Thanks

We use a spring loaded tensioner,
That does not apply that much force on the crank.

The "work" is done by the traction of having a dedicated belt, with 8 ribs.
This allows for less slip, at a much lower tension on the belt.

Same bracket design, tensioner, and intercooler that just did this....
(Coyote motor, with F-1A-94 small small blower)
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44387

Having a dedicated belt, also means if you want to remove the blower and drive the car N/A you can do that in like 3min. (removing the belt) Or take the bracket off in just a couple more min.

If the blower ever has an issue. (which would be weird and very very very very very rare) you can drive the car like normal, by just removing the supercharger belt.

We literally have 10's of thousands of these Coyote brackets out there now with the dedicated drive. We have only heard of a couple crank issues (less then 1 hand)...and who knows if that was a tension issue, or a OEM parts failure. (It happens)

Our 2011 Coyote demo car has logged hundereds of passes at the track, literally thousands and thousands of dyno pulls (every week we are testing something with it) makes just shy of 800rwhp, and has never had an issue what so ever. This car has likely had 50-60 different blowers on it, and just keeps on kicking.

 

[Martman GT]

We use a spring loaded tensioner,
That does not apply that much force on the crank.

The "work" is done by the traction of having a dedicated belt, with 8 ribs.
This allows for less slip, at a much lower tension on the belt.

Same bracket design, tensioner, and intercooler that just did this....
(Coyote motor, with F-1A-94 small small blower)
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44387

Having a dedicated belt, also means if you want to remove the blower and drive the car N/A you can do that in like 3min. (removing the belt) Or take the bracket off in just a couple more min.

If the blower ever has an issue. (which would be weird and very very very very very rare) you can drive the car like normal, by just removing the supercharger belt.

We literally have 10's of thousands of these Coyote brackets out there now with the dedicated drive. We have only heard of a couple crank issues (less then 1 hand)...and who knows if that was a tension issue, or a OEM parts failure. (It happens)

Our 2011 Coyote demo car has logged hundereds of passes at the track, literally thousands and thousands of dyno pulls (every week we are testing something with it) makes just shy of 800rwhp, and has never had an issue what so ever. This car has likely had 50-60 different blowers on it, and just keeps on kicking.

If you were to "pull the belt" how is the car going to run correctly if it's tuned for the FI? Or, would you need to pull belt and flash PCM back to stock tune?

 

[zaquhree]

Procharger intercooler makes me sad :'(

 

[ProChargerTECH]

If you were to "pull the belt" how is the car going to run correctly if it's tuned for the FI? Or, would you need to pull belt and flash PCM back to stock tune?

The car reads the MAF to tell how much fuel to add.

If the blower isn't turning, just less air goes into the motor.
Our tunes are made so that it runs normal without the belt. (just in case)

Obviously if you have the car still sucking through all that intercooler tubing without the blower turning its gonna be slower then if it just had the stock cold air inlet. But thats not the point.... the point is to get you home, driving normal, safe and sound.

 

[ProChargerTECH]

Procharger intercooler makes me sad :'(

Why the sad face. ? :(

 

[zaquhree]

Why the sad face. ? :(

Cause it is so big and shiny :hail:

 

[ProChargerTECH]

Cause it is so big and shiny :hail:

HAHAHAHAH, thats awesome.

The size of a core is only half the equation. Those huge end tanks are really a massive help to keeping the air happy as the HP levels rise. ;) We spent some quality time with that one. Plus it just looks mean...

The "internet" guru's stated that our intercooler for the 2011-2014 cars sucked, but whats funny is that same "suck" intercooler is what just powered that Coyote Modified car to its 7 second pass at 172 mph LOL. Just funny the difference between keyboard knowledge, and real life.

We could save a TON of money on making our kits if we used China intercoolers, or China made cores. But we literally refuse to, and keep our intercoolers made right here in the USA... tanks, cores, welds and all. That way we control every aspect of the design, and keep american works employed.

 

[Evolvd]

Do you offer your cores anodized in black? I'm really leaning towards a procharger set up but want to maintain the stealth look.

 

[ProChargerTECH]

Do you offer your cores anodized in black? I'm really leaning towards a procharger set up but want to maintain the stealth look.

We don't at this time....

Customers have had it done local once they get the kit.
Others have polished the end tanks (that looks neat)
And most just use a very very light coat of paint of their choice.

 

[18psi]

I see you seem to be recommending the 8rib belt kit over the one that uses the stock belt. Any reason for this? Isn't the base kit even easier to install and easier on the crank?

 

[ProChargerTECH]

I see you seem to be recommending the 8rib belt kit over the one that uses the stock belt. Any reason for this? Isn't the base kit even easier to install and easier on the crank?

The title topic was about the "Stage 2" which uses that 8 rib.

Obviously our HO system is kick butt, with many guys in the 10's, and one knocking on the doors of 9's with the HO system. It's a proven system with big power, and a nice budget price point.

Personally I am a huge fan of dedicated belts.

- Less stretch of the belt
- Less load can be used, since more ribs are present
- Easy to change belts, pulleys, etc.

Would think nearly every racer, would agree. You don't see that many race cars running a shared drive belt. (Unless they don't have an option) And since the cost difference between the two kits isn't that bad, plus the larger intercooler, to me its the system I would buy.

If a person broke a crank, just because a pulley sticks out 1" further... they are doing something wrong....PERIOD.
I have seen cranks break on shared drives just as much as I have seen them break on dedicated drives.
In the 15 years I been in the forced induction game, I have seen a LOT... and proven many "myths" to be false.

Here is one that I wasted a boat load of time and money disproving recent.
"Plastic intakes, or Phenolic spacers on intakes create more power due to less heat"

With the temp sensor in the head near the valve...
ZERO difference was present in the actual air inlet temp to the combustion chamber, no matter what intake was used.
And ZERO difference was present in power that couldn't be attributed to "dyno run error"

So I will admit, I thought it would make a difference, and lost a personal bet....
And wasted a lot of company money and time.... oh well, thats learning for ya.

 

[bobbyh]

Do you offer your cores anodized in black? I'm really leaning towards a procharger set up but want to maintain the stealth look.

Check out Swaintech; they do intercooler painting with a special "heat emiiter" coating. A lot of road racers use it.

They did a ceramic type coating on my upper and down-pipe on my WRX and it's been great through three winters already.

If not maybe a thin layer of spray paint might be OK?

 

[Evolvd]

I had paint on my Evo's IC and it just flakes off from being sandblasted by sand and road pebbles. I'll look into the swaintech, thanks!

 

[beefcake]

both kits work well.

i am a fan of direct drive, which you can get on either system.

and you can always upgrade to the stage 2 intercooler, if you prefer the direct drive.

so you can have it both ways if you want a procharger with direct drive.

the stage 2 intercooler with a d1 upgrade would yield similar results to the 2200 kit

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