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Partial cradle alignment sleeves

JOKER M1

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So hear me out, most all of us know how frustrating it is/can be getting the cradle aligned (reinstalling the bolts) using the BMR or STEEDA alignment sleeves be it in their lock-out or BMR’s lockout. How critical do you think it is to have all 4 sleeves installed, how about just the 2 rear ones ? I ask this as an honest question. I have the BMR CB005 but I didn’t install the sleeves mostly due to how much trouble I had with my previous mustang. Back to my point of asking the question, KELLTRAC‘s system only uses any alignment type system in the rear only so why couldn’t I use the 2 rear BMR or STEEDA alignment sleeves to align the cradle and save the headache. Would that not be similar to what KELLTRAC is doing ? I assume his method is acceptable. I’m also aware there is more going on with KELLTRAC’s system but I’m focusing on the alignment aspect.

@BMR Suspension @BMR Tech
@Steeda Tech JohnC
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GTP

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You could put in two, and then shine a flashlight into the remaining two spots to check how centered is the cradle there.

You might get a little more accuracy if you used two that are diagonal from each other (one front and one rear).

Or you could see if you can get 3 in, if the 4th is a real pain to install.

I heard that the BMR sleeves fit looser than Steeda's, so if I were to do it again, I'd try theirs. I also apply dry graphite to the outside of the sleeves before installing. This is mainly for dropping the cradle later and not having to do with initial installation.
 

NightmareMoon

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Probably depends if you just want it where it was before, or if you want it truly centered.
 
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JOKER M1

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4 is always better than 2. I do remember hearing the BMR sleeves are supposed to be a better fit, 🤷🏻‍♂️. Guess I’ll find out
 

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S550 Recon

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So hear me out, most all of us know how frustrating it is/can be getting the cradle aligned (reinstalling the bolts) using the steeda sleeves be it in their lock-out or BMR’s lockout. How critical do you think it is to have all 4 sleeves installed, how about just the 2 front ones ? I ask this as an honest question. I have the BMR CB005 but I didn’t install the sleeves mostly due to how much trouble I had with my previous mustang. Back to my point of asking the question, KELLTRAC‘s system only uses any alignment type system in the front only so why couldn’t I use the 2 front STEEDA sleeves to align the cradle and save the headache. Would that not be similar to what KELLTRAC is doing ? I assume his method is acceptable. I’m also aware there is more going on with KELLTRAC’s system but I’m focusing on the alignment aspect.

@BMR Suspension @BMR Tech
@Steeda Tech JohnC
The kelltrac kit uses 2 front sleeves because the rear lower bushing lockout of theirs has a cnc machined centering lug, integrated into the part.
 
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JOKER M1

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The kelltrac kit uses 2 front sleeves because the rear lower bushing lockout of theirs has a cnc machined centering lug, integrated into the part.
Ah yes you are right, the integrated ones are the rear. I misunderstood Kelly’s video so I watched someone else’s video to be clear but I didn’t see front sleeves used in either video 🤷🏻‍♂️. I edited my original post, thanks. I did purchase BMR’s alignment sleeves and hopefully they are easier to install than the STEEDA sleeves. If I’m not satisfied with the BMR sleeve installation I will replace the complete CB005 with the KELLTRAC system.
 
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WItoTX

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Tighter fit to me means the cradle is likely going to go back into the exact same spot each time you drop the subframe. Basically tighter fit means more repeatable results on the alignment rack after you drop the cradle some time down the road.

Full disclosure, I'm not familiar with the kelltrec system.
 

GTP

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Tighter fit to me means the cradle is likely going to go back into the exact same spot each time you drop the subframe. Basically tighter fit means more repeatable results on the alignment rack after you drop the cradle some time down the road.

Full disclosure, I'm not familiar with the kelltrec system.
I have the Steeda sleeves, and IMO they could have made the OD slightly smaller, and the ID slightly larger. I'm talking just a few thousandths, i.e. not enough to even make any alignment angle difference.

Plus you have to pay special attention to the insertion direction, because one end is barely larger than the other, so as to clear the blue bolt knurling under the bolt head.

I put dry graphite on the outside simply to make it easier to pull them back out in the future.
 

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DougS550

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Question. With the Kelltrac Studs in, and the cradle lowered all the way down as it can go and still be supported by the studs, , does this give you enough room/access to replace the front and rear Diff bushings? I like this kelltrac kit.
 
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JOKER M1

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Question. With the Kelltrac Studs in, and the cradle lowered all the way down as it can go and still be supported by the studs, , does this give you enough room/access to replace the front and rear Diff bushings? I like this kelltrac kit.
I can’t answer that, maybe someone else can or contact Kelly. I don’t remember if he mentions that in his video.
 
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JOKER M1

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Question. With the Kelltrac Studs in, and the cradle lowered all the way down as it can go and still be supported by the studs, , does this give you enough room/access to replace the front and rear Diff bushings? I like this kelltrac kit.
Hey, why did you decide on the Whipple over ESS ?
 

DougS550

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Hey, why did you decide on the Whipple over ESS ?
One reason only. I wanted to play, feel the power from a dig, any RPM, any speed. I also feel like for me, a PD would be easier, more predictable to control/handle and not get blind sided by the Centri/Turbo 5000> Hp hit. And I 'DID NOT' want to play around above 100mph just to feel the FI rush. But, that is just my personal wants.
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