Bluemustang
Well-Known Member
What I'm talking about is something different. The wheels won't affect the geometry of the suspension - more particularly, the angle of the front control arms. Different wheels/tires will affect the ride height (how low the car is to the ground) and so does running shorter springs. However, running shorter springs will change the angle of the control arms i.e. how the suspension system was designed from factory. Idk how the Mach1 for example is setup - does it have different control arms or does it use a "minimum drop" type of spring. You won't be able to use the rear springs from the Mach1 for sure because it was designed for Magneride. The front springs probably you could... I just don't know that for certain.I'm trying to keep the wheel suspension geometry to 27.3 inch diameter from factory as much as possible. I have the 18x9 +40 or 44 (24lb per wheel 5-spoke OEM) at the moment.
As i said, bone stock for the past 6 years.
I post about this a lot because most people don't consider it... if you drop the car 1 inch you won't ruin the car... but there is an effect from changing the suspension geometry. When I started 8 years ago I knew nothing. But I learned through trial and error. The more informed you are about suspension dynamics the better you can engineer it to work the best.
You have the right mindset though. There is always a compromise. Although, IMO, the Mustang is too soft and I'd trade for firmer ride that is controlled and predictable enabling me to be confident in any corner I go into.
***One thing though. If you have a Mustang from 2018 and up, you would unfortunately need to modify the rear lower control arm to accommodate the Ohlins spring. 2018+ has updated control arms from 2015-17 years. The Ohlins was originally designed for the 2016 car and the rear spring cup/seat and is designed for that hole shape. @bnightstar has done it on his. It's doable, but definitely something you need to be aware of. Everything else will bolt on besides that one headache. 2015-2017 cars all have the same rear lower control arm and it will bolt on.
I do understand where Bnightstar is coming from. Suspension and ride quality and all that is subjective to the person. As good as the Ohlins are, I think even he feels that are a little too firm for his liking at times. But his preferences and the roads he drives on will be different from yours. So I don't blame him for his opinions, because well, they're his. And he has a lot of experience with the setup.
I will say, the good thing about the Ohlins - you can dial them down to be more compliant on the street and then dial them up for canyons or the track and they will work. In my limited testing in a month or so, adjusting the damping - it does a lot. Every click makes a difference. You can dial them up and down I'm pretty confident to suit your preferences. I am pretty picky lol. If you check out my build thread you'll see haha. And, there is room for you to go up in spring rate later. There is a lot of damping force. They're a lot more capable than the typical shocks and struts you can buy off the shelf from FP, Bilstein, Koni or Steeda.
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