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baevid

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I’ve been running the J&M Ohlins R&T 300F/900R for about a year now. I mostly run it daily at full soft 20 clicks front and rear and it’s been nice. Probably the most street compliant coilovers I’ve owned of all my cars.
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I’ve been running the J&M Ohlins R&T 300F/900R for about a year now. I mostly run it daily at full soft 20 clicks front and rear and it’s been nice. Probably the most street compliant coilovers I’ve owned of all my cars.
I can tell you on the stock Ohlins rates 515F/800R it rides much better than my previous setup on BMR SP083 (250F/980R). I am running them at 15 clicks from full stiff at the moment. So there is more room to run them even softer.
 

guitrflip

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I don't right now. I'm using the Ohlins R&T stock rates. What are you running now, are you on aftermarket suspension or stock?
None. The car is completely bone stock. So it’s gonna be a huge upgrade. I’ve been tempted to pick up bilsteins and BMR handling, but a part of me knows I won’t be fully happy. So I just bidded my time until now to pull the trigger. I know myself too well. This 1st mod will trigger me into a rabbit hole (from my ebm days). But fortunately, the car is mine now and I have funds in hand to play.
Looking forward to everyone’s review on this. I want a one and done kind of suspension upgrade.
 

Bluemustang

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I’ve been running the J&M Ohlins R&T 300F/900R for about a year now. I mostly run it daily at full soft 20 clicks front and rear and it’s been nice. Probably the most street compliant coilovers I’ve owned of all my cars.
Mine appear to have 30 clicks range.
 

Bluemustang

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None. The car is completely bone stock. So it’s gonna be a huge upgrade. I’ve been tempted to pick up bilsteins and BMR handling, but a part of me knows I won’t be fully happy. So I just bidded my time until now to pull the trigger. I know myself too well. This 1st mod will trigger me into a rabbit hole (from my ebm days). But fortunately, the car is mine now and I have funds in hand to play.
Looking forward to everyone’s review on this. I want a one and done kind of suspension upgrade.
What year? Likely you won't see many (or any) more reviews on it apart from mine. There's few on this forum as it is since the S550 came out.

BMR Handling/Bilstein is a great setup. I ran the same setup for years, except I used FP track dampers. Lots of good feedback on both combinations.

Bone stock - you certainly have the rabbit hole ahead of you. I have some recommendations for you if you want em. I've done just about all there is on my 2015. Without releasing a full review I can tell you the Ohlins setup is wonderful for street driving and carving up the canyons. The other setup you're considering is great too. And less money.

If you want a one and done - the Ohlins is such a product. It can be used on the track as well. I spoke to Vorshlag about it prior to purchasing. I was all set on some MCS coilovers until Jason talked me into this. I have driven on the track with BMR setup and it was excellent. I've yet to get to track on the new setup though.
 

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None. The car is completely bone stock. So it’s gonna be a huge upgrade. I’ve been tempted to pick up bilsteins and BMR handling, but a part of me knows I won’t be fully happy. So I just bidded my time until now to pull the trigger. I know myself too well. This 1st mod will trigger me into a rabbit hole (from my ebm days). But fortunately, the car is mine now and I have funds in hand to play.
Looking forward to everyone’s review on this. I want a one and done kind of suspension upgrade.
I also own Ohlins but I wouldn't recommend them for daily car. Mostly because the spring rates especially on the front (515 lbs) are a lot for a daily driven car. But also because coilovers and Ohlins are not for daily use. They have a very tide maintenance schedule think 20 000 miles or so which makes them not usable for a daily driver. If you are driving a lot and want a comfortable ride your best bet is to stay stock or get into springs/shocks package preferably softer rates. I honestly think 200/800 springs are the best daily combo you can get. From my driving of different suspension setups the one I like the most is the Mach 1 MR setup it's amazing on the street very compliant and is also good on track. Mach 1 rates are close to 200/800 so this is why I think 200/800 will be the best. Also for a daily driver there is no point in spending 3000$ on coilovers when you are not going to get the maximum out of them.
 

guitrflip

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I also own Ohlins but I wouldn't recommend them for daily car. Mostly because the spring rates especially on the front (515 lbs) are a lot for a daily driven car. But also because coilovers and Ohlins are not for daily use. They have a very tide maintenance schedule think 20 000 miles or so which makes them not usable for a daily driver. If you are driving a lot and want a comfortable ride your best bet is to stay stock or get into springs/shocks package preferably softer rates. I honestly think 200/800 springs are the best daily combo you can get. From my driving of different suspension setups the one I like the most is the Mach 1 MR setup it's amazing on the street very compliant and is also good on track. Mach 1 rates are close to 200/800 so this is why I think 200/800 will be the best. Also for a daily driver there is no point in spending 3000$ on coilovers when you are not going to get the maximum out of them.
My daily commute of 35-45 minutes (one-way)and it’s almost always canyon runs. So my goal is comfort but predictable handling. Thank you for pointing about the maintenance! That’s also something I need to consider when owning these COs. Maintenance of these COs every 20k Km or 20k mi will make me want to find a local shop to repetitively rebuild them for me.
From the looks of it 200-300F and 800-1000R spring rates are roughly at the edge of street comfort depending what kind of much tolerance of comfort your willing to trade for handling. Cost wise, I know there’s almost and always cheaper alternatives. My intention was to get a one-and-done kind of suspension with adaptability in every possible driving application.
 

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My daily commute of 35-45 minutes (one-way)and it’s almost always canyon runs. So my goal is comfort but predictable handling. Thank you for pointing about the maintenance! That’s also something I need to consider when owning these COs. Maintenance of these COs every 20k Km or 20k mi will make me want to find a local shop to repetitively rebuild them for me.
From the looks of it 200-300F and 800-1000R spring rates are roughly at the edge of street comfort depending what kind of much tolerance of comfort your willing to trade for handling. Cost wise, I know there’s almost and always cheaper alternatives. My intention was to get a one-and-done kind of suspension with adaptability in every possible driving application.
Fwiw- the 200/800 springs I know of all drop the car an inch. I don't see a point in dropping the car an inch and only marginally increase the spring rate over stock. It may actually handle worse. You are changing the stock suspension geometry. The Mach1 is designed for the springs it has and has MR. Yours is designed for neither. The MR will help the compliance a lot too.

I would at least go to the GT350R springs and FP dampers to make it worthwhile, or do what I did, the BMR handling springs. But as I said, I think the Ohlins rides even better than those despite the huge front spring. You really don't feel it that much IMO. When I first drove it I was shocked. The bigger ride penalty is with really stiff rear springs. The most time you will feel the effect of a stiff front spring is when you hit a really sharp jut in the road. And the base suspension won't feel good over those either. The Mustang is a heavy car. It's under sprung from the factory.

Actually increasing handling, you want to do it right and take relevant factors into consideration. And yes it is a COMPROMISE. There is no such thing as a free lunch. It depends on what kind of roads you usually drive on. If you're in the city or you drive on rough roads on the daily, just stay stock or just replace the dampers and/or install some minimum drop spring. I really need more info to help you.
 

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I also own Ohlins but I wouldn't recommend them for daily car. Mostly because the spring rates especially on the front (515 lbs) are a lot for a daily driven car. But also because coilovers and Ohlins are not for daily use. They have a very tide maintenance schedule think 20 000 miles or so which makes them not usable for a daily driver. If you are driving a lot and want a comfortable ride your best bet is to stay stock or get into springs/shocks package preferably softer rates. I honestly think 200/800 springs are the best daily combo you can get. From my driving of different suspension setups the one I like the most is the Mach 1 MR setup it's amazing on the street very compliant and is also good on track. Mach 1 rates are close to 200/800 so this is why I think 200/800 will be the best. Also for a daily driver there is no point in spending 3000$ on coilovers when you are not going to get the maximum out of them.
The part where I agree with you is on the maintenance schedule. That would be a PITA. Although, I do not really think you need to get them rebuilt every 20K miles. I think Ohlins is being a lot conservative on that. And I don't think 200/800 is worth it because you'll be dropping the car an inch and changing the geometry- reducing roll resistance and worsening the front camber curve. So in effect, you're going backwards and then trying to gain it back. Better dampers and bigger anti-roll bars may make up for that, though. It's just not what I would do, personally.
 

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My intention was to get a one-and-done kind of suspension with adaptability in every possible driving application.
Then ohlins is your answer. There are dozens of ohlins service centers in Cali

20k is about 2 years. That's right on target. You're not supposed to wait till you've destroyed the shock seals. Get shock socks and that will help to keep things clean.
 

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guitrflip

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Fwiw- the 200/800 springs I know of all drop the car an inch. I don't see a point in dropping the car an inch and only marginally increase the spring rate over stock. It may actually handle worse. You are changing the stock suspension geometry. The Mach1 is designed for the springs it has and has MR. Yours is designed for neither. The MR will help the compliance a lot too.

I would at least go to the GT350R springs and FP dampers to make it worthwhile, or do what I did, the BMR handling springs. But as I said, I think the Ohlins rides even better than those despite the huge front spring. You really don't feel it that much IMO. When I first drove it I was shocked. The bigger ride penalty is with really stiff rear springs. The most time you will feel the effect of a stiff front spring is when you hit a really sharp jut in the road. And the base suspension won't feel good over those either. The Mustang is a heavy car. It's under sprung from the factory.

Actually increasing handling, you want to do it right and take relevant factors into consideration. And yes it is a COMPROMISE. There is no such thing as a free lunch. It depends on what kind of roads you usually drive on. If you're in the city or you drive on rough roads on the daily, just stay stock or just replace the dampers and/or install some minimum drop spring. I really need more info to help you.
I'm willing to compromise comfort versus handling. At the end of the day, these are sports cars meant to be enthusiastically driven. The purpose of my inquiries were how reliable Ohlin are when it comes to performance over the period of tme (years). And by performance, I mean the feeling of confident and predictable handling on different types of curves, turns, and uphill/downhill responses. Some would say "driving like it's on rails." That's what I'm after without the sacrifice of poor dampening or recoil from road conditions. I've read a lot of people lauded FP and Bilstein dampeners. But still changed their suspension into Ohlin or other coil overs over the years for adjustability and adaptability because they've realized it was better in their opinion and have paved the way for people like me.
My thoughts are the same as yours, these cars are HEAVY, so there's a need of extra effort of making them better handlers.
I honestly, don't want to lower my car, I could careless about that. Let's just say I'm planning on pairing up these with either 20x10 Volks TE37 (+30 - 24lbs/wheel ) or Advan GT 20x10 +35mm (21 lbs/ wheel - YAY less unsprung weight). I may go 18x10 or 19x10.
 

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Then ohlins is your answer. There are dozens of ohlins service centers in Cali

20k is about 2 years. That's right on target. You're not supposed to wait till you've destroyed the shock seals. Get shock socks and that will help to keep things clean.
Thank you for this! That's a relief.
 

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Fwiw- the 200/800 springs I know of all drop the car an inch. I don't see a point in dropping the car an inch and only marginally increase the spring rate over stock. It may actually handle worse. You are changing the stock suspension geometry. The Mach1 is designed for the springs it has and has MR. Yours is designed for neither. The MR will help the compliance a lot too.
I'm trying to keep the wheel suspension geometry to 27.3 inch diameter from factory as much as possible. I have the 18x9 +40 or 44 (24lb per wheel 5-spoke OEM) at the moment.
As i said, bone stock for the past 6 years.
 

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As i said, bone stock for the past 6 years
Dude, it's about bloody time! I overhauled the suspension on my car within 6 months of buying it, it's deficiency was that obvious.

The fp/Bilstein solution works for most people who don't want to get carried away. Ohlins etc are for those of us who are a little more mental.

Ask j&m if there is an option to use a longer piston shaft. You could then get some of that 1" back. The pistons at rest should not be topped out, it needs to be about 25%. I don't know if the 1" drop is a mechanical limit, or just a setup choice. If latter a couple turns of preload can help.
 

guitrflip

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Dude, it's about bloody time! I overhauled the suspension on my car within 6 months of buying it, it's deficiency was that obvious.

The fp/Bilstein solution works for most people who don't want to get carried away. Ohlins etc are for those of us who are a little more mental.

Ask j&m if there is an option to use a longer piston shaft. You could then get some of that 1" back. The pistons at rest should not be topped out, it needs to be about 25%. I don't know if the 1" drop is a mechanical limit, or just a setup choice. If latter a couple turns of preload can help.
Haha, i think remember talking to you about Bilstein a year or two ago. I almost bought it, but what stopped me was the idea of trading my car in for a 2023 BMW Supra M/T (er i mean Toyota)... But the deal went sour, dealer wanted me to pay $10K more. Car inflation happened this year, so i just decided to just stick with my beloved reliable V8 mustang.
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