How to remove Driveline and Motor and 6060 trans conversion.

[doodguy]

With the fuel line removed, I thought it would be a good idea to clip my steel braided clutch line where the factory fuel line use to be.

Now due to the depth of the frame, and being able to put the plastic shielding back on you have to run the fore fuel lines along the brake lines. So run the lines from the top of the fuel tank down along the brake lines through the drivers side wheel well up into the engine bay.

In my case, I had 2 fuel lines. One is noticeably thicker than the other. I connected the fore fuel filter at the part where I had the most depth for protection from the ground up towards the front of the car.

Now this part sucked. There is plastic sheathing in the middle of the steel braided line. If you're not careful this thing becomes like a chinese finger trap and tightens up gets hard to fit the brass ring inside it. This is hard to describe but if you look inside the brass ring there are like 3 ridges. You want to put this brass ring over the plastic sheathing but on the inside of the steel braided line to the 3rd ridge. Then you slide the black fitting inside the steel braided line and screw it together. Next you screw this into the fuel filter etc. If anyone could PM me a good youtube video for how to do this I will edit this with that information.

With the lines in place, connect the lines. The fat line (Line with the fuel filter) goes from Feed on the fuel pump to the rear drivers side fuel rail. Then you make a connection with the thinner line from the drivers side front fuel rail to the passenger side front fuel rail. Finally you connect from the passenger side rear fuel rail to your regulator where it does not have a label. Lastly, you connect the thin fuel rail from your gas tank to the regulator labeled return.

I will attach a diagram to try to clarify this. Sorry for it not being very neat.

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[Beef]

Love in depth builds like this....

 

[doodguy]

With the fuel lines in place, time to run wiring.

I wanted to find a place that would let me keep my spare tire and look clean. I found this bar on the drivers side top of my trunk I drilled 2 small holes through and used self tapping screws to mount the Fore controller.

With the controller mounted, I began by running a power wire. I ran this wire under the rear seat, zip tied it along the bundle of wires that runs the front of the seat, routed the wire under the pasenger side plastic into the engine bay. From there I cut the red power lead mounted the fuse, and bolted it to the same power lead the battery power wire travels to.

With power wire mounted, I moved to ground. The fuel relay on the drivers side has 2 nuts holding it to the chassis. The nut on the right seems to be part of chassis ground. I mounted the negative cable here.

Next, I ran the single pump (2 wire) from the fuel pump to Pump 1 on the controller.

Now, I ran the 4 wire for pumps 2 and 3 from the fuel pump to pump 2 and 3 on the controller.

To activate pump 1 as if it were the stock fuel pump I tied a wire from the yellow/grey wire on the fuel pump relay to Remote 1 on the fuel controller.

In order to activate pumps 2 and 3, I wired the hobbs switch the same route I ran the Fore controller power wire, and spliced one of the wires into "Remote 1" and the other wire to "Remote 2". Be sure to tin all wires. The two wires I could not tin were the power and ground wire connecting to the fore controller.

The last thing I wired was the fuel pump relay. If you look at the connector that went to the factory fuel pump you will see 4 wires. The 2 smaller wires get spliced into the 2 black fore fuel system wires. I doesn't matter which wire goes to which.

 

[doodguy]

My Long Block has been built and 6060 Transmission is here. I started the install this morning.

The first thing I did was reinstall the water pump.

While the motor was out of the engine, I installed my RXT Clutch and lightened steel flywheel. Since I am installing a 6060 transmission I had previously sent my clutch discs to McLeod to be re-splined to 26 spline.

First thing to do is position the flywheel and spin it until all bolt holes lined up. Use blue loctite and Torque these (ARP) bolts to 70 ft lbs in a star pattern. While torquing these bolts have someone place a breaker bar on the crank pulley and hold it in place while torquing these bolts.

Next, install the floater plate with the "bottom" clutch disk. Ensure the word bottom faces the rear of the car when putting it on and installing the floater plate. Torque the floater plate bolts to 54ft lb in a star pattern and be sure to use blue loctite, and have someone hold the crank pulley while tightening these bolts.

Spin the bottom disc make sure it moves freely at this point.

Now install the top plate. You will notice a painted line; ensure the painted line linesup between the floater plate and top plate. Install the top plate loosely with a washer then a locking nut and finally the supplied bolts. Ensure that the wording "top disc" faces towards the rear of the car. Put your clutch alignment tool in, and ensure both the top and bottom disc spin freely. If they do go ahead and snug down the bolts on the top plate until all metal fingers in the middle are lowered and the discs no longer move. Then torque to 25ft lbs in a star pattern.

Next I positioned the motor inside the engine bay, installed my Pypes Long tube headers, and reattached the motor mounts. Once all bolts were tight, I lowered and guided the engine onto the factory motor mounts, and tightened the bolt on both the passenger and drivers side.

 

[doodguy]

I began my wiring job with the engine ground. Once that was securely fastened, I took the main wiring harness and plugged it into the ECU.

From there, I followed the harness along the to top of the engine by the spark plugs and fuel injectors ensuring every wire was where it will need to be.Keep in mind there are 3 connectors on the drivers side and 3 connectors on the passenger side at the rear of the motor that have to be plugged in. I plugged these in.

Next I decided to work on the intercooler. Whipple suggests separating the knock sensor wires so that one wire goes down each side of the motor and meets at the back of the motor. After separating these wires, I placed the intercooler in its spot, and tightened it down.

 

[bklynpanman]

Awesome. Any pics of that Hobbs switch ?

 

[doodguy]

Awesome. Any pics of that Hobbs switch ?

Not yet. Will post up where i connect it soon

 

[tsloms]

Not yet. Will post up where i connect it soon

Where did you end up installing the Hobbs switch?

 

[doodguy]

The whipple intake manifold has a bolt on driver and bolt on passenger side. I plumbed a vacuum line off drivers side to vacuum block which I got off amazon. I plumbed everything in there

 

[esacteksab]

Where did you end up installing the Hobbs switch?

Mounted mine on the side of the battery box http://i.imgur.com/2amzUu6.jpg

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