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How to remove Driveline and Motor and 6060 trans conversion.

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doodguy

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Remove both cables from the battery, as well as the battery retaining bracket bolt.

Lift battery out of tray, and also remove the battery tray metal sheathing.
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With the battery removed, go ahead and remove the starter. MAKE SURE you have the battery removed or the starter power wires will shock/burn you.

Start by removing the 2 power wires from the back of the starter.

With the 2 power wires removed, if you follow the starter with your fingers you will see there are 3 bolts holding the starter in place. Go ahead remove these 3 bolts.
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Here I will show you how to remove the Steeda Tri Ax short throw shifter. The stock shifter is fairly similar, and should make sense as you go through this process.

First, there is a plastic panel on the driver and passenger side that you remove by pulling from the front most portion of the panel and back towards you.

Next remove the shifter ball by twisting it counter clockwise.

With the shifter ball removed, pull up on the plastic piece that holds the shifter boot on. This is a bit difficult to pull up on and may even feel like you are breaking something. Just pull up from the front most portion to release this piece.

Now you will see 3 allen head screws securing the shifter boot to the reverse lock out collar of the shifter. Remove these 3 bolts and then take the shifter boot off the car.

Remove the Black plastic rubber from around the shifter base by just pulling up on it.

Next, you will see 2 bolts on the driver and passenger side securing the center console to the front of the vehicle. Remove these 2 bolts, ensure the parking break is set, use a screwdriver or something to assist you with removing the center console. Open the storage area of the center console and pry up on each side from the rear to loosen the clips on the center console. Work your way forwards until the center console is almost ready to be removed. Now remove the 2 electrical harnesses from the bottom of the console and remove the console.

Now remove the factory cotton sound deadening/heat resistant piece.

Go under the car, and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the shifter to the car.

At this point there is one bolt securing the Steeda shifter to the transmission and 1 bolt holding the shifter assembly to the transmission. You loosen this bolt and when it is loose enough it is a pin that you just pull up towards the sky to release.

Now the shifter is removed and we can continue removing the transmission.
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Now that the shifter is removed it is time to remove the transmission. The transmission is actually a fairly easy removal just time consuming.

Look around the transmission and disconnect the bolts around the perimeter of the bellhousing. There are 2 bolts on the top that are a little tricky to get to. What I did for these is use a long 3 ft extension with a swivel and had a friend hold the socket on the bolts, while I broke them loose with a breaker bar and then proceeded to remove them.

With all bolts loose, I lowered the transmission jack a little while my friend pried the transmission away from the motor with a crow bar. If you have difficulty separating the transmission try raising the transmission jack to make the angle more level with the motor so it can slide straight out.
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Now that we have the driveline out of the way, lets flush the engine oil out of the car, remove the front wheels, and remove the Front bumper.

The front bumper is actually simple to remove. First, remove the radiator shroud by removing the single prop bolt securing the prop rod to the front of the car, and then remove all push pin retainers along the shroud.

With the shroud removed, slide under the front of the car, and remove all bolts securing the plastic to the under carriage of the car.

Next remove all 8 bolts from the top center of the bumper. Take note along the top of the bumper there is 1 bolt on each side of the bumper you access by pulling the rubber back to expose the bolts.

Finally, remove a few of the clips securing the wheel liner to expose the final bolt holding the bumper on. With this bolt removed, pull outward slightly on the bumper to release it from the body.
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After the bumper is completely loose, unplug the headlights/fog lights then go to the front center of the car, lift up on the bumper and walk backward to remove it.

With the bumper removed, position a bucket below the radiator drain, and turn the valve counter clockwise to drain the engine coolant.

While the coolant is draining, disconect the clips holding the main wire harness to the support.

Next, remove the 8 bolts (4 per side) holding the bumper support on.

With the bumper support removed, you should also remove the air ducts.
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Now lets remove the entire upper intake assembly from the car.

If you still have an air lid on your roush setup, remove it. With the lid removed, unscrew the clamp holding the air filter in. Unscrew the clamp holding the air filter box to the air inlet tube. Remove the bolt holding the air box to the fender well. Remove the mass air flow sensor plug.

Remove the 2 electrical connectors from the throttle body, and remove the air inlet tube as well as the full air intake assembly.

With the throttle body now visible, remove the 4 bolts holding the throttle body to the roush supercharger elbow. There is 1 bolt per corner.

Remove the Roush Supercharger Elbow. There is 1 bolt per corner again.

Remove the Roush Supercharger pulley. Place a large breaker bar on the tensioner, push to the right towards the drivers side of the car, and remove the belt from the supercharger pulley.
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With the coolant drained, time to remove the degas bottle. There are just 2 bolts in the front holding it to the car, and 3 hoses attached to the bottle. 1 on bottom, one on front, and one on the back. Remove these hoses.

To remove the intercooler, if you are facing the front of the car, on the left side is a hose. Remove the hose clamp and remove the hose trying to catch any coolant that comes out (There will be a lot) in a bucket. It may be worthwhile to put down a lot of cardboard to soak up all the coolant that will spill.

Remove the clamp and hose from the drivers side front of the intercooler.

Remove the 4 bolts securing the intercooler, and then remove the intercooler from the bottom. There are 2 bolts on top and 2 on bottom.
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Remove the Cooling fans, radiator, and AC Condenser.

The cooling fans have 1 electrical connector. Unplug this connector. There are also 2 bolts; 1 per side at the top of the fans holding the fans in place. Remove these 2 bolts and then pull the fans up and remove them.

With the fans out of the way, remove the intercooler reservoir. This is attached by 2 hoses and 2 bolts.

Now remove the hoses from the radiator.

There are 2 bolts on the passenger side of the AC Condenser attaching the AC lines to the condenser. There is one on top and one on bottom. Remove these.

Now there are just 4 small bolts holding the radiator and condenser in 2 per side. Remove these bolts, then pull the condenser and radiator up and remove them. Take note at the bottom of the radiator are these rubber feet that cushion the radiator from vibration while sitting on the chassis. I had one of these fall off. I grabbed it put back into place. Its no big deal just be careful not to drop these little feet and lose them. For clarity they are about 4 inches long each so they're not tiny.
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With the cooling system and ac condenser removed, lets remove the front core support.

If you look right in the center where the hood latch is, there is a cable attached to the hood latch. Undo the cable, and un route it from the core support and set it aside.

On the top passenger side front are 2 electrical connectors. Undo these connectors, remove the wiring, and set it aside.

There are 4 main bolts per side that hold the core support to the frame. Remove these bolts.
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You may have noticed in previous pictures the blower was already removed. That is because I am re-sorting the pictures in this tutorial to better describe how I would do this if I were to do it again.

Lets focus on removing the Roush Blower. It is actually pretty simple. Disconnect the black tubes (1 on each side) running from the supercharger to the header. Remove all bolts along the driver and passenger side of the blower to get it loose. Disconnect all hoses from the back of the super charger. The passenger side has 2 electrical connectors which I found tough to get off. Fortunately, there is a top and bottom bolt to this connector. Disconnect these bolts, and you can pull this whole connector assembly out. With all bolts and connections loose, lift up and remove the supercharger. It is a little heavy.
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Lets disconnect the hose that goes to the thermostat.

Next, lets remove the Roush supercharger belt tensioner assembly. This is held on by 3 bolts. With these bolts removed, Turn the tensioner for the main drive pulley, remove that from around the crank, alternator, and finally completely remove the Roush Supercharger belt.

Remove the coolant line going to the intercooler as well as the coolant line that goes to the water pump. Each of these is held on by 2 bolts.

Remove the additional coolant hose going to the engine as well as undo the 2 bolts holding the thermostat in place.
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Now I will shift focus back to the fuel rails. Something I should have done when I started this project was to purge the fuel system. The easiest way to do this is lift up and remove the back seat. On the floorboard on the drives side you will see a connector. With the car running disconnect this connector, and let the car stall and die. Try to start it again and let it push any fuel it has remaining out.

If you didn't release the fuel pressure thats ok. Just take a rag, disconnect the fuel pressure disconnect line, remove the 4 bolts holding the fuel rails on (2 per side) and remove all 8 electrical connectors (1 per fuel injector). These are really easy to remove. Pull up on the red tab, push down on the black plastic tab and pull the relevent connector out.

After you remove all electrical connectors, remove the fuel rails. Take note that each injector may have an o ring on them. Please take note so we don't lose any of these o rings.

Now would be a good time to go ahead and remove the air to water intercooler.
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Unbolt the Supercharger Idler Pulley.

Disconnect the main coolant hose to get it out of the way.

Unbolt and remove the last remaining coolant hose.

Remove the 3 bolts for the water pump pulley. I didn't have a belton so I used my impact gun and they popped loose without issue.

Remove the final pulley and all bolts from the remaining bracket.
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