How to remove Driveline and Motor and 6060 trans conversion.

[doodguy]

Remove the bolt holding the main drive tensioner.

Remove the Alternator. There are 2 bolts holding the alternator on,and a couple of electrical connectors on the back of the alternator. Remove those electrical connectors.

Un-plug the knock sensors.

Remove the heater hose, and set aside.

Unbolt the engine ground from the passenger side engine mount.

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[doodguy]

Un-plug the electrical connector going to the AC compressor. Unbolt the AC compressor and set aside.

 

[doodguy]

Disconnect the steering column to get it out of the way. Inside the car at the bottom of the steering wheel by the floor are 2 nuts. Remove these.

Under the car, the steering shaft attaches by a star screw. Remove this, and then pull up towards the top of the car to remove the steering shaft. *note* remove the star screw completely or this will not want to come off. Even with star screw completely removed you may have to pry on this with a pry bar a little.

 

[doodguy]

Beginning with the driver and passenger side valve covers, unplug the 2 connectors on each side, and begin removing the wiring harness from head.

Remove the ground for the intercooler pump, and remove all 8 electrical connectors for the spark plug coils.

Remove the electrical connector from the fuse panel that provides power to the intercooler pump.

Disconnect the main wiring harnesses connection to the ECU as well.

Remove any other electrical connectors that would hinder you from completely removing the harness from the top of the engine.

At the passenger side front bottom of motor there is a bolt holding the electrical harness to the motor. Remove this.

Disconnect the engine ground.

Follow along the oil pan remove any point the electrical harness is attached to the oil pan.

Remove the connector to the oil pan.

There are 2 connectors on the back of each head. Unclip these connectors and move the upper wiring harness completely out of the way.

 

[doodguy]

Now you should be free to remove the motor. Take an engine hoist and connect the front of the motor to the engine with 2 1.5 inch 8x1.25 bolts. Connect the rear of the engine to the hoist with 2 1.5 inch 10x1.5 bolts.

Jack the engine hoist up slowly, double and triple checking it is not snagging anywhere.

Un bolt the 2 bolts (1 each side) holding the motor mounts to the motor.

Jack the motor up higher, and if you have long tube headers, remove the engine mount from each side along with the headers. If I remember there are only 8 bolts per side holding the headers on. Really straight forward. Just remove the bolts and take the headers off, and then finish removing the motor from the engine bay.

Remove the Clutch, and then you can connect the engine to engine stand with 4 3 inch 10x1.5 bolts.

 

[dev1360]

I appreciate the amount of time it took to do all of this, and this information will ultimately help people in removing specific parts in the future, but why not just drop the entire K member? It would have taken much less time and given the same access to parts.

 

[doodguy]

I appreciate the amount of time it took to do all of this, and this information will ultimately help people in removing specific parts in the future, but why not just drop the entire K member? It would have taken much less time and given the same access to parts.

I don't know how to do that. I imagine it would fall on me undoing those bolts from the bottom? I also don't have a lift so don't know where to begin. I'm not a mechanic. If you have guidance on how to do that in agone garagei would be all ears. I put up a ton of posts asking how before i started this never got advised how. With no lift id imagine it's not doable?

 

[dev1360]

You use the engine lift to raise the body away from the cradle, which you leave on the ground.

Undo wiring, struts, brakes, AC, driveshaft, coolant lines and exhaust. Then undo cradle bolts and suspension, engine, and transmission drop out of the bottom all in one piece.

 

[doodguy]

Where on body do you hook engine lift?

Are the cradle bolts on bottom or top? What keeps cradle from falling on you once you undo the bolts? Id love to lear how to do this way. Ive heard of it but never done it.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

Where on body do you hook engine lift?

Are the cradle bolts on bottom or top? What keeps cradle from falling on you once you undo the bolts? Id love to lear how to do this way. Ive heard of it but never done it.

When I parted out my old Mercury Sable, I took the whole front end of the car off, down to the bumper support. I supported the bumper support with straps, and used an engine hoist to lower the entire car (with rear wheels for pivot points, but no front suspension) so that the subframe (same as the K-member) was resting on a furniture dolly. I disconnected all wiring, hoses, AC, etc, then undid the subframe bolts, and used the engine hoist to lift the entire body up and over the engine, then just rolled the entire subframe, transmission and all, out of the way.

That said, this write-up is awesome. It reads like a Chilton's manual that doesn't suck!

JR

 

[doodguy]

When I parted out my old Mercury Sable, I took the whole front end of the car off, down to the bumper support. I supported the bumper support with straps, and used an engine hoist to lower the entire car (with rear wheels for pivot points, but no front suspension) so that the subframe (same as the K-member) was resting on a furniture dolly. I disconnected all wiring, hoses, AC, etc, then undid the subframe bolts, and used the engine hoist to lift the entire body up and over the engine, then just rolled the entire subframe, transmission and all, out of the way.

That said, this write-up is awesome. It reads like a Chilton's manual that doesn't suck!

JR

Thanks!

As I put it all back together I will add more to this, with pictures and torque specs of every bolt. I am almost done with the Triple pump Fore fuel system install, and I will be adding that to this as well. That way if anyone wants to tear everything apart and build a kickass machine, they can follow this bolt by bolt on how to do it.

 

[doodguy]

During this downtime with the motor out I decided to open up the front grill a bit. Its pretty simple.

1) Remove bumper
2) There are plastic clips around the upper grill holding it in. Lift up on each clip while pulling the grill back towards you and work each clip around the entire grill.
3) With the grill out look at the back, you will see indentations for each honeycomb of the grill. Use a dremel, dremel along these lines, cutting out each honey comb. It is a little time consuming but not terrible. When you are done, use some sandpaper to clean up any rough edges from the back for a cleaner look.

 

[doodguy]

At this point I figured there is no better time to do the Fore triple pump fuel system install. Keep in mind this write up is a complete teardown and re-build so your setup may be mildly different. Took me a bit to wrap my mind around this install but its pretty clear when you think it through.

The first thing I did was remove the rear seat. You do this one side at a time. Pick a side (Driver or passenger) and in the middle of the seat push towards the back of the car and lift up. Shouldn't be very hard. Do this on each side and lift the seat up and out.

With the seat out of the way you will see a rubber covering on the drivers side. Pry up on the edges and this will come up pretty easily exposing the factory fuel pump.

At this time you may opt to siphon the fuel out of your tank. If you do, stick a small funnel into the gas tank, and slip a siphon hose through the funnel down into the tank. This avoids the siphon hose getting stuck inside the tank.

Remove the electrical connector going to the fuel pump as well as the fuel line. The fuel line has 2 plastic clips on it. Pry these off and then it will slide right off.

Now there is a black locking ring around the fuel pump. I would say get yourself a locking ring removal tool. Makes this very simple. This is the tool I used: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6599-Universal-Fuel-Sender/dp/B000F5LJ7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469277903&sr=8-2&keywords=ford+fuel+locking+ring+removal+tool

Now slowly lift the fuel pump up and out of the tank allowing any fuel to drain off the pump as well as avoiding bending or damaging the fuel level sensor.

The fuel level sensor will have 2 purple wires. Cut these wires, and then pry the white tab back to lift the fuel level sensor off of the factory fuel pump.

 

[doodguy]

The fore triple pump system has 2 black wires. Splice the purple wires you cut on the fuel level sensor into these wires. It doesn't matter which wire goes where.

Lower the Fore fuel pump into the gas tank, reinstall the locking ring around the fuel pump.

With the new fuel pumps in place the first thing I did was completely remove the factory fuel lines. This actually wasn't that hard at this point.

On the drivers side of the car towards the front, remove the heat shield that goes along where the header goes, follow the path towards the gas tank, and remove the 2 black shieldings along the way.

 

[doodguy]

With the shielding out of the way, you have to drop the front facing side of the fuel tank to pull the factory fuel line down and out.

To drop the fuel tank is pretty simple. Just use a long extension, and a star bit. There is one bolt holding the bracket that holds the fuel tank in per side.

Continue following the fuel line and removing it all the way to the engine bay.

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