Help with my OPG and Whipple install!!!

[ramirj2]

Hi!
“Finished” installing my Stage 2 with dual fans in conjunction with OPG,CG and ATI Damper.
After flashing the car, It started right up but very rough, tumbling and not able to keep a healthy idle.
I got the following codes;
P0098 – air intake temperature sensor 2 high
P0345 – camshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction
P0349 – camshaft position sensor A circuit intermittent
P0390 – camshaft position sensor B circuit malfunction
P0394 - camshaft position sensor B circuit intermittent
P068A – ECM Power relay load circuit – DE energized Performance too early (That one is the normal one after a flash)
I should have installed the OPG, CG before the Whipple in 2 stages but didn’t :doh:
Any way after contacting Whipple and looking back at the wiring ect. It seems I could have messed up the timing.
I thought that I followed the timing procedure correctly but apparently not.

Any inputs or help before I open up the timing cover would be appreciated.
Is there any other procedure available to check if the timing is not correct and how to put it back on track (other than the one to take the chains in and out with the marks)?
Thanks!

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[Super Werty]

That sucks but if it were mine I would have to reopen it and double check those timing marks. Last thing you want is a busted engine

On a side note what tool did you use to remove the OEM crank damper?

 

[Reds197]

Are you sure the sensors are plugged in on the phasers?

The other codes are nothing major right now.

 

[esacteksab]

I experienced this. It's was timed wrong. There's a step, the crank is at the 5 o'clock position. You take it one FULL turn, then to 12 o'clock. The first time I did it, I just took it from 5 to 12.

There's flat spot on the cam, you can put a wrench on this and move the cams. You'll need to tweak the crank position a smidge so the cams don't interfere with a piston, but it's all doable, scary, but doable.

 

[ramirj2]

Yep!

Same exact thing!

I did not turn one full turn on the driver side.

Car is alive now!

 

[ramirj2]

That sucks but if it were mine I would have to reopen it and double check those timing marks. Last thing you want is a busted engine

On a side note what tool did you use to remove the OEM crank damper?

3 Jaw puller 8"

 

[Roki187]

I experienced this. It's was timed wrong. There's a step, the crank is at the 5 o'clock position. You take it one FULL turn, then to 12 o'clock. The first time I did it, I just took it from 5 to 12.

There's flat spot on the cam, you can put a wrench on this and move the cams. You'll need to tweak the crank position a smidge so the cams don't interfere with a piston, but it's all doable, scary, but doable.

I also did the same thing and had to redo the job. What a pain.

 

[Roh92cp]

2 questions.

1. Any special trick to get that inner oil pickup bolt back in? I had a hard timing getting it out can't imagine how I will get it started and threaded back in.

2. I used the Ford Procedure for the timing. When I rotated the crank clockwise first time the keyway was at 12 o'clock the but the R1 mark on RH cam wasn't in place at the top so per instructions I rotated it one more full turn and then the R1 was in at the top. Two things didn't seem right though, one was the cams data marks on top were not all facing up? I read somewhere else they should both be facing up. The other was the dark links on the timing chain were not aligned with the R1 or at the bottom at the mark on the timing gear at this point. Should they have been in place aligned with those marks already? The instructions say to use thie dark links when putting the chains back on but I made my own reference marks at the 12 o'clock on the RH side and marks again at 5 o'clock for the LH side.

Right side

Left side

 

[Roki187]

You can bend a cloths hanger or a flat head driver to assist in holding the bolt in place while starting the threads.

The data matrix will NOT face up. That's only on 11-14 models.

 

[turbosc297]

I just my OPG yesterday, the inner pickup tube bolt was easier with the oil pump housing unbolted. Giving a couple millimeters wiggle room either way

 

[Roh92cp]

You can bend a cloths hanger or a flat head driver to assist in holding the bolt in place while starting the threads.

The data matrix will NOT face up. That's only on 11-14 models.

That's what I was hoping, thanks.

I just my OPG yesterday, the inner pickup tube bolt was easier with the oil pump housing unbolted. Giving a couple millimeters wiggle room either way

Thanks guys, I just made a tool to get that bolt in. It's a 10mm open and box end cut heated bent to my liking and welded back. I put a magnet into the box end so it holds the bolt in while you finagle the bolt into position. One or 2 tries and the first thread is started. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow.

 

[RockStang]

Hey Roh. I got your PM. Sounds like you got it already but I bought these wrenches and it was a life saver on that bolt.

 

[Roh92cp]

Thanks Joe, I just made a wrench with a magnet on the end.

 

[FIVE_LITER]

That bolt sucked. I just used a a small magnet to get it into place then held it with my finger then used the magnet to turn the bolt enough to get it started. Block tore the hell out of my fingers but got it done.

That one bolt is the only thing that sucks about doing oil pump gears. Rest of it is easy peasey.

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

Just did mine today. For That bastard bolt i stuffed a bunch paper towels in there under neath the bolt hole, i just kept building the paper towels up until it was almost like a
Spring board and then put the bolt in and the paper towels kept the bolt in the hole while i finally caught threads.

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