Help planning speaker upgrade - 2021 GTCS

[Evolvd]

Here’s my suggestion, sound deadener. You won’t believe how much better your stock speakers will sound if you deaden the doors. Now they won’t be reference quality but they’ll sound way better. The doors are acoustically trash so even slapping a better pair of speakers in there may get you a little better sound they’ll be so much better if you give them an environment to really perform.
After sound deadening then I’d say step up to better speakers and an amplifier.

Also, keep in mind the 3.5” and tweeter are wired together in parallel. If you plan to change them and use the stock amp you’ll need to match the ohm ratings. The 6.5” are 4 ohm so you can swap just about any speaker. Also don’t buy the metra speaker baffle rings, they suck. Look up “Sounds Good Stereo”, they sell a 3D printed set of baffles and they come with a OEM harness pigtail so you aren’t cutting any wires.

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[paulanswer240]

Hi All,
Been reading and trying to learn about the factory sound system but need some help. A lot of what I am reading is more high tech than I think I need or maybe just more than what I am used to. I've installed plenty of systems but this all older school - head units-RCAs-AMPS-Speaker stuff.

That being said, I've already added an amp and 12 sub in the trunk. Added the bass that was lacking from factory. happy with that portion but after a few months of use, I am hearing popping in cabin when volume is up 19+. under that level its really not to noticeable. BTW-its the 9 speaker set up, not the B&O. I started to look at replacement speakers but wanted to feedback as to what works and what doesn't. I figured a speaker replacement / upgrade would fix the noise I'm hearing. I'm not looking for a competition set up, just a middle of the road upgrade that would clean up the sound a bit more.

That being said, i was looking at the infinite reference series speakers, 6.5 for doors and rear deck, 3.5 for the mids and center and a set up tweeters. never used infinite speakers but i remember ppl raved about them back in the day, they still good?

I've used Apline type S speakers before and really liked the way they sounded. I've also used some higher end pioneer components that had good sound.

Is there anything that just works better for our cars?

TIA !

thank you so much for your commment!! helpful.

192.168.1.1
192.168.100.1​

 

[m3incorp]

Peter, I haven't heard the full Nelson term in many years.

Actually the midbass drivers are the better drivers in the stock system. If you really want to replace them I would ditch the stock amp and go full Nelson on DSP and amp.

 

[Cathul]

Maybe the wrong term. Probably means something different than it is used over here in Germany for.

 

[goldenpants]

Thank you for the helpful replies.

so instead I may be going with a component set of speakers since they come with a woofer instead of a full range and the 6.5 seems to have a lower freq response for better bass. I’m prob not going to use the tweeter since I don’t feel like opening that part as well.

regarding the 3.5’s i didn’t know they were wired in parallel with the tweeters, so does that mean I would have to find a 3.5 that’s 2ohm instead of 4 ohm? If I use a 4ohm will it make the whole system much quieter?

I may want to change the DSP and amp later so I want to do some upgrades in the door while I have it open

 

[Cathul]

Use the tweeter, the stock tweeter is crap.

 

[goldenpants]

Use the tweeter, the stock tweeter is crap.

do I need to plug in the crossover wiring or can I leave wiring as is and let the stock system run how it does now?

 

[Cathul]

You need to run new wires from crossover to tweeter, but that’s easy as they are in the pillars.

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

Here’s my suggestion, sound deadener. You won’t believe how much better your stock speakers will sound if you deaden the doors. Now they won’t be reference quality but they’ll sound way better. The doors are acoustically trash so even slapping a better pair of speakers in there may get you a little better sound they’ll be so much better if you give them an environment to really perform.
After sound deadening then I’d say step up to better speakers and an amplifier.

Also, keep in mind the 3.5” and tweeter are wired together in parallel. If you plan to change them and use the stock amp you’ll need to match the ohm ratings. The 6.5” are 4 ohm so you can swap just about any speaker. Also don’t buy the metra speaker baffle rings, they suck. Look up “Sounds Good Stereo”, they sell a 3D printed set of baffles and they come with a OEM harness pigtail so you aren’t cutting any wires.

Can you elaborate on what you did to sound deaden the doors? I have a couple ideas on what I was going to try, but I really don’t want to rip the doors apart over and over again. I have some 80mil butyl coming, like 18 square feet of it. I also have a bunch of 1 inch thick upholstery foam that’s 24” by 72”. I was going to trace the outline of the vapor barriers, cut the foam to match and use a spray adhesive to attach to the vapor barriers, so they would flop around way less from the speakers. This would allow them to still be removable in the same way if I ever need to get in there (window regulator, etc). Also was going to apply the butyl to the door panel itself as I have a rattle on the passenger side that I can’t seem to resolve.

 

[Evolvd]

Can you elaborate on what you did to sound deaden the doors? I have a couple ideas on what I was going to try, but I really don’t want to rip the doors apart over and over again. I have some 80mil butyl coming, like 18 square feet of it. I also have a bunch of 1 inch thick upholstery foam that’s 24” by 72”. I was going to trace the outline of the vapor barriers, cut the foam to match and use a spray adhesive to attach to the vapor barriers, so they would flop around way less from the speakers. This would allow them to still be removable in the same way if I ever need to get in there (window regulator, etc). Also was going to apply the butyl to the door panel itself as I have a rattle on the passenger side that I can’t seem to resolve.

You’ll need to pull the door panels to replace the speakers so might as well deaden them at the same time. Before you remove the panel outline it with masking tape so you have a reference for your sound deadener edge.
Use ice to harden the adhesive on the lower vapor barrier and it will peel away easier and allow you to reuse it. With that and the 6.5” removed you can reach all of the exterior skin to deaden it.
Use a leather punch to cut your holes for the panel mount pins and other random bolt heads and clip mounts. Vinyl transfer tape is good for tracing your outline and then transferring it to your deadener and reducing waste.
You don’t need to to foam the vapor barrier. A sheet of deadener cut to fit and applied to the exterior will prevent it from flapping. Also a piece on the backside of the door panel will help.
Here’s some pics of mine and another member’s doors deadened. Mine aren’t finished yet.

 

[goldenpants]

You need to run new wires from crossover to tweeter, but that’s easy as they are in the pillars.

is there an issue using a 4ohm midrange 3.5 speaker? considering it is in parallel

 

[Evolvd]

is there an issue using a 4ohm midrange 3.5 speaker? considering it is in parallel

You’re effectively lowering the resistance seen by the amp which would make it run hotter and possibly overload it. I’ve not seen anyone do this so I have no idea what actual results are but that’s the risk you’re taking. Plus the 3.5 and tweeter would be louder than the 6.5 and it’ll be unbalanced and sound like crap.

 

[goldenpants]

You’re effectively lowering the resistance seen by the amp which would make it run hotter and possibly overload it. I’ve not seen anyone do this so I have no idea what actual results are but that’s the risk you’re taking. Plus the 3.5 and tweeter would be louder than the 6.5 and it’ll be unbalanced and sound like crap.

So I should just change the woofer 6.5 and leave the rest alone if it works?

 

[Evolvd]

So I should just change the woofer 6.5 and leave the rest alone if it works?

If it were me and on a budget, yes. But honestly I don’t think you’ll be impressed with the sound. I’m still going to recommend you sound deaden the doors. A roll of Soundskins will run you $100 plus a roller and good Olfa knife. You’ll get much better sound from your stock speakers than you would by just upgrading the woofer and nothing else.

PM me if you have further questions. I’ve done all my own work and getting close to having my system ready for tuning.

 

[goldenpants]

If it were me and on a budget, yes. But honestly I don’t think you’ll be impressed with the sound. I’m still going to recommend you sound deaden the doors. A roll of Soundskins will run you $100 plus a roller and good Olfa knife. You’ll get much better sound from your stock speakers than you would by just upgrading the woofer and nothing else.

PM me if you have further questions. I’ve done all my own work and getting close to having my system ready for tuning.

I am purchased deadening material as well and I hope to replicate some of the excellent deadening you displayed with that picture you posted!

*edit* also, what have others done when wanting to just replace the speakers (no amp or other wiring changes) I see some people said to go with the infinity reference to replace the midrange 3.5's but that also seems to be 3ohms according to the specs.

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