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[8borerifle]

Thanks JTmat, that is what I was thinking too! I have 1 year and 14000 miles left on the 3 year/36mo warranty. I am retired and 68 years old. my 2015 Premium Ecoboost PP auto is the best car I ever owned. I did buy a 7/70 bumper to bumper warranty because of all of the electronics on the car. It has all of the safety electronics plus navigation and premium radio. MUCH nicer car than the Premum 2012 GT auto I traded. It feels almost as fast as a 1966 Belvedere II 426 Street Hemi I owned and way faster than a 1967 Jaguar XKE roadster I sold a few years ago. It would KILL the Jaguar on a road course! 50 more years technology makes a heck of a difference! The Hemi ran high 13's stock and 13 flat with 4:56 gears and slicks and ignition and carb modifications. The young guys don't realize how quick these new cars are compared to the 60's muscle cars. Sure you can make a Hemi run in the 11's on the street, my neighbor had one that had 4:89 gears, headers, electric fuel pumps and blueprinted. I drove the car a lot and it got 3 to 5 mpg with Sonoco 260 gas!

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[jbailer]

Thanks JTmat, that is what I was thinking too! I have 1 year and 14000 miles left on the 3 year/36mo warranty. I am retired and 68 years old. my 2015 Premium Ecoboost PP auto is the best car I ever owned. I did buy a 7/70 bumper to bumper warranty because of all of the electronics on the car. It has all of the safety electronics plus navigation and premium radio. MUCH nicer car than the Premum 2012 GT auto I traded. It feels almost as fast as a 1966 Belvedere II 426 Street Hemi I owned and way faster than a 1967 Jaguar XKE roadster I sold a few years ago. It would KILL the Jaguar on a road course! 50 more years technology makes a heck of a difference! The Hemi ran high 13's stock and 13 flat with 4:56 gears and slicks and ignition and carb modifications. The young guys don't realize how quick these new cars are compared to the 60's muscle cars. Sure you can make a Hemi run in the 11's on the street, my neighbor had one that had 4:89 gears, headers, electric fuel pumps and blueprinted. I drove the car a lot and it got 3 to 5 mpg with Sonoco 260 gas!

But remember when that gas was < $0.50 / gallon!

 

[8borerifle]

Very valid point on the .50 cent gas, and higher octane too! Minimum wage was $1.25/hour! Had 24,000 employees in the two local steel mills, one left that employs about 800!!!

 

[LuckyJerk]

Does having the UPR dual valve catch can good enough to protect from carbon build up? I do regular driving with spirited driving and next year would like to start doing autox.

 

[PRG3k]

Does having the UPR dual valve catch can good enough to protect from carbon build up? I do regular driving with spirited driving and next year would like to start doing autox.

You can't completely eliminate carbon buildup unless you run an AUX port injection system like Adam's E85 kit or a meth kit like the AEM. That added fuel or meth will kind of wash the valves for you. If you aren't prepared to do that then the dual catch can does a good job and is way better than nothing. You can take a couple of extra steps past it like gutting or replacing the PCV system and upgrading your check valves. There are upgraded PCV systems is for sale if you look. It requires taking the intake manifold off not too hard

 

[metalhead79]

We have camshafts for the Ecoboost. Esslinger Stage 2's. I'm building 3 engines right now and all 3 have Esslinger Stage 2's in it.

Do these change the exhaust note any? I had Crower cams on my '97 GT and it was an absolutely sick sounding exhaust.

I read the FRPP cams add almost no HP and don't change the sound any.

 

[LuckyJerk]

You can't completely eliminate carbon buildup unless you run an AUX port injection system like Adam's E85 kit or a meth kit like the AEM. That added fuel or meth will kind of wash the valves for you. If you aren't prepared to do that then the dual catch can does a good job and is way better than nothing. You can take a couple of extra steps past it like gutting or replacing the PCV system and upgrading your check valves. There are upgraded PCV systems is for sale if you look. It requires taking the intake manifold off not too hard

Yea I figured it would help to have port injection but I don't think I want to go to crazy with the upgrades. I have the Dual valve and was wondering if I should add anything else to complement it for added protection.
I've seen a clean side catch can that goes long with the dual valve.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-plug-n-play-clean-side-catch-can-ecoboost-15.html
Just wondering if its worth the added cost and if there is anything else that would be recommended.

 

[PRG3k]

Yea I figured it would help to have port injection but I don't think I want to go to crazy with the upgrades. I have the Dual valve and was wondering if I should add anything else to complement it for added protection.
I've seen a clean side catch can that goes long with the dual valve.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-plug-n-play-clean-side-catch-can-ecoboost-15.html
Just wondering if its worth the added cost and if there is anything else that would be recommended.

Gutting the PCV and/or installing the Full Race plate: http://www.full-race.com/store/ecoboost/ecoboost-2-3l-2-0l-catch-can-plate.html/ is a cost effective 'next step'.

Adam sells it in his PCV kit:
https://adamtuned.myshopify.com/col...her-kit-w-catch-can-for-2015-ecoboost-mustang

More info on gutting the PCV and why its beneficial:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18671&page=33

If you do it you should also upgrade the check valves that come with the catch can.

 

[LuckyJerk]

Gutting the PCV and/or installing the Full Race plate: http://www.full-race.com/store/ecoboost/ecoboost-2-3l-2-0l-catch-can-plate.html/ is a cost effective 'next step'.

Adam sells it in his PCV kit:
https://adamtuned.myshopify.com/col...her-kit-w-catch-can-for-2015-ecoboost-mustang

More info on gutting the PCV and why its beneficial:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18671&page=33

If you do it you should also upgrade the check valves that come with the catch can.

Yup I have seen both of these on both websites before lol. I actually bought my dual catch can from Adams website.
Maybe you might know because just looking at Adams kit kinda confuses me. I see the breather now has two ports (I'm guessing that pressure comes from one port into the catch can captures those oils and gunk in the catch can then the clean air is vented back into the crankcase through the second port) if that's the case then what happens to the spot at the intake manifold that the line from the original breather use to connect to?

 

[PRG3k]

Yup I have seen both of these on both websites before lol. I actually bought my dual catch can from Adams website.
Maybe you might know because just looking at Adams kit kinda confuses me. I see the breather now has two ports (I'm guessing that pressure comes from one port into the catch can captures those oils and gunk in the catch can then the clean air is vented back into the crankcase through the second port) if that's the case then what happens to the spot at the intake manifold that the line from the original breather use to connect to?

I don't have this kit, maybe he can chime in.

 

[Bennington]

Yup I have seen both of these on both websites before lol. I actually bought my dual catch can from Adams website.
Maybe you might know because just looking at Adams kit kinda confuses me. I see the breather now has two ports (I'm guessing that pressure comes from one port into the catch can captures those oils and gunk in the catch can then the clean air is vented back into the crankcase through the second port) if that's the case then what happens to the spot at the intake manifold that the line from the original breather use to connect to?

It's capped with a vacuum cap and a zip tie or clamp.

 

[lisandra]

While driving to/from work - 30 miles one-way, I had the A/P connected and observed random knock and more alarmingly my OAR dropping from -1.00 to literally 0 by the time I got home. Should either of these be a concern? I have not kept the A/P connected and monitoring in the past.

As you can see during the 45-60 min drive to work, I didn't exceed 5.56 psi of boost, yet had a knock count of 10.
That evening, while hitting 13 psi at some point, knock is lower but OAR is almost 0. This is on 91 Octane

I also see this. Wot no knock but cruising speeds at maaaaybe 30% throttle i get knock. Especially on steep hills. Anyone? My oar doesnt change from -1 tho

 

[5.0yote]

While driving to/from work - 30 miles one-way, I had the A/P connected and observed random knock and more alarmingly my OAR dropping from -1.00 to literally 0 by the time I got home. Should either of these be a concern? I have not kept the A/P connected and monitoring in the past.

As you can see during the 45-60 min drive to work, I didn't exceed 5.56 psi of boost, yet had a knock count of 10.
That evening, while hitting 13 psi at some point, knock is lower but OAR is almost 0. This is on 91 Octane

Bad gas? or definitely not 91 Octane... I had this happen at my last dyno day got a bad batch of fuel that definitely was not near 93 octane.

 

[navair133]

I also see this. Wot no knock but cruising speeds at maaaaybe 30% throttle i get knock. Especially on steep hills. Anyone? My oar doesnt change from -1 tho

Okay. I do not know if same problem. But...
Four days ago my car started to knock on moderate acceleration on the freeway. Let off gas a little then reapplied and had partial loss of power, oar gauge went haywire going from one end to the other, got off freeway immediately and took a look. Everything connected, no smoke from engine. Started car and loud clicking noise at idle, and tons of white smoke from exhaust, oddly mostly from left muffler.
Towed to dealership. 65,500 miles on the car. Luckily I have the 100k miles extended warranty. I assume blown engine, dealership service did too. So waiting for repair. I would have waited to know about final repair and possible cause before posting, but when I saw your comments thought I should provide some input. Mine had been knocking for the last few of weeks. Dealer originally thought then that it was bad gas...
Hopefully find out more tomorrow.

 

[PRG3k]

Okay. I do not know if same problem. But...
Four days ago my car started to knock on moderate acceleration on the freeway. Let off gas a little then reapplied and had partial loss of power, oar gauge went haywire going from one end to the other, got off freeway immediately and took a look. Everything connected, no smoke from engine. Started car and loud clicking noise at idle, and tons of white smoke from exhaust, oddly mostly from left muffler.
Towed to dealership. 65,500 miles on the car. Luckily I have the 100k miles extended warranty. I assume blown engine, dealership service did too. So waiting for repair. I would have waited to know about final repair and possible cause before posting, but when I saw your comments thought I should provide some input. Mine had been knocking for the last few of weeks. Dealer originally thought then that it was bad gas...
Hopefully find out more tomorrow.

Are you tuned/modded with a 100K mile warranty? If you are I want to go to the service dept. at your friendly, local dealership.

Its only a 4 cylinder so most crap comes out of the left muffler.

Could be detonation from bad gas. All this partial throttle detonation leads me to ask what gears and speed are these at?

And anyone who has knocking with OAR at -1 I would reset it to 0 and try to bring it all the way back down and see if the gas will allow it. It also sounds like an event that would be easy to data log.

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