Crankshaft snout snapped

[tsloms]

I do not buy that. I think it would throw the belts if the balancer was not on all the way. What do you think caused the one inthe thread below to break?

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1975687#post1975687

Keep in mind that the balancer will be going on straight but not completely. It won't wobble to through belts but will be slightly misaligned which can show up as a belt squeal but not always though. If the balancer is only a few thousandths from the timing gear it will allow the crank snout to wobble in operation and potentially break it.

I'd like to see pics of that crank. It's interesting to hear that it broke lengthwise. Not sure just where it broke until we get pics.

Sponsored

 

[isedawishy]

Mine has a crack that follows the key, but impossible to know which came first

 

[RubyRedBoost]

My guess is it was impacted on and the install bolt bottomed out. A few too many ugga duggas will do that. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen a balancer installed that way.

 

[isedawishy]

Ugga duggas lol

It's definitely possible if he was in a hurry or something. I suppose this time MPR will be putting the balancer on, so the chances of a bad install going forward is slim!

 

[Dauntless]

Not trying to jack this thread but thought I'd ask some questions while it's still going.

What are the odds of these cranks taking a shit like this? They're forged cranks, so is this an example of a just a faulty crank, or can we expect more of this type of stuff happening?

I saw Beefcake toss up some links for the MMR bolt, should I just go ahead and throw it in to be safe, or do we use the term here if it's not broken, don't fix it?

I'm running an F1-A 15 PSI 700+RWHP and I've had no problems for 2 years. Besides the belts snapping, most likely do to an alignment issue.

Any helpful feedback would be highly appreciated.

-Daunt.

 

[mustang_guy]

Anything can happen to any engine stock or modified. Things just happen and it sucks. I however honestly believe it's installer error 99% of the time.

 

[mustang_guy]

I'm not going to say for sure Op failure was install error, if I was a betting man I'd guess that though.

 

[tsloms]

Not trying to jack this thread but thought I'd ask some questions while it's still going.

What are the odds of these cranks taking a shit like this? They're forged cranks, so is this an example of a just a faulty crank, or can we expect more of this type of stuff happening?

I saw Beefcake toss up some links for the MMR bolt, should I just go ahead and throw it in to be safe, or do we use the term here if it's not broken, don't fix it?

I'm running an F1-A 15 PSI 700+RWHP and I've had no problems for 2 years. Besides the belts snapping, most likely do to an alignment issue.

Any helpful feedback would be highly appreciated.

-Daunt.

If you've been going strong for 2 years already for sure I'd leave well enough alone. That MMR washer I don't really see stabilizing the balancer if it does wobble. Fish oil

 

[olaosunt]

I can’t believe my luck with these cars ....but crank snapped yesterday in my Hellion TT.
Expensive motor too (MMR sleeved 5.2 /GT 350 heads). Also had an ATI balancer .

May be I jinxed my self by having a spare motor (at least I will have minimal downtime- no racing till April anyway )

Buddy is going to pick up car this weekend along with “spares “ .
Keeping it simple this time
I was able to salvage some parts from a previous failed motor (not this one obviously) so “spare” build was relatively cheaper .BES sleeved 5.0/stock GT heads and cams /18 intake

He will be doing the R&R . I am keeping my fingers crossed I can scavenge some parts to build a another spare but not holding my breath .

That’s why I have to get out of this hobby ....one more year and hope I keep my shirt .

Or rebuild and run !

 

[Mustanggt5.02011]

Are the OPG, CS and ATI balancer warranty-able?



It had an ARP crank bolt. Installer used red loctite and torqued it down per spec.



Yep. It's been on the car about 1500 miles as well with many WOT pulls.



I figure if it was installed incorrectly it would have went a long while ago?



Won't be able to get the motor out for another week or so to really know what all needs replacing. I just don't want to throw in a new motor and it happens again. I'm unsure how to try to prevent this from happening, especially when I already had the parts which I thought would prevent.

Debating on a sleeved block and just going turbo... but that of course is a huge expense all at once.

Here's a couple more pics...

Sell that setup and go turbo. Much easier on parts. Make more power on less boost and its free power. Don't need to worry about breaking your crank. Get a used motor, or fix this one, then put a turbo kit on it. Let us know if we can help.

 

[olaosunt]

And this is the second time for me .
First time was an alluminator (I bought used ) in my 2012 - had a 2.9 Whipple with a 20 % OD.
I thought that failed due to its weight and hitting the rev limiter .
The one in this car was a stock size . I do have a 2 step on this car I have used several times at the strip and while testing my new brakes .

 

[DTeal23]

Wowwwww

 

[Jay-rod427]

Sell that setup and go turbo. Much easier on parts. Make more power on less boost and its free power. Don't need to worry about breaking your crank. Get a used motor, or fix this one, then put a turbo kit on it. Let us know if we can help.

You realize you responded right below a post where a turbo car broke a crank right?...

 

[Mustanggt5.02011]

OP was a centri

 

[whatsup62]

On the twin its got to be balancer related. Either it wasn't seated correctly or a fracture happened during the install I would think.

Sponsored