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Catch Cans, and Is there evidence???
- Thread starter lightNfast
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jbailer
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There are lots of companies that make very good oil separators/catch cans. I think like anything else, you have to step back and think of what you want, what you need and how much you're willing to pay.
UPR - Without a doubt, UPR always makes very nice CCs. Depending on your plans for your ecoboost, their DVCC may be the best choice. If you're raising the boost level and/or adding a DP, a clean side catch can may be needed.
Bob's Auto Sports - Arguably has some of the best technology and most efficient but usually at the price of features like appearance, ease of emptying, mounting and such. I know they make one for the GT, haven't seen one for the EB yet. Oh and they are usually the most expensive.
JLT - Fairly recent release of their 3.0 can which holds 3 oz of oil. I really wish this was available when I bought mine, I probably would have gone this route.
Mishimoto - Although it was a PITA to install. Mishi makes a good CC that is simple to empty and clean and they offer lots of color choices. I've had this on my car for almost 2 years, it's doing the job.
There's plenty of others too. Those are just some of the ones that come to mind right away.
Some things you want to look for in a CC when shopping are:
1. Baffling system - This will determine how effective the CC is. There is already a oil separator in the car from Ford. This is making a second attempt at it. It's a good idea to get one that is efficient, it's the whole reason you're putting it in. Some have no baffling, don't waste your money on them.
2. Ease of emptying - I would rate this above capacity because from my experience, you'll be emptying it pretty often so you want it easy to do. I empty minne every 2500 miles. Once at 5k oil changes and once right in between.
3. Capacity - If you get a small can, you'll be emptying it all the time plus there's a greater chance that it fills quicker. The last thing you want is that can filling to the point that the vacuum sucks in liquid into your intake.
4. Appearance - To some, they spend a lot of time with the hood up, there are many options for finish and color all the way to the hoses that connect it.
5. Price - They can be very cheap. From my experience (for the most part) you get what you pay for. Buy a really cheap CC and you probably wasted your money. They probably have no baffling. On the other hand, you could buy a super expensive CC while maybe one that worked pretty good that cost a lot less and was easier to empty might have sufficed.
2. Ease of emptying - I would rate this above capacity because from my experience, you'll be emptying it pretty often so you want it easy to do. I empty minne every 2500 miles. Once at 5k oil changes and once right in between.
3. Capacity - If you get a small can, you'll be emptying it all the time plus there's a greater chance that it fills quicker. The last thing you want is that can filling to the point that the vacuum sucks in liquid into your intake.
4. Appearance - To some, they spend a lot of time with the hood up, there are many options for finish and color all the way to the hoses that connect it.
5. Price - They can be very cheap. From my experience (for the most part) you get what you pay for. Buy a really cheap CC and you probably wasted your money. They probably have no baffling. On the other hand, you could buy a super expensive CC while maybe one that worked pretty good that cost a lot less and was easier to empty might have sufficed.
I'm sure there are other things and other manufacturers, hopefully others will chime in.
Marvinmadman
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No
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Marvinmadman
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Mine came with the slip on "beauty sleeves". Maybe someone who recently purchased one can chime in. I used some good hose clamps on all my boost connections though.
Maggneto
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We are on our third I4 DI Turbo (2 currently in the garage) and have not had a single problem with carbon build-up, hesitation, smoke, gas mileage, etc. Our cars are dealer serviced by the book, bone stock other than a drop in filter and only top tier gas is used. Our last DI Turbo had nearly 40k miles and ran perfect from 0 to 40k miles.
Carbon buildup was a problem on some older DI engines from Audi, BMW, etc, and a few 3.5 EB's but the vast majority EB's (5 million) don't have a catch cans and are running just fine into the 100k mile range. Ford tore down a 3.5 EB with 160k miles and found no problems.
I have nothing against catch cans or people who use them but as someone who actually drives multiple I4 DI Turbo's for the past 4 years I can tell you that I have not seen any evidence that catch cans are needed and have experienced ZERO problems running without a catch can.
Installing a catch can may void your warranty if the catch can causes engine failure for some reason. I read a post from a GT owner who blew his engine after installing a catch can and the dealer did honor the warranty but told him to NOT install another catch can on the new engine. There are also threads about GM denying warranty claims over catch cans.
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Marvinmadman
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No doubt that stock 2.3s shouldn't have too much of a problem. But being stock sucks.
Marvinmadman
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Operator error blew the engine*
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Dirty-EB-Chicago
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Maggneto
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The OP simply stated 200 miles after installing a CC the 5.0 engine blew. I think I read it on M6G.Catch can blew the engine??
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78025
Here are some the quotes from the post. I have it slightly wrong about when the CC was installed and there is no evidence the CC caused the engine failure.
"Just had to abandon my 2016 GTPP with 5k miles on the side of the road. I was starting out in first gear and I got on it a little, next thing I know it sounded like a chain snapped and I lost engine power. No leaks that I could see but my coolant was extremely low. Oil levels seemed high but I couldn't see any oil on the side you put it in. It also smelled. I tried to start the car again but it won't turn over. Engine wrench on and it says see owners manual.
I just changed the oil and catch can < 200 Miles ago, it's been fine, no warnings. Coolant was fine. My driveway shows no signs of a leak.
I've always had a clicking issue, like the BBQ tick. Did I throw a rod??? "
" My service adviser pleaded with me to not reinstall my catch can. He said Ford could have easily blamed the issue on it. He said he could understand if I were going to supercharge the car, but since I'm not I should leave it stock, which I intend on doing."
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Marvinmadman
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LuckyJerk
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Just felt like adding something to this thread. Here's a pic of what came out of my catch can after 2,000 miles. This is probably the third time I emptied it and there its been pretty much the same.
I use a UPR duel valve catch can and I'm glad this was one of the first things I bought. Just wish I bought this sooner!
I use a UPR duel valve catch can and I'm glad this was one of the first things I bought. Just wish I bought this sooner!
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We updated the worm gear to slip fit billet hose ends a long time ago and never updated the images. Thank you for pointing that out. The clamps weren't UPR Plug n Play™ Billet Hose Ends and I came out with many custom sizes to be able to offer a very secure fit for the UPR Plug n Play™ Catch Can Fittings and Braided Hose Sets.
Just a heads up, Joe
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