Another engine oil thread ... What do you use?

[mustang_guy]

Never tested their oil. Those guys and Penn Grade are on my list here pretty soon.

Grabber, how much is an intake cleaning at the dealer? $500? I once had a BMW guy tell me the RLI was too expensive but then he went on to tell me how he goes to the dealer for a walnut blast every 30,000 @$750 per service! Lol.

Walnut blasting at the bmw dealer I recently left as a master tech, it was 1200.

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[GrabberBlue5oh]

Never tested their oil. Those guys and Penn Grade are on my list here pretty soon.

Grabber, how much is an intake cleaning at the dealer? $500? I once had a BMW guy tell me the RLI was too expensive but then he went on to tell me how he goes to the dealer for a walnut blast every 30,000 @$750 per service! Lol.

All we do is a BG induction (gdi) service to clean the valves. The only time I actually get to see what they look like is when I do short blocks with bear heads that I need to transfer valves/springs over to a new head

 

[GT Pony]

A higher quality oil will stop deposits from forming on the valves and many more things.

The only way engine oil can cause deposits on the valves is if the oil vapors are sucked into the intake manifold through the PCV system. Crappy gasoline is what causes deposits on valves.

 

[DanielLD]

The only way engine oil can cause deposits on the valves is if the oil vapors are sucked into the intake manifold through the PCV system. Crappy gasoline is what causes deposits on valves.

Poor ring seal in the combustion chamber and weak film strength on the valve guides is what is causing the deposits on the valves. It's been proved already that a quality oil capable of stopping the fuel dilution in the crankcase in conjunction with a quality fuel or fuel with extra additives will leave minimal deposits. Oil plays a huge component in whether you will have deposits or not. It does not create them as you state but plays a major role in preventing them. A good oil filter and air filter combo will aid this, also remember the EGR and PCV residuals leave deposits need to be filtered out, poor filtration and you know the story.

Mobil 1 is not capable of doing this. very few oils can stop the fuel dilution of today's engines.

 

[mustang_guy]

Poor ring seal in the combustion chamber and weak film strength on the valve guides is what is causing the deposits on the valves. It's been proved already that a quality oil capable of stopping the fuel dilution in the crankcase in conjunction with a quality fuel or fuel with extra additives will leave minimal deposits. Oil plays a huge component in whether you will have deposits or not. It does not create them as you state but plays a major role in preventing them. A good oil filter and air filter combo will aid this, also remember the EGR and PCV residuals leave deposits need to be filtered out, poor filtration and you know the story.

Mobil 1 is not capable of doing this. very few oils can stop the fuel dilution of today's engines.

^
Im with the keebler elf on this.

 

[mustang_guy]

I'm personally glad you joined and brought info about RLI. I'm glad to have another choice besides Amsoil. I love my Amsoil but to have something ever better for about the same cost is huge to me. So, thanks again your info. I didn't think I'd find another oil that does what Amsoil can but a bit better. It's hard to beat.

 

[DanielLD]

I'm personally glad you joined and brought info about RLI. I'm glad to have another choice besides Amsoil. I love my Amsoil but to have something ever better for about the same cost is huge to me. So, thanks again your info. I didn't think I'd find another oil that does what Amsoil can but a bit better. It's hard to beat.

Thanks MustangGuy!

Yep, I'm going to run the Amsoil 0W-20 SigSeries in my engine in winter!

The RLI should be cheaper alas the shipping brings it to $9/quart. Really a shame, I spoke with the owners and they just don't understand marketing/business in my eyes. That oil would be everywhere if I owned that company.

CREATED10 - 10% off RLI until August 1st, occasionally get emails from them if you sign up.

 

[mustang_guy]

Thanks MustangGuy!

Yep, I'm going to run the Amsoil 0W-20 SigSeries in my engine in winter!

The RLI should be cheaper alas the shipping brings it to $9/quart. Really a shame, I spoke with the owners and they just don't understand marketing/business in my eyes. That oil would be everywhere if I owned that company.

CREATED10 - 10% off RLI until August 1st, occasionally get emails from them if you sign up.

I've got another 8 qts of amsoil 5w30 SS to use before I can switch. I've recently sold my DD Sti which used 5w30 also. I'll probably use it in the 17 trd pro 4runner I picked up. Decisions! I'll be buying by the gallons not quarts whenever I do start buying.

 

[DanielLD]

I've got another 8 qts of amsoil 5w30 SS to use before I can switch. I've recently sold my DD Sti which used 5w30 also. I'll probably use it in the 17 trd pro 4runner I picked up. Decisions! I'll be buying by the gallons not quarts whenever I do start buying.

Nice, I like the four wheel drive sports cars, those things are always fun in winter. I have a friend that puts winter tires on his and it drives like it's on rails in winter.

Yeah that's the per quart price when you break down the gallon! lol

 

[mustang_guy]

Nice, I like the four wheel drive sports cars, those things are always fun in winter. I have a friend that puts winter tires on his and it drives like it's on rails in winter.

Yeah that's the per quart price when you break down the gallon! lol

you'd have loved mine. Had around 750whp on e85. Usually ran it turned down. 6766, Closed deck, fully built drivetrain blah blah blah. It was exceptionally fun on hakka r2s in the winter. Was kind of bitter sweet to sell it. Just didn't make sense anymore to keep it. I'm going to miss having fast daily driver though. Ah, I was wondering if that was the break down.

 

[DanielLD]

you'd have loved mine. Had around 750whp on e85. Usually ran it turned down. 6766, Closed deck, fully built drivetrain blah blah blah. It was exceptionally fun on hakka r2s in the winter. Was kind of bitter sweet to sell it. Just didn't make sense anymore to keep it. I'm going to miss having fast daily driver though. Ah, I was wondering if that was the break down.

oh boy! That must have been nuts!

 

[GT Pony]

Poor ring seal in the combustion chamber and weak film strength on the valve guides is what is causing the deposits on the valves. It's been proved already that a quality oil capable of stopping the fuel dilution in the crankcase in conjunction with a quality fuel or fuel with extra additives will leave minimal deposits. Oil plays a huge component in whether you will have deposits or not. It does not create them as you state but plays a major role in preventing them. A good oil filter and air filter combo will aid this, also remember the EGR and PCV residuals leave deposits need to be filtered out, poor filtration and you know the story.

Mobil 1 is not capable of doing this. very few oils can stop the fuel dilution of today's engines.

I've ran Mobil 1 in many vehicles, and have also inspected the top of the valves with 35K+ miles ... they looked completely spotless like they were brand new.

Sure, an engine with worn out rings and worn out or crappy valve guide seals might contribute to valve deposits.

And just how is a good oil filter going to prevent oil deposits on the valves? - it has nothing to do with valve deposits. PCV oil vapors are not filtered because they enter the intake manifold after the air filter, so the air filter isn't part of the issue.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=what+causes+intake+valve+deposits

 

[DanielLD]

I've ran Mobil 1 in many vehicles, and have also inspected the top of the valves after thousands of miles ... they looked completely spotless.

Sure, an engine with worn out rings and worn out or crappy valve guide seals might contribute to valve deposits. A low tier gasoline without cleaning additives will certainly cause the majority of valve deposits.

And just how is a good oil filter going to prevent oil deposits on the valves? - it has nothing to do with valve deposits. PCV oil vapors are not filtered because they enter the intake manifold after the air filter, so the air filter isn't part of the issue.

Mobil 1 in the past had a different formula, Mobil 1 works in some vehicles. Every vehicle runs differently, so use UOA to confirm. If your engine is in tune then a cheaper oil might be just all that is needed. Today new engines run hot to reduce emissions, fuel dilution is very high, all time high.

Agreed with the low quality fuel! But it's only a part of the equation! Poor ring seal introduces even more post combustion residuals that stick to the valves due to polarity

Because those EGRed residuals need to be filtered, many issues with deposits are related due to polarization. Having a fuel and oil that can clean post combustion is key. A quality oil filter will catch those residuals and reduce fuel dilution in the crank case.

Yes, air filter is part of the issue as you want the engine to burn clean. A dirty filter will allow insolubles to build in the crank case. You want your engine to run as efficiently as possible because if it pulls timing or retards it you're now on a different fuel map that will likely have poorer ring seal leading to the issues uptop

 

[GT Pony]

http://thechronicleherald.ca/wheelsnews/1366531-dirty-valves-and-direct-injection

JP: What causes a buildup of ‘gunk’ on an engine’s intake valves? Is it only fuel, or oily engine ‘blow-by’ that accumulates over time from the PCV system?

GB: These deposits are formed from a combination of several different substances — positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) blow-by, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) residue on those engines with external EGR systems, engine oil that may leak past the valve seals, and fuel residue on port injected engines.

I doubt what type of oil you use is going to make any difference if the rings and valve guide seals are not working properly in the first place.

Lots of good info in this paper. Today's gasoline is a lot better than it was 20+ years ago, and that certainly helps keep the deposits down. The paper below contributed a lot of the valve deposits from fuel coking deposits.
http://archiwum.inig.pl/INST/nafta-gaz/nafta-gaz/Nafta-Gaz-2014-04-04.pdf

"All commercial gasolines produce deposits on engine parts like:
on intake valves and in combustion chambers. Carbonaceous
deposits are derived primarily from the incomplete combustion
of fuels and to a certain extend from lube oil contamination in
the combustion chambers."

 

[DanielLD]

You could doubt me, and you should! I always question.

STLE had a presentation on this, their field testing showed the Audi and BMW engines with little to no deposits by using an oil that reduced the fuel dilution in the crank case. It's well proven poor ring seal and valve guide film is the variable to control to stop deposits. However, few have ever addressed the polarization of these deposits. There is better out there, just have to find it.

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