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And so begins the Air.....

Burkey

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Can I just say right now that normally I friggin HATE nickel lustre wheels but god damn they suit your car perfectly! I think they really do suit the ruby red perfectly.:thumbsup:
And then you slammed it... I'm drooling!:hail:
How does she go in the twisty stuff? Please tell me it's absolute junk....can't afford this right now...:doh:
 
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FIXR7

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That's ok Burkey I think Black wheels, black rooves and DRL's are all just a fad and are therefore perfect for commodes.
Like I said, it handles great and it's almost eliminated the squat and dive of the stock suspension! I think I'll wait till I've put some big wheels on it before doing some shock tuning.
 

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Dang that's sweet. Thanks for the thread.
 

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A couple of things Pete.
1. Are you able to upload a pic of the wheel-well now that it's completed?
2. How much weight do you think the kit added to your car once you allow for the bits you took off?
3. How hard do you drive it? Skids and oppy lock or just "spirited".
4. How many hours do you think you put into the install? I've seen it done in the videos but frankly, if someone installed anything on my car to the satandard they do, I'd shoot them.
FYI, LMR win the prize for the worst of the lot.
5. Any other info that really sticks out for a first time user/installer?
6. Are the camber adjusters on the front plates of any value or totally inaccessible?
7. I assume Air Lift have a recommended setting for the heights of the collars on the struts and rears
Do you have any plans to play with the heights of the collars and change the effective spring rate of the bags?
8. Lastly, in theory the bags should ride smoother as you go lower (less effective spring rate), do you find that to be the case? Eg. Fully aired-up rides firmer than legal minimum

Finally, thanks for the thread. It's a good read. :cheers:

EDIT:
One last thing.
I've contacted Bag Riders with some technical questions (as you do).
I have a plan to play around with the rears cos I'm not TOTALLY convinced that air will suit my driving style yet.
What I'm looking at doing is installing th rear bags only at this point and running the lines into the wheel-well, where I'll fit two tyre valves. Airing up would be achieved via your normal servo tyre pump.
Do you see this as viable for testing purposes?
I realise that the fronts are going to have a more profound influence on handling but I'm thinking this is a cheaper and easier way to dip the toe before going the whole hog so to speak.
 
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Bradek

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Video in operation pretty please
 
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FIXR7

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1. not yet.

2.Not much really. the stock springs and shocks weigh considerably more so, maybe not even 10kg.

3. As hard as I can where possible. Yes I throw it into corners! I chased a bike from the lights the other day and smashed it into 2nd and instead of squatting it broke traction and i was looking out the side window at the back of the bike :) Yes I've seen those "quality" useless, uninformative videos too!:frusty::frusty:

4. That's a hard one because it was very dis-jointed due to xmas break hassles. I'd say an entire week. If you didn't do a kit with height sensors it would easily be half that time or less. It's very involved and making brackets is of course time consuming especially if you want a minimum of factory finish which, of course I do. Plus the so called "Mustang S550 kit" from the mob I got it from is really just the actual air springs and shocks. The management system is the same for every car so this is of course where you spend all your time. The Accuair gear is nice and the wire and connectors top notch but the Relay wiring supplied by Airride is frankly cheap shit...NO TXL WIRE!!

5. Quadruple check your height sensor location, arm throws, angles and operation and do it again and again at every possible wheel angle and height. Trying to do this without a hoist would be nothing short of a nightmare! Use nutserts and tough metals for the brackets. I used 2mm stainless.
That one piece tank I got is also a problem quality wise. Poorly formed threads makes it a PITA to get it sealed. Make sure your fittings have long threads for lotsa taper otherwise they simply won't end up sealing and use the best liquid sealer you can get your hands on eg; Loctite 571. In fact the 1/4 inch fitting in the middle of the tank was the worst so I ended up plugging it until I can find a fitting with better taper or if not I'll tee in near the water trap.

6. Caster/camber is accessible with ball drive allen keys.
Btw I've been driving it unaligned so there's a fair bit to be gained there too! As soon as I get the height sensing operational and therefore my three quick height setting buttons set I'll get it aligned at my most used position(#2) which will be around 100mm down from stock.

7.I left them as they came from Airlift. I may change this after getting the height sensing system finally working.

8. Absolutely! It's more comfortable than stock even very low except of course if you hit the bump stops but you'll get that with coil springs anyway so the point is moot. I haven't actually driven it at even the stock height yet or higher than stock because I don't want to:D:D
 
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FIXR7

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One last thing.
I've contacted Bag Riders with some technical questions (as you do).
I have a plan to play around with the rears cos I'm not TOTALLY convinced that air will suit my driving style yet.
What I'm looking at doing is installing th rear bags only at this point and running the lines into the wheel-well, where I'll fit two tyre valves. Airing up would be achieved via your normal servo tyre pump.
Do you see this as viable for testing purposes?
I realise that the fronts are going to have a more profound influence on handling but I'm thinking this is a cheaper and easier way to dip the toe before going the whole hog so to speak.
Sure you could do that.
 
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FIXR7

FIXR7

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Btw with it aired out, the lowest point of the car(the resonator) is about 25-30mm off the deck.
 

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1. not yet.

2.Not much really. the stock springs and shocks weigh considerably more so, maybe not even 10kg.

3. As hard as I can where possible. Yes I throw it into corners! I chased a bike from the lights the other day and smashed it into 2nd and instead of squatting it broke traction and i was looking out the side window at the back of the bike :) Yes I've seen those "quality" useless, uninformative videos too!:frusty::frusty:

4. That's a hard one because it was very dis-jointed due to xmas break hassles. I'd say an entire week. If you didn't do a kit with height sensors it would easily be half that time or less. It's very involved and making brackets is of course time consuming especially if you want a minimum of factory finish which, of course I do. Plus the so called "Mustang S550 kit" from the mob I got it from is really just the actual air springs and shocks. The management system is the same for every car so this is of course where you spend all your time. The Accuair gear is nice and the wire and connectors top notch but the Relay wiring supplied by Airride is frankly cheap shit...NO TXL WIRE!!

5. Quadruple check your height sensor location, arm throws, angles and operation and do it again and again at every possible wheel angle and height. Trying to do this without a hoist would be nothing short of a nightmare! Use nutserts and tough metals for the brackets. I used 2mm stainless.
That one piece tank I got is also a problem quality wise. Poorly formed threads makes it a PITA to get it sealed. Make sure your fittings have long threads for lotsa taper otherwise they simply won't end up sealing and use the best liquid sealer you can get your hands on eg; Loctite 571. In fact the 1/4 inch fitting in the middle of the tank was the worst so I ended up plugging it until I can find a fitting with better taper or if not I'll tee in near the water trap.

6. Caster/camber is accessible with ball drive allen keys.
Btw I've been driving it unaligned so there's a fair bit to be gained there too! As soon as I get the height sensing operational and therefore my three quick height setting buttons set I'll get it aligned at my most used position(#2) which will be around 100mm down from stock.

7.I left them as they came from Airlift. I may change this after getting the height sensing system finally working.

8. Absolutely! It's more comfortable than stock even very low except of course if you hit the bump stops but you'll get that with coil springs anyway so the point is moot. I haven't actually driven it at even the stock height yet or higher than stock because I don't want to:D:D
Uber helpful thanks Peter :cheers:
I think you just broke my bank account...:eyebulge:
 

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Burkey

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Also Peter, I think the side window is a great place to be looking whilst in pursuit..:clap2:
 

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I am thinking about installing suspension kits right now. (coilovers vs air)

Only thing prevents me from doing air is where to put the gas tank. I was told there is a circular tank that can be fitted to where the compressor is in the boot?
 

Burkey

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I am thinking about installing suspension kits right now. (coilovers vs air)

Only thing prevents me from doing air is where to put the gas tank. I was told there is a circular tank that can be fitted to where the compressor is in the boot?
Airlift make what is known as a pancake tank. It basically mimics the shape of a wheel. I've already had it measured and it seems that you'd need to modify the mounting bracket to make it fit (too tall). On top of that, even if it did fit the hole properly, you'd still have to find somewhere to mount the compressor, manifold, ecu etc.
 
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FIXR7

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Burkey

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Thanks Peter, it seems that I might've accidentally ordered some Air Lift stuff from EBay...
For the record, bag riders wanted $500 USD to ship the rears ALONE. eBay was $200 AUD
So, with the 25% off at the moment (month of Feb) and much cheaper shipping, I pushed all the wrong buttons and made an offer. Which was accepted....:eyebulge:
Wife is going to shoot me. :ninja:
If anyone's needs me, I'll be living in the shed :headbang:
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