Abnormal Camshaft Wear

[GregO]

Ouuu good suggestion.

I assume the graph is stock intake with their exhaust cams?

I’ll ask my tuner if they will tune them.

I think the Dyno graph was L&M intake cam by stock exhaust cam.

The L&M intake cam should work good with your centrifugal.

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[LevittownFordParts]

If I’m stuck with getting aftermarket cams I was suggested Comp Stage 3 N/A cams, valve spring upgrade necessary for my application? P1X 10psi on E85 street car with maybe 2-3 strip outings each season.

What are the odds all 4pcs are spoken for already? I’m fine with waiting 3 weeks to save $2k on aftermarket cams lol.

As of today there is now 1 backorder/reservation in the system.

Thanks,
- Benny

 

[Genxer]

Discovered the same situation on my 200k mile Honda when I was in there adjusting valves. It was only one lobe. It’s an old car so I decided against an expensive repair. I stoned the surface and sent it. Was curious to see how long it would last. Nearly 180k more miles since then and still going lol. Makes me wonder if the valve lash had been tight. That said, you are def doing the right thing by replacing the cam.

 

[Garfy]

Tell me you don't understand oil viscosity and weights without telling me....

a 5W50 is the same viscosity at 0* C as 5W30. The "W" means winter and the first number in a multi-viscosity oil is the winter weight measured at 0* C. Once the oil hits 100*C it then carries the second number viscosity. This is achieved with copolymers and other chemistry that allows the oil to thicken when hot and thin out when cold.

I don't think the oil actually "thickens" when it gets hot. The 5W50 just won't think out as much as the 5W30 does at operating temperatures. When you drain out the original factory fill of 0W20 when it's hot, it's a lot thinner than room temperature oil of the same viscosity. I'm sure if you drained out your hot 5W50 oil, you'd find it's thinner than that same oil when it's cold which means the oil does not get thicker when hot.

 

[LunarS550]

Update:
While waiting on the replacement exhaust cam I went ahead and got the cams, rockers and adjusters out.

The worn rocker roller is not seized and I’ve confirmed all the other cam lobes look fine.

Excuse my ignorance (23 yrs old, first engine tear down) but took a few photos of some of the cam caps that looked a little worn to me but not sure if normal wear or not, would appreciate any feedback.

Another question, would I benefit from doing head studs or anything else while I’m here? Considering to pulley down and max out the P1X, would like it to take the power

OPG/CS already done. Replacing all rockers and adjusters, primary and secondary chains.

 

[deanm11]

If I’m stuck with getting aftermarket cams I was suggested Comp Stage 3 N/A cams, valve spring upgrade necessary for my application? P1X 10psi on E85 street car with maybe 2-3 strip outings each season.

What are the odds all 4pcs are spoken for already? I’m fine with waiting 3 weeks to save $2k on aftermarket cams lol.

Valve springs: The setup detail that matters is your intended redline. I have these cams in my NA build. They are "NSR" no springs requried, TO factory redline. Will your survive revving out to 8000 or more? Most likely. But you are likely valve floating and giving up power. I did PAC 1281X springs and upgraded retainers. There is a bias toward more valve spring needed with forced induction but I don't think it moves the needle ton at our boost levels as opposed to mondo boost small displacement motors. If you will redline by 77-7800, springs probably not so necessary.

 

[LunarS550]

Valve springs: The setup detail that matters is your intended redline. I have these cams in my NA build. They are "NSR" no springs requried, TO factory redline. Will your survive revving out to 8000 or more? Most likely. But you are likely valve floating and giving up power. I did PAC 1281X springs and upgraded retainers. There is a bias toward more valve spring needed with forced induction but I don't think it moves the needle ton at our boost levels as opposed to mondo boost small displacement motors. If you will redline by 77-7800, springs probably not so necessary.

I decided to stay with stock cams, and Lund set my redline at 7600 so not necessary for my setup. Thanks for that info

 

[K4fxd]

I don't like the way the caps look in the photos. But photos don't tell the whole story. Can you catch your fingernail on any of the caps? If so you need some machining. If not I'd try to have a competent engine builder look at them before I ran them.

 

[Timbuck]

These pics are from my 2017 gen2 , 18,000KMS. (11000miles). You can see , but can not feel Any of the marks. Finger nail test etc.
These are going back into a sleeved and built motor as it’s just normal wear marks On cams seats and caps.

 

[LunarS550]

I don't like the way the caps look in the photos. But photos don't tell the whole story. Can you catch your fingernail on any of the caps? If so you need some machining. If not I'd try to have a competent engine builder look at them before I ran them.

Fingernail test passed, smooth as butter.

These pics are from my 2017 gen2 , 18,000KMS. (11000miles). You can see , but can not feel Any of the marks. Finger nail test etc.
These are going back into a sleeved and built motor as it’s just normal wear marks On cams seats and caps.

I figured as much just wanted to get some confirmation, thank you!

 

[LunarS550]

Decided on doing head studs and valve springs while I’m here, going to be waiting a few more weeks for the cam anyway. Went with ARP 2000 11mm head studs. Haven’t ordered the valve springs yet but I think I’m going with PAC 1234x with chromoly retainers.

Really want to do the valve springs without pulling the heads off, anyone have experience doing springs with the heads on the car?

 

[Jaymar]

Decided on doing head studs and valve springs while I’m here, going to be waiting a few more weeks for the cam anyway. Went with ARP 2000 11mm head studs. Haven’t ordered the valve springs yet but I think I’m going with PAC 1234x with chromoly retainers.

Really want to do the valve springs without pulling the heads off, anyone have experience doing springs with the heads on the car?

It can be done but if you're already doing headstuds why make life harder?

 

[LunarS550]

It can be done but if you're already doing headstuds why make life harder?

I don’t want to unbolt the headers

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

Lots of people have installed ARP head bolts or studs without pulling the head. Just follow the torque sequence and pull that bolt and replace it with the stud and torque to spec, then move on to the next one. 9 out 10 times you can pull it off and not damage the head gasket.

 

[Jaymar]

Lots of people have installed ARP head bolts or studs without pulling the head. Just follow the torque sequence and pull that bolt and replace it with the stud and torque to spec, then move on to the next one. 9 out 10 times you can pull it off and not damage the head gasket.

Yeah, if it saved you the cam chains and timing I can see the shortcut but if you ever blow a head gasket you'll be so pissed thinking about it while you pull the headers.

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