A whole bunch on p-codes lol

[WildHorse]

*SOLVED*

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[SheepDog]

*SOLVED*

So what was the problem?

 

[WildHorse]

You'd never believe it in a million years. FORD woulda charged 1000's and still not have found the problem. But this guy did. A piece that costs less than a nickel fixed it.

 

[SheepDog]

You'd never believe it in a million years. FORD woulda charged 1000's and still not have found the problem. But this guy did. A piece that costs less than a nickel fixed it.

so..... broken wire? bad ground, bent pin, loose bolt?

 

[17MagMetal]

so..... broken wire? bad ground, loose bolt?

It had no gas in it

 

[WildHorse]

It had no gas in it

Right. No need to explain further. So if anyone else has this exact problem,
I'll refer them to your post.

 

[17MagMetal]

Right. No need to explain further. So if anyone else has this exact problem,
I'll refer them to your post.

My genius strikes again.

In all seriousness I’m interested in learning - do tell!

Edit: let me know if I’m an idiot and missed it if stated

 

[SheepDog]

Right. No need to explain further. So if anyone else has this exact problem,
I'll refer them to your post.

I guess this means that the solution to your problem is top secret info? Why do you ask for help, and then when a fix/resolution is determined, you want to play cat and mouse?

 

[15Oxford5oh]

I guess this means that the solution to your problem is top secret info? Why do you ask for help, and then when a fix/resolution is determined, you want to play cat and mouse?

Definitely odd to not share what the initial cause and fix to the problem was. I haven't run into any issues of this sort, but it was starting to become a good story line in the case that i did.

 

[17MagMetal]

Definitely odd to not share what the initial cause and fix to the problem was. I haven't run into any issues of this sort, but it was starting to become a good story line in the case that i did.

I think he might’ve intended on sharing it on the post that states, “*SOLVED*”, but for some reason the text was deleted/not included in the posting.

I’m still interested myself. ESS is a route I’m interested in exploring one day.

 

[17MagMetal]

*SOLVED*

This post here!

 

[WildHorse]

#40 fuse.

I knew it was getting the proper voltage. I also knew one year prior it popped. And this year when all those codes popped up again, I checked #40. Looked fine. Except that it looked like it got hot. Proper voltage.

I checked all the affected sensors, working as should. So I came back to the #40 fuse. Pulled it. Looked good. Replaced it, still the same.

So I tried the light bulb trick, passed.

So I decided to dwell deeper into it.

What I found, was that the females (fuse #40 slot) looked like to have some kind of oxidation. Not a lot, just a bit. I cut some sand paper, inserted it into the slot, used the fuse for some resistance, cleaned to the point where I thought it looked good.

Cleared the codes. Started it up, BINGO. No codes, everything working.

Seems that some very slight oxidation, while the engine was RUNNING, cause the voltages to drop slightly, causes those codes.

Now I was stumped as to why those that particular fuse had slight oxidation on it, and why it overheated. Nearest I could tell, was when I changed my Battery last fall, I neglected to do the battery reset. I noticed the alternator output was constantly at 14.6-14.8v in the spring. It seems the PCM thought the old battery was still in it, so with that output, plus a brand new battery voltages, that particular fuse overheated, and caused the females to oxidize a bit, which while passing the lightbulb test, still failed (voltage drop) with the engine running under load, triggering those codes.

Or, could possibly have been using the battery maintainer with the battery still connected.

So what did I learn ?

1. Changing the Battery, do the factory battery reset.
2. While storing the car, disconnect the battery when using a maintainer.
3. Think outside the box at what the problem could possibly be.
4. DEALERSHIP MECHANICS are fucking morons. Just there to take yer $$$.

Hope this saves somebody a major headache & money.

 

[WildHorse]

I'll tell you one thing though, the PCM went into FMEM (Failure Mode Effect Management). That put the fuel trims at 20% rich.

FMEM is designed to protect the engine from failure when running in severe conditions or under a sensor(s) failure.

 

[17MagMetal]

#40 fuse.

I knew it was getting the proper voltage. I also knew one year prior it popped. And this year when all those codes popped up again, I checked #40. Looked fine. Except that it looked like it got hot. Proper voltage.

I checked all the affected sensors, working as should. So I came back to the #40 fuse. Pulled it. Looked good. Replaced it, still the same.

So I tried the light bulb trick, passed.

So I decided to dwell deeper into it.

What I found, was that the females (fuse #40 slot) looked like to have some kind of oxidation. Not a lot, just a bit. I cut some sand paper, inserted it into the slot, used the fuse for some resistance, cleaned to the point where I thought it looked good.

Cleared the codes. Started it up, BINGO. No codes, everything working.

Seems that some very slight oxidation, while the engine was RUNNING, cause the voltages to drop slightly, causes those codes.

Now I was stumped as to why those that particular fuse had slight oxidation on it, and why it overheated. Nearest I could tell, was when I changed my Battery last fall, I neglected to do the battery reset. I noticed the alternator output was constantly at 14.6-14.8v in the spring. It seems the PCM thought the old battery was still in it, so with that output, plus a brand new battery voltages, that particular fuse overheated, and caused the females to oxidize a bit, which while passing the lightbulb test, still failed (voltage drop) with the engine running under load, triggering those codes.

Or, could possibly have been using the battery maintainer with the battery still connected.

So what did I learn ?

1. Changing the Battery, do the factory battery reset.
2. While storing the car, disconnect the battery when using a maintainer.
3. Think outside the box at what the problem could possibly be.
4. DEALERSHIP MECHANICS are fucking morons. Just there to take yer $$$.

Hope this saves somebody a major headache & money.

Dang, what a major PITA. Glad you walked away just a few dollars lighter.

 

[WildHorse]

Dang, what a major PITA

Yeah. Far cry from 'no gas' eh ? Hope now you get why I got a little peeved at yer comment.

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