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I’ve had the same issue, but I have also removed them several times to get behind the fender liners to install my fuel lines, power wires etc. you really have to make sure and clean all the old adhesive off the fender and the plastic extension. I use a sanding disc in a drill to clean the...

I didn’t have to grind anything. I would recommend using a rubber band to go around the backside of the jaws to keep them in place while you’re getting them into position into the slots in the balancer.

Exactly. You spend very little time at redline. Pulley so that you’re making power as soon as possible. The ethanol helps not only with timing, but cooling the cylinders (especially important if you have a stock bottom end with very tight ring gaps)

My question is: Are you planning on installing a fuel system? (Or KPM type of upgrade) so that you can run E85? IMHO, the centri setup will work great for what you are trying to achieve provided you get the benefit of the additional timing you can add with E, and the ability to pulley down...

718.234892746 Roughly

Same here. Even with Long tubes and high flow Gesi cats, all my readiness monitors are completed. He is super responsive, willing to answer questions (that Im sure he gets over and over again) and most importantly, my car runs like a scalded dog. Can't ask for more than that.

Replacing the Oil pump gears is a lot easier on your car than on Gen3 motors, because you don't have to drop the oil pan (provided you get a little crafty with a wrench and piece of wire to start the oil pickup tube bolt during installation) You can buy pre-assembled oil pump assemblies with...

Amsoil 75-110. Haven't had a diff blow up yet.

Ford and the dealerships are not the same company. Dealerships are privately owned operations, and their ONLY objective is to make a profit. You need to speak directly with the Service Manager at the dealership. Not the Service advisor, not their shift manager, but the actual person in charge...

Barf. Id rather have a GT500 with a manual transmission swap.

There is a gasket, but also RTV in 4 spots where the front timing cover and rear main seal plate meet the block.

Did you unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up all the way?

I guess this means that the solution to your problem is top secret info? Why do you ask for help, and then when a fix/resolution is determined, you want to play cat and mouse?

Why not the Steeda Magnaride springs? https://www.steeda.com/mustang-magneride-lowering-springs_555-8243

Not sure you are really considering the likelyhood of a failure at that voltage. Will it work, sure, but for how long? Using a BAP at 20 or even 22 volts doesn't seem like a long term reliable solution.

so..... broken wire? bad ground, bent pin, loose bolt?

So what was the problem?

1- the OEM bolt does not bottom out in the crank. 2- By shoring up the void in the crank, the lateral loads on the snout are much more evenly distributed than the OEM bolt, so it is less likely to break ( I assume you are talking about a supercharger install, and the extra strain it places on...

Most shops won't resurface dual mass flywheels

Do you have daylight savings time set?