2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

[TorkN8R]

Well, this is gas from GA, TN, KY, IN, and IL and then back again (road trip). I should hope the entire eastern side of the Mississippi didn't get bad gas.

Now that I think of it, it does do it "less" with Shell gas, which I used since it was cheaper sometimes. I'm not really a gas brand loyalist, but usually go to BP, then less often Shell or Chevron.

And yes I did spell out MISSISSIPPI in my head when I wrote that word... :headbonk:

I have notice that sound when I'm driving in sport+ mode and when accelerating in a higher gear and the RPM's aren't spun up yet, and I haven't down shifted. If I'm in normal driving mode or just sport mode, the tranny (auto) drops down the gearing and I don't hear it. I guess what I'm saying is that if I'm lugging the engine it seems to happen.

Also...I don't know about the gas in your area, but hear in CA they use what is called a winter blend. Translation probably means crap gas. My understanding is that gas gets stale and looses OCT. very quacking so most of the time 91 or 93 really isn't either of those if its not fresh.

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[Traffic22]

I have been noticing that if I accelerate briskly from a lower RPM (like below up to 3K) in 2-5th gear, I hear a "tink tink tink tink" sound accompanied by oddly lazy acceleration. Once that tink sound stops and I get past like 4K RPM, it accelerates like a banshee. I have been told this is detonation. I use 93 octane gas from Chevron or BP and after my recent road trip now have approximately 1600 miles on this kit. If it was going to learn something, it should have learned it by now. The touchy throttle has mellowed some, but still unmanageable. The warm engine rev hang has mellowed, too, but it's still there always randomly and unpredictably.

I just got one of those OBDE things that'll wi-fi to a computer. Anyone know how I can see if the vehicle is "pinging" using this? It comes with software I can read codes and whatever the computer will tell me.

I do recall reading in the ProCal instructions there was a knock sensor mode you can enable....this may help you if it is not already enabled.

My car goes in tomorrow morning, should be able to pick it up in the afternoon...I'll report my impressions later. :eyebulge:

Sorry you've had such bad luck wildcatgoal....wish me luck

 

[MarkH]

My apology's friend if this has been asked and answered. Did you install the PP2 kit yourself? If so...have you tried returning to the stock tune, and reloading the FP tune, all the while having a battery tender connected?

I feel for you man. I'd be pissed and disappointed beyond reason if this had happened to me. I hope FP straightens this out for you in a hurry.

If the dealer did the install and its "that" bad the car should be at the dealership. Not sure you can just put it back to stock with the new throttlebody and intake either.

 

[TorkN8R]

If the dealer did the install and its "that" bad the car should be at the dealership. Not sure you can just put it back to stock with the new throttlebody and intake either.

Right! What I mean is...if the install is done by yourself. Than you don't redo the entire install, and remove the TB and all that. You get out your laptop, open the file and just redo the install of the tune file. The file has a return to stock tune.

The install manual says...if the battery V drops below 12 V at anytime during the tune file upload, you may have to redo it twice in order for a proper tune file upload. It's worth a try yeah?

 

[wildcatgoal]

I was present for the entire installation. The tune loaded first try.

I was told by FP that I should try a catch can. I had to remove my FP separator because it didn't fit anymore thanks to the spacer and GT350 TB. I was hoping to resolve these throttle issues before I spend money on another version of something I already have. I did run my separator for a few hundred miles but was too worried about t butting up against the TB electrical connector so I took it off. Don't remember if I got this pinging when it was installed clearly but I have been hearing this for a while, even shortly after install. And I brushed it off as me hearing the intake sucking air. But then I was told I have pinging by the shop that installed it. They are not a dealer, just ASE performance shop. They said they'd do exactly what I've already done, contact FP. Same as what a local dealer said they'd do when I asked them getting quotes what they would do if there were issues. Dealer can't do anything for me.

Seems unfortunate to me that I NEED a catch can for a tune yet it is not listed as a requirement anywhere and FP's test vehicles clearly didn't have my catch can at least otherwise they would have known it doesn't fit when I told them.

 

[wildcatgoal]

I have put it into the other spark mapping mode. We'll see what that does.

 

[MarkH]

I have put it into the other spark mapping mode. We'll see what that does.

Interested on your findings. I took mine out this am and still noticing the ping ~ 2800-3500, heading out for a long ride and let you know if it clears.

 

[slag1911]

Interested on your findings. I took mine out this am and still noticing the ping ~ 2800-3500, heading out for a long ride and let you know if it clears.

Same RPM range that mine pings...

 

[SVT-DADDY]

I have to say after reading this thread I'll be getting the Lund Ngauge and Steeda intake. Too many "issues" with the Ford Racing package.

Thanks to Wildcatgoal and other early adopters for the feedback.

 

[Malcornelius]

I have to say after reading this thread I'll be getting the Lund Ngauge and Steeda intake. Too many "issues" with the Ford Racing package.

Thanks to Wildcatgoal and other early adopters for the feedback.

Same here, but in my case I'm still waiting on the PP3. I just went ahead and loaded a Lund FF tune and will upgrade the tune and install the manifold, intake and TB if they ever arrive. I guess the 6 month wait resolved any lingering concerns about warranty for me... as well as the not so stellar reviews of the FR calibrations.

 

[oldboy]

For the engineering minded here is a very in depth discussion of detonation and pre ignition. The magazine is focused on experimental aircraft, but includes much discussion on automotive applications. It is a deep read, but I learned a lot, especially regarding pre ignition being silent but deadly and most likely occurring just after BDC when easiest to light off. He states that auto engines often run on the ragged edge of detonation.

Recognize that recip a/c engines typically operate at 75% power in cruise (and 100% at takeoff/climb); a way tougher operating environment than your car cruising down the highway at 15% power or so most of the time.

http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.html

 

[Kong76]

Torn on installing my kit. Zero patience for Bs.

 

[SVT-DADDY]

Torn on installing my kit. Zero patience for Bs.

Same here. The car is perfect as is. Don't want stress for a few extra hp

I'll never forget my old 97' Cobra, after spending 40k on mods including a built motor I drove a stock one and thought "wow isnt this nice!" lol

 

[keiths2kgt]

I declined my pp2 purchase due to all the bs. I'll just stay stock

 

[TexasRebel]

For the engineering minded here is a very in depth discussion of detonation and pre ignition. The magazine is focused on experimental aircraft, but includes much discussion on automotive applications. It is a deep read, but I learned a lot, especially regarding pre ignition being silent but deadly and most likely occurring just after BDC when easiest to light off. He states that auto engines often run on the ragged edge of detonation.

Recognize that recip a/c engines typically operate at 75% power in cruise (and 100% at takeoff/climb); a way tougher operating environment than your car cruising down the highway at 15% power or so most of the time.

http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.html

Pre-ignition or auto-ignition?

BDC or TDC?

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