Which Oil Filter? FL-500S or FRPP FL-820?

Gibbo205 said:

Who knows, I am not interested in saving $10 on an oil filter, the thing that protects our engine the best and is something we only do every 5000 miles why would anyone want to save $10 and risk an inferior filter.

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Come on now, just because it's not labeled Ford Racing and is over priced doesn't mean it's inferior. The FL-500S recommended in the manual costs around $4 too. I was merely asking if I could get some of the same flow benefits using the larger filter without having to pay extra for things like higher burst strength and the like that people who track their cars might need but I don't.

I guess I am one of those put the inferior manufacturer recommended filter on types.

Rustang said:

Come on now, just because it's not labeled Ford Racing and is over priced doesn't mean it's inferior. The FL-500S recommended in the manual costs around $4 too. I was merely asking if I could get some of the same flow benefits using the larger filter without having to pay extra for things like higher burst strength and the like that people who track their cars might need but I don't.

I guess I am one of those put the inferior manufacturer recommended filter on types.

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I am just happy to pay the $10 more for the proven filter that has the Ford/FRPP label on it that the dealership are happy to use whilst servicing to maintain warranty.

If the FL-820S is identical and $10 less then great, but the fact is we do not know and as I am not trying to save every penny because I own a busted up Miata I am not going to lose any sleep about potentially spending $10 to much on the oil filter to keep my brand new GT PP Mustang in good running order.

Rustang said:

Come on now, just because it's not labeled Ford Racing and is over priced doesn't mean it's inferior. The FL-500S recommended in the manual costs around $4 too. I was merely asking if I could get some of the same flow benefits using the larger filter without having to pay extra for things like higher burst strength and the like that people who track their cars might need but I don't.

I guess I am one of those put the inferior manufacturer recommended filter on types.

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the specs on both clearly show its not just an overpriced filter

Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filter
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 19.75 oz
* Can OD - 3.68" / Seam OD - 3.76"
* Overall Height - 3.99"
* Can Material - 0.019" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.44" (at element)
* Filter Element Height - 2.81"
* Media - Cellulose - Synthetic Mix? Oiled? (appears orange)
* Number of pleats - 63 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.73"
* Media length (unrolled) - 100" (seam crimped)
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.50"
* Media thickness - 0.029"
* Total media surface area - 250 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 7.25 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.71"
* Indentifying marks
Can - 810050516 / Made in USA
Bar Code - 7_56122_07567_8
Label - 6945234
Base - 22 / MM
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicon



Motorcraft FL-820S
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 13.1 oz
* Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
* Overall Height - 4.05"
* Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.25"
* Filter Element Height - 2.51"
* Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
* Number of pleats - 43 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.68"
* Media length (unrolled) - 65.5"
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.375"
* Media thickness - 0.035"
* Total media surface area - 156 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 5.4 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.012" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.68"
* Indentifying marks
Can - Made in USA
ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 150
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)

I might run these Ford Performance FL820 filters...the specs do show it is a "better" filter. Especially interested in the increased filter media surface area (250 sq inches). I'm sure the differential pressure across the filter is within specs of the stock oil pump....ie this filter won't cause any issues.

But is this filter really necessary? Would any Ford service garages have an issue with it and try to deny a warranty to an oil related issue? Probably not.

I'd stick with the recommended 5w-20 weight oil.
5w-50 would just give Ford a reason to deny a warranty claim as it is not the required spec the owners manual calls for.

Every car I've owned, the internet forums second guess the recommended oil weight with zero data to back up the claim...ie Blackstone oil reports that show 5w-20 isn't protecting the engine as well as 5w-50 does.
I'd even suggest that the thicker 5w-50 allows for more engine wear during cold start ups (where most engine damage occurs) due to it being so much thicker the oil pump doesn't get the oil to the vital engine parts as quickly.

In the end, both oil weights do the job...5w-50 just reduces your mpgs more due to the increased parasitic drag due to it being so much thicker.

I've been using the FL820 filter from FRPP for a while with Amsoil SS 5W-20. Haven't had any issues or anything.

Haha ok guys, thanks for calling me cheap. Look for my engine failed because I used the factory filter thread coming soon.:doh:

Niz55 said:

So I guess I will be switching to castrol European formula 0w-40 and the FRPP filter

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This is the oil I use

Rustang said:

Haha ok guys, thanks for calling me cheap. Look for my engine failed because I used the factory filter thread coming soon.:doh:

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Way to be dramatic. I didnt call you cheap. I merely showed you there is a nice difference on why it costs more. You called it over priced. Its plain and simple a better filter by a nice bit. So if better makes something over priced in your eyes then do whatever. Just remember worth is subjective, the specs of the two filters are not.

I've thought about using the Ford Racing FL820 but I didn't know how much crap the dealer would give me about using it if I had an engine problem since it's not technically the recommended filter for my car. The price also kind of holds me back since it's about three times the price of the FL500s and I don't know if it's three times better.

I may try it after my drivetrain warranty is gone.

Wayne

drabon74 said:

This is the oil I use

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I just can't belive walmart carries it for $26 a jug. I hope they don't take it away.

Ive beaten the crap out of 3 5.0 engines and used the 500S filter. I also did oil analysis through blackstone and never any issues. I use the same oil as i always have Quaker state full synthetic and no issues. Ill stick with the 500s. Its cheaper and has never let me down or my oil choice.

Where is the bypass valve on the Ford Racing FL820 located in the filter? Is it in the bottom end like most aftermarket filters? In the Motorcraft FL500S the bypass valve is by the front of the filter near the threads that screw it on. I've read, and I agree, that this is a very important feature of the Motorcraft FL500S filter. When the Motorcraft FL500S filter goes into bypass the bypassing oil is diverted before the filter element. On most aftermarket filters the bypass is in the bottom of the filter and the oil flows over/across the dirty side of the filter element before it is diverted. This may cause previously filtered dirt and debris that has built up to be pulled off the filter element and flowed into the oil passages of the motor. On the Ti-VCT heads debris in the heads can cause issues. I've decided to stay with the Motorcraft FL500S filter as all the aftermarket Coyote oil filters, (M1, Fram, every single one at the normal parts stores) I've looked at has the bypass in the back of the filter. But if the Ford Racing FL820 has the bypass in the front like the Motorcraft FL500S then it seems to be a good alternative.

Bartly said:

Anyone have the micron rating for these filters?

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The ford racing is 20 micron at 99.9. the Ford Racing oil filter has a higher bypass valve setting of 17-23 PSI

Matt P said:

Where is the bypass valve on the Ford Racing FL820 located in the filter? Is it in the bottom end like most aftermarket filters? In the Motorcraft FL500S the bypass valve is by the front of the filter near the threads that screw it on. I've read, and I agree, that this is a very important feature of the Motorcraft FL500S filter. When the Motorcraft FL500S filter goes into bypass the bypassing oil is diverted before the filter element. On most aftermarket filters the bypass is in the bottom of the filter and the oil flows over/across the dirty side of the filter element before it is diverted. This may cause previously filtered dirt and debris that has built up to be pulled off the filter element and flowed into the oil passages of the motor. On the Ti-VCT heads debris in the heads can cause issues. I've decided to stay with the Motorcraft FL500S filter as all the aftermarket Coyote oil filters, (M1, Fram, every single one at the normal parts stores) I've looked at has the bypass in the back of the filter. But if the Ford Racing FL820 has the bypass in the front like the Motorcraft FL500S then it seems to be a good alternative.

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It has the bypass in the exact same place. Its a way better filter then the standard ford filters.

AmericanLegend said:

I'd even suggest that the thicker 5w-50 allows for more engine wear during cold start ups (where most engine damage occurs) due to it being so much thicker the oil pump doesn't get the oil to the vital engine parts as quickly.

In the end, both oil weights do the job...5w-50 just reduces your mpgs more due to the increased parasitic drag due to it being so much thicker.

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I'd say you need to do research on oil specs, and what they mean.

If you're worried about cold startup, you're looking at the wrong number...