I want to deprogram my rear speakers' EQ

Spart said:

Actually, I kind of doubt that. Somebody with an oscilloscope tested one of his programmed ACM's in an Escape and found bass boost at low volume and bass rolloff at high volume still present.

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Oh wow, good to know. I wonder if he was actually able to disable to factory EQ. I am thinking maybe the amp is what does all the EQing and the ACM itself may put out just an unmodified signal... hoping anyway, lol.

ahl395 said:

Oh wow, good to know. I wonder if he was actually able to disable to factory EQ. I am thinking maybe the amp is what does all the EQing and the ACM itself may put out just an unmodified signal... hoping anyway, lol.

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ACM does noise cancellation could that be causing bass roll off ?

The way I read [MENTION=10690]EcoBOSS[/MENTION] RTA graph, 32Hz is ~30dB below 80Hz, proving MY point that the rear shelf speakers' signal is rolled off in the low and mid bass. I can't explain the lack of energy throughout the wide midrange and low treble. I think the thick carpeting certainly has some effect, as will microphone placement, phase interference, cabin reflections, and what not.

GTP said:

The way I read [MENTION=10690]EcoBOSS[/MENTION] RTA graph, 32Hz is ~30dB below 80Hz, proving MY point that the rear shelf speakers' signal is rolled off in the low and mid bass. I can't explain the lack of energy throughout the wide midrange and low treble. I think the thick carpeting certainly has some effect, as will microphone placement, phase interference, cabin reflections, and what not.

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Looks to me like no microphone was used, clipped right to the speaker lead.

Two question

what the volume set at?

Is noise cancellation still on?

This seems to make sense in 12 speaker system that low bass would go to the kicker

No we need to see the same thing on 9 speaker system

I could try using Pink Noise from a CD and then have my analyzer sweep the received signal amplitude. But that is not ideal bc PN is pre-filtered.

I will probably use an old school method of pure tones from CD, clip the analyzer voltage input to the rear speaker, and then manually plot the individual 1/3-octave-spaced frequencies.

But I will just prove that the bass is electrically rolled off. We all know that with our ears. We still need to de-program that roll-off from the ACM!

Each of these is a single test tone from a Focal Test CD, Bass, Mid, Treble at zero, volume 1/2 way.
This is a physical connection through the microphone Jack (RC circuit), the "noise" at the bottom, I'm convinced, is the ANC/ESE as I couldn't get the RTA app to "calibrate" for it.
The engine was running, outside because I've already killed the battery once during the first tests after I built the rig.

I don't know what a "kicker" is - are you referring to the subwoofer?
It is always on and can only be "turned off" by putting the fade to full front.

The ANC, ESE and factory EQ are all untouched, failed to get my local dealer to even TRY IDS - I offered to pay the hourly rate weather it worked or not. "They don't do that". Bummer.
Getting the FORScan BT adapter this week - sick of not being able to do what I want - for F's sake, I'm willing to throw money at these freakin' people...

GTP - anything but the tone in these images is noise, this is not a Pink Noise test, I already know that looks like hammered dog poop.

I'm giving up on changing the EQ in ACM or DSP. Best will be turning off the ANC. So how about a LC2i feed it the rear deck speaker as input maybe with some 30watt 8 ohm resistor across input lines to fool the DSP the speakers are still there. Then a small amp using the sub woofer amp power wiring which is still in 9 speaker cars and feed the rear deck speakers. Don't have tear any body panels out done all from the trunk.

What do you think?

You did a lot work and money and still not right how does that help.

Hi all...I have a 2016 ecoboot premium convertible (9 speaker, no sub). This weekend i plan on doing...

1-Remove Amp and replace with aftermarket
2-Put 2 way components up front (do nothing with the rears).

After reading this thread please let me know if i have anything wrong here...

A-Since i am removing my amp, I can take the low level signals from the ACM and go directly into my amp. The should be low level, adjusting with volume from the factory settings right?

B-I should not have to change any Noise cancelling or other DSP functions with Forscan as they are all processed in the amp i am removing. Correct?

C-Will there be any other deficits in the over all functionality of the system (Bluetooth voice? ??)

D-Has anyone determined if there is any low end roll off i should worry about .... dont know if it was definitively determined.

Thanks in advance.

With my 2017 GT I changed out the entire stereo except for the head unit. The JL Audio FIX sets the factory audio back to a flat curve so the processing is removed. Not free but weel work it. I also added a JL Audio Tweak as a DSP.

Danman said:

With my 2017 GT I changed out the entire stereo except for the head unit. The JL Audio FIX sets the factory audio back to a flat curve so the processing is removed. Not free but weel work it. I also added a JL Audio Tweak as a DSP.

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So am I correct in inferring that you completely removed the factory amp and replaced it with a JL FIX going into a JL Tweak and then into your amp? Did you use the factory wiring or run new wire?

Does anybody know at what volume level the bass starts to roll off?

Go here explains the factory system
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89170

Only V8'S are without ANC & ESE 2.3 & 5.2 HAVe it. So removing the DSP does get rid of the tweaking, or cut the noise canceling leads into the DSP. No forscan tweak can fix it.

ANC&ESE are disabled by open door or trunk lid

see the above link got shop manual details

ahl395 said:

...
So I will try using the front signals for the rear speakers also. It's only a two channel system so I don't see what would be different about the rear signals other than the rolloff. ...

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Agreed. I think I will try a simple low-tech approach.

1. Remove the 2 pairs of rear speaker leads at the amp.
2. Patch them into the leads for the lower door speakers. IOW, just piggy-back the rear speakers onto the lower door speakers' amplified signals.
3. Run the system at low volume at first.
4. Test for more bass coming from the rear.

Note that I already replaced my rear shelf speakers with quality 8ohm 7" woofers. Assuming the lower door speakers are nominally 4ohm loads, this paralleled arrangement will present a 2.7ohm load to the amp, which is why I will run the volume low at first.

If this works, then I can source a 2-channel amp that accepts high-level input, or else put in an AudioControl LC2i plus a 2-channel amp.