SPL adjustable LCA and tension rod install

[matthewr87]

They WILL make it right…..theyre one of the few companies that stand behind their products. call turner monday and theyll send out new ones but i have all their stuff on both cars and had never had an issue.

are those the new tapered bolts they released or the old style

New style bolts. I'll give them a call. To be honest having this bolt snap like this has scared me a bit. I'm not sure if I'm going to reinstall them even if they send me a replacement. Plus I have no idea how I'm going to get the broken end out of the bearing on the arm.

Also there are inconsistencies with the torque values for the tension rod studs. In the manual that came with my tension rods (Manual Rev A) they say to torque to 160 ft lbs, which is different than the LCA studs (180 ft lbs). But now that I look at the website they have a Manual Rev B for the tension rods which also says 180 ft lbs (just like the LCA studs). This does not inspire confidence.....

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[Tonymustang302]

you did something wrong. I giant bolt like that doesn't just snap.

someone on this forum had a full tilt boogie upper rear control arm fail on them so it happens

 

[matthewr87]

you did something wrong. I giant bolt like that doesn't just snap.

someone on this forum had a full tilt boogie upper rear control arm fail on them so it happens

I would love to know what I could have done wrong then. I followed the instructions meticulously. I used a trusted torque wrench to tighten everything down. I did that side first and the other side. Nothing snapped until I decided to check the torque on my caliper nuts. What could I have possibly done that would have led to a failure of such a giant bolt using simple hand tools? I have no idea.

 

[matthewr87]

So I just spoke to Turner. He was nice enough to call me on a holiday. Apparently this has happened three times before. He is actively trying to figure out what is causing the issue and has worked with his supplier to change the way the studs are heat treated, etc. He is going to send me replacement studs with the new parameters.

 

[Tonymustang302]

see, there you go. You have an answer from a standout company.

 

[matthewr87]

see, there you go. You have an answer from a standout company.

While I do appreciate the fact that he answered my email immediately, and that they are clearly trying to take steps to address the issue, I must admit the fact that three studs have failed like this with no explanation is quite worrying. Supposedly in all three failure cases the stud was mounted to the knuckle and fully torqued to 180 ft lbs before the LCA was mounted and the bottom nut also tightened to 180 ft lbs. However, this is not surprising because this is literally the procedure outlined in the manual. He said that next time I should tighten the top nut, mount the LCA, tighten the bottom nut, and THEN torque both nuts to 180 ft lbs. In any case, apparently they have been unable to replicate this type of failure in house and it is impossible to truly fix an issue if the underlying cause is unknown. I am just lucky this happened in the garage and not on the road or track.

 

[matthewr87]

Okay I managed to finish the install with the new studs that SPL sent me. I did a quick drive around the neighborhood and nothing snapped and the clunking noise I had with the OEM arms and rods is gone. However the steering is all over the place now even though I tried to replicate the OEM measurements; the tires seem to be skipping when turning close to lock. I don't think I'll be able to make it to the alignment shop without adjusting the toe; it looks like I have significant toe in right now and the steering wheel pulls into the turn rather than straighting the wheel. In any case, which direction do I turn the steering rod in order to increase toe out? Thanks!

 

[WItoTX]

Okay I managed to finish the install with the new studs that SPL sent me. I did a quick drive around the neighborhood and nothing snapped and the clunking noise I had with the OEM arms and rods is gone. However the steering is all over the place now even though I tried to replicate the OEM measurements; the tires seem to be skipping when turning close to lock. I don't think I'll be able to make it to the alignment shop without adjusting the toe; it looks like I have significant toe in right now and the steering wheel pulls into the turn rather than straighting the wheel. In any case, which direction do I turn the steering rod in order to increase toe out? Thanks!

If you're going less than 10-15 miles, I wouldn't worry about it. Depending on the surface mine skip too at full lock, and my alignment is ever so slightly toe in.

 

[matthewr87]

If you're going less than 10-15 miles, I wouldn't worry about it. Depending on the surface mine skip too at full lock, and my alignment is ever so slightly toe in.

Yeah my preferred shop is like 25 miles away. I am going to try a local one (3 miles away) that also has an in-ground Hunter alignment rack. I'm going to bring the SPL instructions with me; hopefully they are able to do it without screwing anything up (e.g., attempting to tighten the adjustment screws to 150 ft lbs instead of inch lbs...). Maybe I'll bring my own torque wrench and see if they let me tighten it myself.

 

[WItoTX]

Yeah my preferred shop is like 25 miles away. I am going to try a local one (3 miles away) that also has an in-ground Hunter alignment rack. I'm going to bring the SPL instructions with me; hopefully they are able to do it without screwing anything up (e.g., attempting to tighten the adjustment screws to 150 ft lbs instead of inch lbs...). Maybe I'll bring my own torque wrench and see if they let me tighten it myself.

Those SPL arms, I wouldn't trust just anyone with them. How much you trust the local shop???

 

[matthewr87]

Those SPL arms, I wouldn't trust just anyone with them. How much you trust the local shop???

I have no experience with them. But I have no choice because I won't make it the 25 miles to the trusted shop with how the car steers now. I'll have a chat with them first and see how they communicate and what they say when I show them the adjustment instructions.

 

[galaxy]

Another reason to learn how to do your own alignments at home. One of the most satisfying things I’ve ever learned to do.

 

[matthewr87]

Another reason to learn how to do your own alignments at home. One of the most satisfying things I’ve ever learned to do.

I've seen those DYI kits that they sell but I don't have a lift so I have no way to get under the car with all the wheels loaded. Conceivably I could raise it with my quick jack and then lower onto some race ramp blocks but seems like the precision would probably not be there.

 

[galaxy]

I’ve tried everything, including all the things you mentioned. My most accurate, repeatable results came once I started with this process; set up and measure, lift to adjust, back down to the ground, roll around to settle, measure to check your results. Repeat as necessary. Time consuming? Yes, can be. But you get faster. And you also learn how much a fraction of a turn nets you in degrees at a wheel, and so forth.

 

[matthewr87]

I’ve tried everything, including all the things you mentioned. My most accurate, repeatable results came once I started with this process; set up and measure, lift to adjust, back down to the ground, roll around to settle, measure to check your results. Repeat as necessary. Time consuming? Yes, can be. But you get faster. And you also learn how much a fraction of a turn nets you in degrees at a wheel, and so forth.

What DIY alignment equipment do you use?

Also, after doing the SPL LCA and tension rod install I have way too much toe in on both sides. I tried to measure the length of the OEM components and match those measurements with the SPL arms but because they are different shapes it was virtually impossible to get it right.

So, if I wanted to decrease toe in, should I add some more camber? Or decrease positive caster?

I am trying to figure out why the toe changed so much and its either I have too much positive caster (I made the SPL arms too short) or not enough camber (made the LCAs too short) or a combination of both.

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