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Should I ditch my P1X for Whipple/VMP?..

KKell83

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Hi all,
I have a manual 2015 Mustang GT with a H.O. stage 2 P1X kit and the parts below:

3.6” pulley - 11psi
2018+ intake manifold
Tial Q 50mm bov
MAF relocation w/straightener
FIC1000s
DW 415lph w/Procharger BAP
Kooks catted long tubes
Kooks 3” full exhaust
Boundry oil/timing chain gear
Centerforce twin disc
And much more…

Well, I’m writing this post in the hopes someone chimes in and says ‘these kits are worth a damn’ since I’ve just been going on a mental rollercoaster with tuners which are having difficulties - I’ll leave their names anonymous. My car isn’t anything wild! Idle is usually good, WOT is too, but drivability suffers.

I cannot comment on power since I haven’t really experienced it’s actual potential in over a year. For those curious, I am a centri fan boy and that’s after I owned a past Roush on my 2011 as well as ALL three power adders on my 3v Mustang. There’s just something special when you listen to it whistle and hear the bov.

But at what point do you call it quits, and change up your build OR even just sell the car? Should I find a company worthy of tuning the car as it currently sits?..
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SheepDog

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I had the P1X on my 2017, along with the 2018 manifold, IMRC Lockouts, Fuel system, E85, Kooks long tubes, and a mountain of other stuff. Anyway, I never had drivability issues with it. It was Lund tuned (not saying to go with them, as I now use Wengerd) And that car drove better than stock ever did.

What kind of Drivability issues are you having?
 
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KKell83

KKell83

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I had the P1X on my 2017, along with the 2018 manifold, IMRC Lockouts, Fuel system, E85, Kooks long tubes, and a mountain of other stuff. Anyway, I never had drivability issues with it. It was Lund tuned (not saying to go with them, as I now use Wengerd) And that car drove better than stock ever did.

What kind of Drivability issues are you having?
Oh, interesting! What made you change? So you had a P1X?.. what made you chose Wengerd Performance vs Lund again? Go ahead and IM me if it’s sensitive info.

So my car bucks with and without CC set,
and even with a slight load; it almost feels like the throttle is applied then taken off throttle, on throttle off throttle. Anywhere within the rpm’s and worse when there’s hills. It’s just not enjoyable cruising. Mind you, this wasn’t always the case - I’m working with my IMRCs since a certain tuner suggestions it.
 

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Oh, interesting! What made you change? So you had a P1X?.. what made you chose Wengerd Performance vs Lund again? Go ahead and IM me if it’s sensitive info.

So my car bucks with and without CC set,
and even with a slight load; it almost feels like the throttle is applied then taken off throttle, on throttle off throttle. Anywhere within the rpm’s and worse when there’s hills. It’s just not enjoyable cruising. Mind you, this wasn’t always the case - I’m working with my IMRCs since a certain tuner suggestions it.
I have a MACH1 now. I switched to Wengerd initially because he answered a bunch of questions for me, even before I had purchased a tune from him. He gets lots of great reviews, and I can confirm that the E85 tune he gave me is perfect. The big name tuners like Lund and PBD don't seem to have the same level of customer service they once had, but that's not to say you wouldn't get a good tune from them.

It sucks to have to pay for multiple tunes just to get someone who can figure out your specific setup, but trust me - Perfect drivability is totally possible for your car.

It's really only one of two possibilities - you either have mechanical issues which includes loose connections, vacuum leaks, bad sensor/s etc. or your tune is shyte.

Bucking, stumbling, hesitation is generally associated with air flow/metering issues, but can certainly be caused by fuel problems as well.

Pretty sure that when you swap the 18' manifold onto a Gen 2 car, it is better to just lockout the IMRC's, and tune accordingly for it
 

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KKell83

KKell83

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I have a MACH1 now. I switched to Wengerd initially because he answered a bunch of questions for me, even before I had purchased a tune from him. He gets lots of great reviews, and I can confirm that the E85 tune he gave me is perfect. The big name tuners like Lund and PBD don't seem to have the same level of customer service they once had, but that's not to say you wouldn't get a good tune from them.

It sucks to have to pay for multiple tunes just to get someone who can figure out your specific setup, but trust me - Perfect drivability is totally possible for your car.

It's really only one of two possibilities - you either have mechanical issues which includes loose connections, vacuum leaks, bad sensor/s etc. or your tune is shyte.

Bucking, stumbling, hesitation is generally associated with air flow/metering issues, but can certainly be caused by fuel problems as well.

Pretty sure that when you swap the 18' manifold onto a Gen 2 car, it is better to just lockout the IMRC's, and tune accordingly for it
Appreciate the update and the sense of ease. I glad these cars can run well; id say for the most part my first tuner did well but upped and moved (you may guess) while we were still in the logging process. The newest one… well, they recommend I reverted back to functioning IMRCs and the process hasn’t been great, but they tuned my past car years ago with great success.
 
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KKell83

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Ive ran P1sc, D1x and f1a94. No drivability issues here, PBD tuned.

What are you experiencing? Maf in IC or gt350 tube?
I’m experiencing a lot of bucking. Having great customer service but still the problem persists. MAF has been moved into a 10” tube.
 

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Appreciate the update and the sense of ease. I glad these cars can run well; id say for the most part my first tuner did well but upped and moved (you may guess) while we were still in the logging process. The newest one… well, they recommend I reverted back to functioning IMRCs and the process hasn’t been great, but they tuned my past car years ago with great success.
The IMRC's do not need to be functional for the car to run properly. They are designed to improve torque at certain RPM's by changing the functional runner length in the intake manifold, but with a blower, you don't need that anymore since so much more air is entering the motor, and a ton more torque is available across the rev range. It is important that your new tuner understands that you intend on having a functioning IMRC, and also understands that you have the MAF in the tube, instead of in the intercooler as Procharger originally designed it. The MAF Scaling is different.

Another possibility is that you don't have the vacuum tubing and vacuum pods hooked up correctly on the 18 Manifold.
 
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KKell83

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The IMRC's do not need to be functional for the car to run properly. They are designed to improve torque at certain RPM's by changing the functional runner length in the intake manifold, but with a blower, you don't need that anymore since so much more air is entering the motor, and a ton more torque is available across the rev range. It is important that your new tuner understands that you intend on having a functioning IMRC, and also understands that you have the MAF in the tube, instead of in the intercooler as Procharger originally designed it. The MAF Scaling is different.

Another possibility is that you don't have the vacuum tubing and vacuum pods hooked up correctly on the 18 Manifold.
This was already relayed to the tuner before we started the whole process. Appreciate your write up though.

And I originally locked them in the past but this time around I actually wanted them intact for mileage and cleaner drivability (tuner agreed); but that’s not happening! Haha. So he has the whole picture as to what my modifications are and has confirmed the routing is correct.
 

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Ive ran P1sc, D1x and f1a94. No drivability issues here, PBD tuned.

What are you experiencing? Maf in IC or gt350 tube?
Was gonna ask the same. Tuners usually dislike the MAF on the IC which is my setup currently. I was gonna change it to the gt350 chargepipe but as it sits I dont feel anything unusual. It can be tuned with Maf on the IC. Not sure how much of a diff it would be otherwise??
 

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They are designed to improve torque at certain RPM's by changing the functional runner length in the intake manifold,
On our mustangs it is not IMRC, it is CMCV Charge Motion Control Valve. It does not lengthen the intake port. It adds a restriction that speeds up airflow into the head. This allows the lean cruising mixtures to fully burn.

I know technical but I like to have factual information floating around.
 

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On our mustangs it is not IMRC, it is CMCV Charge Motion Control Valve. It does not lengthen the intake port. It adds a restriction that speeds up airflow into the head. This allows the lean cruising mixtures to fully burn.

I know technical but I like to have factual information floating around.
I stand corrected. Either way, in my opinion they aren't needed when a supercharger is part of the equation. I guess they could still assist with efficiency at cruise, but I never had a single drivability issue with mine locked out.
 

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I guess they could still assist with efficiency at cruise, but I never had a single drivability issue with mine locked out.
I don't notice much difference either way.
 
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KKell83

KKell83

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I stand corrected. Either way, in my opinion they aren't needed when a supercharger is part of the equation. I guess they could still assist with efficiency at cruise, but I never had a single drivability issue with mine locked out.
I'm not saying anyone's wrong about keeping them or removing them, I just went based on the tuners recommendations. Needless to say, I asked if I can lock them out again, which he agreed. So we'll see.
 

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Who’s your tuner? Maybe Wengerd is your next line up.

I don’t have bucking issue as well, but my build seems fairly simple.

I think it’s a waste of everything if something can get fixed instead of buying another car and build again imo.
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