Whats not compatible bud? I decided on a different route for now but can share whatever ive learned. Lmk.
If nothing changed between the 20 Mustang and the 21 Mustang you could try to flash the DSR1 or AR as a 2020 Mustang. I did that with mine to test something at one point and it did work.
The RF DSP device. What route did you end up going? I was thinking Audio Control LC7 and replace front/rear speakers and a dual 12 box. I may just start with replacing the B&O sub first and see how it sounds.
How did this set up work out for you?Thanks for the replies peeps, the stock 9 speaker system got better when i added my sub, really filled in the bottom end...however after rocking it this way for a while i started to notice crackling and popping in the speakers...volumes over 19....after some further research as much as i dont mind tearing into it....im going to leave it for another day. The rockford dsp i was planning to use seems to have some werid feedback on things. That, along with the cost of multi channel amps...ill back burner it.
For now, i ended up going with crutchfiels recommendations, plug & play PB set up for doors n deck, Infiniti 3.5s for doors. I've read were this alone has made a difference that many were happy with....well see.
not installed yet. i figured while at, attempt to sound deaden things too. so i ordered a box, its been delivered and now im just staring at the pile of goodies to go in. I also ordered Forscan tool, downloaded software and getting ready to turn off the eq. hoping this is a win when complete. I'll post up results when done.
Thanks for this write up. Really interested in hearing how you feel after listening to it for more time. Did you end up disabling the factory tweeters in the A pillar? I have the same woofers in the doors and also switched out the tweeters that came with them. After some time I came to dislike the sound as I noticed some weird popping from the woofers when turned up. I was going to put it back to stock since I didnāt hear it that way. I started with the tweeters and was going to do the woofers the next day and noticed the popping was completely gone with the stock tweeters back in. I can only assume it was due to the impedance mismatch from the 4 ohm tweeters I put in, which are wired parallel with the 3.5s. The 3.5s you installed are 3 ohm? If you still have the factory tweeters installed then the total impedance is like 2.2 ohm now instead of 4 (8 ohm and 8 ohm parallel factory). Really curious if you come across the same issue I did.
Hey Mike, no i have not disabled the factory A pillar tweets yet... I was going to put the PB tweets in but after more reading and coming to find they are probably not that necessary, will just leave them alone for the time being. so far, the few minutes in it yesterday i felt like the sound deading helped a lot in the doors, sounded more dense imo. no rattling.
Yes, I do have an opinion on that. I was hesitant to do it, wasnāt sure what was actually happening when āflattening the EQā. I wasnāt convinced by what I was reading here. I wasnāt going to buy the OBD interface just for that. But I ended up wanting my DRL situation fixed enough to buy it for that purpose and while I āwas in thereā I decided to try the EQ thing as well, knowing I could just switch it back. Iāll tell you what, I wish it was the first thing I did. As it is now, I think the biggest place the 9 speaker falls down is the 3.5s in the door, hence my interest in this thread. The rears are almost non existent as far as I can tell and I wouldnāt mind getting more out of them, so thatās something I may tackle down the road.
Back speaker removal/install sucks, mostly because the rear bolt is so close to the glass youāll need a small ratchet elbow or a 7mm allen socket and a ratcheting 1/4ā wrench. A 90 degree wrench is still too tall to fit.
From what i read, apparently the b & o falls short for what some people would expect from the premo grade radio.