TechGuy
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- Nov 21, 2015
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- SE Florida
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- 2016 GT Premium Convertible - Magnetic
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Wait, what? I'm pretty sure these hoods are 100% aluminium so there should be no galvanic corrosion, only aluminium oxidation.Undercoating will do nothing for galvanic corrosion. Unless you can get the coating in between the steel and aluminum, you can't prevent dissimilar metals from corroding.
I'm glad they're giving you a new hood because even if sanded and repainted, that area will always corrode. No way to repair this issue. You can only replace and hope for the best.
It is contamination of the aluminium panel under the paint with small amounts of steel that sets it off. Not just Ford that has the problem, Jaguar have certainly been struggling with it for years. Plenty of cars don't do it but obviously some do.Wait, what? I'm pretty sure these hoods are 100% aluminium so there should be no galvanic corrosion, only aluminium oxidation.
Aluminium oxidation can definitely be treated and you can prevent this from happening further. The trick is to make sure its completely neutralised before painting. And body shops don't do that. They just sand it back and prime.
Once you have sanded all the corrosion away you need neutralise the aluminium oxide reaction with an acid, then you can seal and paint. You need to make sure you're thorough with the neutralising. That's the key. I work in the marine sector and we treat aluminium corrosion all the time.
You wish man. Ha ha. Only the sheetmetal is aluminum. I suspected that by how heavy the damn hood is. Took a magnet to the 'frame' of the hood, and it's mostly steel. My hood had a lot of paint issues around where it bolts to the hinges, and a lot of unpainted areas as well. Touched it up with Ford touch-up paint, but of course it doesn't look good, but at least better than before, since it was whitish primer over dark green. Not a big deal to me, I guess because I was mentally ready for crappy Ford QC, and it wasn't visible from the outside.I'm pretty sure these hoods are 100% aluminium
Been going on since 2005 with the first S197. I don't know why Ford hasn't fixed this after this long.Ford won’t fix this issue, yeah the give you new hood but in a year the new hood will do the same thing. This problem has been going on since 2009.
Dayum!! I'll try the magnet test tomorrow. Curiosity got me now! lolYou wish man. Ha ha. Only the sheetmetal is aluminum. I suspected that by how heavy the damn hood is. Took a magnet to the 'frame' of the hood, and it's mostly steel. My hood had a lot of paint issues around where it bolts to the hinges, and a lot of unpainted areas as well. Touched it up with Ford touch-up paint, but of course it doesn't look good, but at least better than before, since it was whitish primer over dark green. Not a big deal to me, I guess because I was mentally ready for crappy Ford QC, and it wasn't visible from the outside.
But at least mine hasn't 'bubbled' yet, but need to scrutinize it closely. The bummer is replacement hoods don't come painted from the factory. My experience with repainted parts, even from the best shops in town, is never the same. And yes, I live in a crappy city. Ha ha. But if you were to take it to a truly expert shop, like Kindig It, they'd probably charge 10 grand to paint the damn hood, if at all. Ha ha.
So not sure what's up with your hood, but i just ran a magnet all over and under mine, and it is 100% aluminium.You wish man. Ha ha. Only the sheetmetal is aluminum. I suspected that by how heavy the damn hood is. Took a magnet to the 'frame' of the hood, and it's mostly steel. My hood had a lot of paint issues around where it bolts to the hinges, and a lot of unpainted areas as well. Touched it up with Ford touch-up paint, but of course it doesn't look good, but at least better than before, since it was whitish primer over dark green. Not a big deal to me, I guess because I was mentally ready for crappy Ford QC, and it wasn't visible from the outside.
But at least mine hasn't 'bubbled' yet, but need to scrutinize it closely. The bummer is replacement hoods don't come painted from the factory. My experience with repainted parts, even from the best shops in town, is never the same. And yes, I live in a crappy city. Ha ha. But if you were to take it to a truly expert shop, like Kindig It, they'd probably charge 10 grand to paint the damn hood, if at all. Ha ha.
You wont be able to detect it with a magnet. The problem is that during manufacturing, tiny amount of steel or other particles get embedded in the aluminum. Eventually, galvanic corrosion occurs.So not sure what's up with your hood, but i just ran a magnet all over and under mine, and it is 100% aluminium.
Can you give some advice for neutralizing. I am going to try and slow down my corrosion. My bubbling is under the lip but right up to the front edge of my 16 gt Oxford white. I plan to carefully grind as much bubble as I can. I then plan epoxy primer and touch up. Any advice of what to do before primer?Wait, what? I'm pretty sure these hoods are 100% aluminium so there should be no galvanic corrosion, only aluminium oxidation.
Aluminium oxidation can definitely be treated and you can prevent this from happening further. The trick is to make sure its completely neutralised before painting. And body shops don't do that. They just sand it back and prime.
Once you have sanded all the corrosion away you need neutralise the aluminium oxide reaction with an acid, then you can seal and paint. You need to make sure you're thorough with the neutralising. That's the key. I work in the marine sector and we treat aluminium corrosion all the time
Yeah, no i get that. I was referring to Elp's comment about the frame being made of steel.You wont be able to detect it with a magnet. The problem is that during manufacturing, tiny amount of steel or other particles get embedded in the aluminum. Eventually, galvanic corrosion occurs.
Nobody is saying that Ford intentionally put dissimilar metals in the hood material, they should be 100% aluminum, but it's probably more like 99.9% and the other .1% is what causes the issues.
The evidence for this is that even after people have their hood professionally stripped, sealed, and repainted, the issue reoccurs after a while. Usually in the same exact spot.
First we sand down the metal to get it as clean as possible. Then we apply Oxyphos to the metal for a few minutes, and rinse. We do that at least 2 or 3 times making sure the phosphoric acid gets everywhere. We then sand one last time, wipe with alcohol, and immediately spray 2 coats of etch primer. Then we start the painting process.Can you give some advice for neutralizing. I am going to try and slow down my corrosion. My bubbling is under the lip but right up to the front edge of my 16 gt Oxford white. I plan to carefully grind as much bubble as I can. I then plan epoxy primer and touch up. Any advice of what to do before primer?