Well it "should" be 91 octane, I buy from the same top tier station religiously and live in SoCal so we shouldn't be seeing winter vs. summer gas. Bad batch, maybe but issue is on going and I can literally make the OAR drop at crusing speed by bumping the throttle from 1500-1700 to 2300-2400 and letting off before accel actually kicks in.
If you are looking for every ounce of power out of the stock turbo definitely do a downpipe and catback. When I say minimal gains we are looking at 10hp max on a pump gas car, and a little more with race gas. For the people looking for a little more power without too much noise they can retain the stock downpipe and not be limited too much.
Because you don't have a catch can more than likely. When I pull an intake manifold off a Ecoboost that doesn't have a catch can it actually has a stream of oil coming out of it. I would recommend picking up our breather/catch can on the website, they will be back in stock next week.
You are nearing the throttle limiter, if you are in the throttle and there is no continued acceleration that means you are at the throttle limiter which starts in around 6400rpms and keeps you from hitting the hard limiter which is fuel cut.
Early engine tend to be the problem child even for stock tuned vehicles. The majority of the failures out there are early 2015 builds (Pre May/June 2015). I have only seen one, non-customer fault engine failure on a newer engine and that was on a competing tune and they told them it was because he ran race gas. Not sure of the actual fault but it was a new engine, and it wasn't a mistake on the customers end like not putting in oil after an oil change, or putting in the wrong spark plugs.
When you are cruising around the engine is rocking back and forth a large amount. This can cause the knock sensors to pick up noise and think that it is knocking when it is just engine movement. DI cars like to ping a lot at low engine speeds, pre-ignition. It isn't that huge of a deal, but with a tune if a customer is concerned we can always make adjustments to pull some timing out at lower RPM. Will be a little more "doggy" but will keep their mind at ease.
Yes and no, a lot of the southern states don't usually change the fuel blend during the winter, but I have been surprised before. It is best practice to keep an eye on boost and ignition corrections during the colder months to make sure you aren't getting any heavy corrections or high boost. I limit boost but if something is wrong with the car it can overpower the throttle and force it open because the electronic motor in the throttle body isn't strong enough to overcome high boost. I always tell my customers they can send me a log at anytime during winter/summer to make sure everything is ok. Open Email policy ;).
As mentioned, nothing is going to prevent carbon build up. However, a catch can like the UPR, or our TUNE+ Breather/Catch can kit will reduce the build up and delay the inevitable of needing the valves walnut blasted.
They do not, the FRPP cams are worthless 100%. If you want a real set of cams, we sell the Esslinger Stage 2 camshafts.
Pressure comes in from the replacement breather plate that we include in our kit. Both send crankcase pressure to the can and it is collected there, and the remaining pressure escapes through the top filter. The intake manifold gets a vacuum cap on the 90° connector from the factory hose.
There are no aftermarket blocks, we just upgrade the factory block with sleeves or CSS. We have complete engines available:
Based on what I've read, that seems to be the case. I guess the question then becomes, is there a turbo upgrade for someone who doesn't want to touch the block? And if so, is it even worth it?
Glad you got it sorted. I would never put 87oct in these cars, and definitely wouldn't load anything on the car that has 87oct and "performance" in the title lol.Adam - thanks for taking the time. FWIW, I will happily exchange speed for dependability when it comes to a response to my question(s)
So - the throttle limiter you suggested was my issue...
As I said - it feels EXACTLY like that is what was going on. No frightening noises, no smoke, no bucking or audible detonation - just a feeling of having reached a plateau. But doesn't the "typical" e-mailed tune eliminate that feature/function? I guess I need to take a closer look at the list of parameters in my programmer next time!
Maybe it's a speed limiter that is eliminated with a tune(?) Could that be it? I might have the two mixed up.
* * Update * *
Twice in the last cuppla days I have re-created the same conditions as before, and there was no anomalous performance. Both times I wound it up to 6800 or so in third gear, and it was fine. I guess it was indeed inferior octane fuel in reference to the loaded map. (It's worth noting that -- the day after the second time I spoke about, I uploaded the 87OC-PERF map that I had thought was in there.)
So...AFAIC, all is well.
Many thanks!
It is just that documented issues with engines have been the earlier models and Ford is on their 4th part number for these blocks. Making changes everytime.
Corrects to 2.5? Did you mean it goes positive 2.5? That is normal, you don't want negative corrections.
If you have 93oct fuel available you should be running it, you aren't saving any money or doing yourself any favors by using a lower grade fuel.
It all depends on how much power you want to make. To this day, I have had ZERO failures with stock blocks and upgraded turbos. I tune without a waiver to roughly the 420whp mark, beyond that it will require a waiver saying you are basically playing with fire. Josh Beasley, the current MT record holder was on stock block with MAP turbo kit and my E85 kit making near 500whp on stock block. Never had an issue, but now I'm building his engine completely to make even more power!
In the Grapvine/NW Dallas Area.
whatttt
thanks for showing TX some love considering where you're currently at. I will be making the drive for a dyno tune, I can only assume that will be offered