What did you do to your Mach 1 today

[MACHtobers Very Own]

Washed it. Then it rained :-/ but car is an outdoor car so it'll be ok.

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[Diode Dynamics]

Installed Diode Dynamics sequential turn signals/DRL's yesterday. It was a job! I really didn't want to take the front bumper cover off but i just couldn't live with those incandescent bulbs out front lol! Turned out it wasn't too difficult, definitely needed an extra set of hands though. Took me about 5 hours and I didn't break anything I didn't back the car out so I can't get a full-frontal view yet, but I will say they are a major improvement. The sequential is nice

Looking good!

 

[quickDraw]

Finally got to the 1,000 mile mark. Gave her a bath, emptied the oil catch can and checked the oil. The oil catch can had about 1 ounce in it so that is doing it's job. Oil level is approaching the min mark on the dipstick. I'd say it's between the min mark and half way. It was at the max mark when I got her. Been checking it every so often and the level continues to drop. The tail pipes looked a little splotchy but that may be normal. The owners manual has a note stating "The oil consumption of new engines reaches its normal level after approximately 3,000 miles". So maybe the oil consumption I'm seeing is normal. When it hits the min mark should I just do an oil change or top it off? I was planning on doing an oil change at 3k but I doubt I get that many miles on her before I hit the min mark. Anyone have any thoughts on this oil consumption and what my next steps should be?

 

[SkYLiNe00X]

Finally got to the 1,000 mile mark. Gave her a bath, emptied the oil catch can and checked the oil. The oil catch can had about 1 ounce in it so that is doing it's job. Oil level is approaching the min mark on the dipstick. I'd say it's between the min mark and half way. It was at the max mark when I got her. Been checking it ever so often and the level continues to drop. The tail pipes looked a little splotchy but that may be normal. The owners manual has a note stating "The oil consumption of new engines reaches its normal level after approximately 3,000 miles". So maybe the oil consumption I'm seeing is normal. When it hits the min mark should I just do an oil change or top it off? I was planning on doing an oil change at 3k but I doubt I get that many miles on her before I hit the min mark. Anyone have any thoughts on this oil consumption and what my next steps should be?

"emptied the oil catch can"
Can you show me where it is located and how?

I just did my first engine oil change too. Because the computer shows me oil life just passes under 50% on 3700 miles normal drive, but the oil level is still between max & min dots.

 

[quickDraw]

"emptied the oil catch can"
Can you show me where it is located and how?

I just did my first engine oil change too. Because the computer shows me oil life just passes under 50% on 3700 miles normal drive, but the oil level is still between max & min dots.

I installed a FP oil catch can. It sits behind the Mishimoto expansion tank that replaced the ugly OEM plastic tank.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

I installed a FP oil catch can. It sits behind the Mishimoto expansion tank that replaced the ugly OEM plastic tank.

Nice, I am going to upgrade mine soon. I bet they will use the same fugly coolant reservoir on the s650 lol

 

[KrucaBomba]

I have just received a J&L oil catch can. The cheapest I was able to find in EU was EUR 229 + shipping - much more than price in US.

 

[Skye]

Finally got to the 1,000 mile mark. Gave her a bath, emptied the oil catch can and checked the oil. The oil catch can had about 1 ounce in it so that is doing it's job. Oil level is approaching the min mark on the dipstick. I'd say it's between the min mark and half way. It was at the max mark when I got her. Been checking it every so often and the level continues to drop. The tail pipes looked a little splotchy but that may be normal. The owners manual has a note stating "The oil consumption of new engines reaches its normal level after approximately 3,000 miles". So maybe the oil consumption I'm seeing is normal. When it hits the min mark should I just do an oil change or top it off? I was planning on doing an oil change at 3k but I doubt I get that many miles on her before I hit the min mark. Anyone have any thoughts on this oil consumption and what my next steps should be?

I just passed 1,000 mi / 1609 km before winter storage.

I've checked my oil cold and hot, noting the differences. Cold, it is one or two "X"s below full. Hot, as the oil has now expanded, it sits right at Full. I keep a log book so I can review history. FWIW, if you asked 10 owners here to check their oil levels, you'd probably get 10 different readings.

Catch can has about the same amount of oil in it as yours.

I noticed the same in the manual. There is one reference to 1,000 mi / 1609 km, the break-in period, and then the sentence you quote.

Several have commented to the factory fill, that it's not 100% the same as what you buy off the shelf. Additives are used to assist with break in. I have no proof of that, but I agree with the idea of it. The average owner doesn't necessarily give their cars the care and attention we do.

IMO, I'd top off the recommended Motorcraft oil and keep going until you reach a mileage you'd like to change (unless you'e hitting that now). At one extreme, the Oil Monitor will continue countdown and alarm at the one year mark. At the other, you'll reach a mileage or use point the car considers it time to change.

With storage, oil monitor, calendar, mileage, etc., I expect to have my first change now, not at 1,000 mi / 1609 km, but more likely 1,500 mi / 2414 km. I don't think something by itself (holding the factory fill a bit longer) would have a significant impact. Over the life of the car, little things have a cumulative effect (positive, I hope). My belief anyway.

 

[Skye]

I have just received a J&L oil catch can. The cheapest I was able to find in EU was EUR 229 + shipping - much more than price in US.

Sorry to hear the pricing differences are that great. The J&L piece is nice though. I've enjoyed mine.

 

[kellyreno]

I installed a FP oil catch can. It sits behind the Mishimoto expansion tank that replaced the ugly OEM plastic tank.

What are the advantages/disadvantages with the various catch cans? Ease/difficulty of install and dumping?
FP M-6766-A50A $250
AAD $270 (looks like hoses are not included)
J+L $160
I dont race my car, well maybe up and back to the Speedy Mart. Do I really need one?
Thanks, a lot of good information is found here.

 

[quickDraw]

I just passed 1,000 mi / 1609 km before winter storage.

I've checked my oil cold and hot, noting the differences. Cold, it is one or two "X"s below full. Hot, as the oil has now expanded, it sits right at Full. I keep a log book so I can review history. FWIW, if you asked 10 owners here to check their oil levels, you'd probably get 10 different readings.

Catch can has about the same amount of oil in it as yours.

I noticed the same in the manual. There is one reference to 1,000 mi / 1609 km, the break-in period, and then the sentence you quote.

Several have commented to the factory fill, that it's not 100% the same as what you buy off the shelf. Additives are used to assist with break in. I have no proof of that, but I agree with the idea of it. The average owner doesn't necessarily give their cars the care and attention we do.

IMO, I'd top off the recommended Motorcraft oil and keep going until you reach a mileage you'd like to change (unless you'e hitting that now). At one extreme, the Oil Monitor will continue countdown and alarm at the one year mark. At the other, you'll reach a mileage or use point the car considers it time to change.

With storage, oil monitor, calendar, mileage, etc., I expect to have my first change now, not at 1,000 mi / 1609 km, but more likely 1,500 mi / 2414 km. I don't think something by itself (holding the factory fill a bit longer) would have a significant impact. Over the life of the car, little things have a cumulative effect (positive, I hope). My belief anyway.

Thanks Skye for your input. I have not checked the oil level when she's hot. I'll go for a drive, say 30 minutes, and check the oil 5 or so minutes after the drive. Will continue to monitor both hot and cold oil measurements. I'll top her off with Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Synthetic Blend once she gets really close to the min mark when she's cold. Will report back every so often with any updates.

 

[RTFM]

What are the advantages/disadvantages with the various catch cans? Ease/difficulty of install and dumping?
FP M-6766-A50A $250
AAD $270 (looks like hoses are not included)
J+L $160
I dont race my car, well maybe up and back to the Speedy Mart. Do I really need one?
Thanks, a lot of good information is found here.

In short: if you don’t race the car, you don’t need it. One fewer thing to monitor and maintain.

Rumor #1: some engine repairs have been refused and warranty voided b/c of catch cans.

Rumor #2: it catches a small fraction of the oil passing through, and you can see it build up overtime. But it serves no real purpose under normal use aside from that visual reassurance that it does some amount of catching (hence its name)

 

[quickDraw]

What are the advantages/disadvantages with the various catch cans? Ease/difficulty of install and dumping?
FP M-6766-A50A $250
AAD $270 (looks like hoses are not included)
J+L $160
I dont race my car, well maybe up and back to the Speedy Mart. Do I really need one?
Thanks, a lot of good information is found here.

Hey Dal. I'm no expert in oil catch cans. My guess is that each can has a filtration system. That along with construction, hoses, etc. drive the cost.

I settled on the FP oil catch for no particular reason. I bought it from Levittown Ford ($191). It was not hard for me to install. In order for me to clean it out I have to loosen 2 screws on the Mishimoto expansion tank where it's bolted down to the frame. I remove 4 screws on top of the FP oil catch can. Lift the top off of the can and soak up the oil and contaminants with a couple of those blue shop paper towels. Put it all back together and done. About 5 minutes. If you keep the OEM fugly expansion tank then you would simply disconnect the hoses from the catch can, lift the can off the support bracket and empty it out. Should only take a minute or 2.

The J&L and UPR cans are easier in that you simply unscrew the can and empty it out. I'm sure those are easy to install as well. I know UPR makes a can that sits near the windshield washer reservoir and is probably the easiest to use. If I had to do it all over again I'd probably go with the UPR ($200 on the UPR site) can that sits off to the side as opposed to right behind the expansion tank because it would be easier than what I have to go through with the FP can.

 

[kellyreno]

In short: if you don’t race the car, you don’t need it. One fewer thing to monitor and maintain.

Rumor #1: some engine repairs have been refused and warranty voided b/c of catch cans.

Rumor #2: it catches a small fraction of the oil passing through, and you can see it build up overtime. But it serves no real purpose under normal use aside from that visual reassurance that it does some amount of catching (hence its name)

I noted the FP part has a "off road only" warning. Why would this be if its a closed system?

 

[2022 Mach 1]

I noted the FP part has a "off road only" warning. Why would this be if its a closed system?

Cause it changes an emissions control device on the car.

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