Wet Sand/Cut/Polish/Wax/Buff

[Voo Doo]

Well, here's what I did. I've been into cars forever, detailing since the early 90's all my Muscle cars over the years. But I took it to my friends shop to help me. www.ragstorichestopshop.com they did the Optimus Prime Truck.all we did was the hood, front fenders, rear quarters, top and bottom flat areas of doors. Will finish the concave areas later.

1.Tape all edges and stay away from body ridges by about 1/4in. Tape windshield and fron cowl wiper area to keep the wet sanding out of the engine bay.
2.I used 2500 grit followed by 3000 grit. Easy does it, a little at a time you cannot be aggressive with Ford's Minuscule clear coat or you will burn thru it!
3.Hit it with a 9in.buffer and Meguiers Diamond Cut 2.0 compound. Again, easy does it. It heats it up so you can't stay in one area for too long.
4.Follow up with 9in. buffer and Risk Free Compound to remove final swirls.
5.Then with a two head sponge buffer Perfect Finish Premium Wax or what you prefer.
6.The bling at the end is called Flash Wax. It's a very thin liquid wax. A little on a clean sponge will do most of the car.
7. All applications were removed by microfibre cloths.
8. I finished it all up with a 9in. Buffer and new wool pad.

None of this is Rocket Science, just old school shine. Yes, a little messy in the door jambs, trunk lip, and engine compartment for clean up! For now I finished the un-wet sanded area with a good wax and polish.

Sorry it's so long but I was asked to share.

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[soldier989]

Very nice work! Looks like glass!

 

[Stage_3]

Great work. Mirror finish!

 

[Jon|3.7]

worthy!

 

[PatrickGT]

You used a wool pad AFTER you coated with sealant?

 

[Voo Doo]

You used a wool pad AFTER you coated with sealant?

Where does it say "sealant"? All products were cut, Polish and wax. All old school stuff. Yep, a 9 inch buffer and wool pad.

 

[Hogie]

That looks great, but our clear coat is thin enough I wouldn't do it to anything other than a trailer queen.

 

[Voo Doo]

That looks great, but our clear coat is thin enough I wouldn't do it to anything other than a trailer queen.

Yes, the decision was tough but the orange Peel really shows on a Black car. I would not touch any other Color. What can be done is a complete re-clear and wet Sand/polish by a body shop! $4-5 grand !!! Hey, it's only money!

Also, I have been into Hot Rods and Muscle Cars since the early 90's. I've had many! Just sold my last one last Sept. It was a 57 Chev. So I am very used to nice paint jobs!

 

[PatrickGT]

Where does it say "sealant"? All products were cut, Polish and wax. All old school stuff. Yep, a 9 inch buffer and wool pad.

It says "sealant" where you posted "flash wax" which is a synthetic sealant formulated primarily with DuPont Zonyl fluorosurficants and a small amount of Carnauba... Now why the wool pad after, which was my question originally?

 

[Voo Doo]

It says "sealant" where you posted "flash wax" which is a synthetic sealant formulated primarily with DuPont Zonyl fluorosurficants and a small amount of Carnauba... Now why the wool pad after, which was my question originally?[

Sorry Patrick, must be my old eyes but I still do not see the word "sealant" on my bottle of Flash Wax Part no.114432 ? All products were removed by microfibre cloths. My choice has always been a wool pad polish as my finish. I have been doing it this way since the early 90's ! I have owned over 20 high end Muscle Cars over the years, detailing them before every show and never had an issue with finish.

I would gladly like to hear how you do it and see some pics of your Mustang all shined up. Also. Would appreciate seeing where it says Zonyl is a sealant? Thanx always like to learn a thing or two.

:cheers:

 

[PatrickGT]

It's kind of semantics I suppose, any "wax" that has synthetic sealants in it is really a sealant... a true natural wax can really only be one thing and that is a natural wax product like Carnauba.

Zonyl is actually pretty interesting and widely used. It has good hydrophobic properties as well as good UV qualities that prevent it from yellowing like a lot of the synthetic silicon based products we've all been warned about:

http://www2.dupont.com/Capstone/en_...itives_for_coatings_technical_information.pdf

That white paper is pretty good at explaining the uses, concepts, and molecular makeup of Zonyl and why it is a great product. But... it is man-made, and therefore a sealant even if the bottle doesn't say it.... and honestly your product is probably better off for it as it will last longer than Carnauba in the elements and do a better job at protecting while the added Carnauba will bring back more of the natural gloss to the final step.

For my final stage I've honestly never done wool. Not saying you're wrong, but I kept asking because I also like to learn new techniques. I've typically used wool pads with a stronger cutting product due to the size of the fibers in the pad and fear of introducing more marring after polishing and waxing. I'm interested, though, so I am probably going to try this out for myself.

As for as my Mustang, you'll have to deal for now with the pics of my GTI because my Mustang is being built tomorrow and delivered in mid August. I'll for sure do a full "new car detail" thread on it because the dealer has agreed to leave it wrapped and let me do my own prep which is super nice. I'll be finishing with CQuartz UK Coating on that as well.

 

[PatrickGT]

Not the best lighting but this is a 4 year old 50K mile VW GTI in Deep Black Pearl (which they should have called dark grey blurple):

And a 50K mile interior that could pass for new:

Do I pass the test?

 

[Voo Doo]

Not the best lighting but this is a 4 year old 50K mile VW GTI in Deep Black Pearl (which they should have called dark grey blurple):

And a 50K mile interior that could pass for new:

Do I pass the test?

you would if I could see a pic! lol

 

[drabon74]

LOOKS GREAT!

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