Tire size

[WhiteyDog]

I have the 20x10 Niche Sport Targa's all around, with +40. 275/35 in front, 295/35 in back. Lowered on an Eibach pro-kit. No rubbing, no nothing, but those 305's and 315's look sweeeeet.

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[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

I have the 20x10 Niche Sport Targa's all around, with +40. 275/35 in front, 295/35 in back. Lowered on an Eibach pro-kit. No rubbing, no nothing, but those 305's and 315's look sweeeeet.

You can run the 305 or 315 brotha since the offset permits. I'd do a 305 since it's a 10 as the 315 buldges a bit too much.


Other then that minor camber adjustments may be needed depending on how they did the alignment that's all

 

[WhiteyDog]

My daily runs -3.5 front and -4.5 rear I daily drive and canyon the car tires do not wear out as quickly as everyone thinks. it comes down to maintenance.

That being said the gtpp comes with -1.5 rear factory so naturally if you lower the car you gain -.5 degrees so that's not a lot sir.

I didn't know that. Is that why I didn't need to do anything to the back when I put on the 295's?

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

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I didn't know that. Is that why I didn't need to do anything to the back when I put on the 295's?

Well the fitment you got is standard in the sense nothing is oversized. Also the lowering helped.

 

[Old 5 Oh]

My daily runs -3.5 front and -4.5 rear I daily drive and canyon the car tires do not wear out as quickly as everyone thinks. it comes down to maintenance.

Two thoughts. "Canyoning" is going to spread wear to the outside. Your higher camber offsets that and makes sense in your application. A guy driving city streets or freeways would not see your results with that much camber. Flat to the pavement is the goal, and static camber helps achieve that under typical side loads. The greater the side loads the car sees on a regular basis, the more camber it can typically use. But it takes experience to work out what makes sense for a particular car and application. The experience comes more quickly if you have a pyrometer and the willingness to check temps across the tire tread after a workout. That can be really instructive.

And maintenance? I guess if you dismount and remount the tires side to side (assuming the tires aren't asymmetric), you could balance the wear. Otherwise, the best you can do is keep the pressures up, and readjust the alignment settings if you are seeing abnormal or premature.

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

Two thoughts. "Canyoning" is going to spread wear to the outside. Your higher camber offsets that and makes sense in your application. A guy driving city streets or freeways would not see your results with that much camber. Flat to the pavement is the goal, and static camber helps achieve that under typical side loads. The greater the side loads the car sees on a regular basis, the more camber it can typically use. But it takes experience to work out what makes sense for a particular car and application. The experience comes more quickly if you have a pyrometer and the willingness to check temps across the tire tread after a workout. That can be really instructive.

And maintenance? I guess if you dismount and remount the tires side to side (assuming the tires aren't asymmetric), you could balance the wear. Otherwise, the best you can do is keep the pressures up, and readjust the alignment settings if you are seeing abnormal or premature.

You are correct , and as 2 men talking tires all go even deeper just a bit.


The vehicle is a daily driver which means canyon once a week or 2 weeks and the rest is driving on the streets (not speaking of my shelby). That being said temp is checked daily and alignments done every 3 months but I am a a bit overdoing it.


To run -2 degrees on a mustang can it effect wear yes of course anything can including lowering the car, but does it mean it's negative no IMO. I've done probably well over 1000 setups for the S550 to date no issues and a majority are running 315 rears. The only reason they adjust the camber is to course they are lowered.

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