Sync Disconnected - can't pay audio anymore

[brandonsmash]

Dumb question: where are the fuses?

Passenger footwell.

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[BEEJ1971]

SYNC 3 KILLIN ME!!!

I have a 2016 GT and the sync 3 is useless to me, it never connects to my Pandora, I cant use steering wheel controls when connected to my music library. The rhapsody and Sirius app suck when it comes to choosing music. On Sirius if you want to skip to the next song it changes to the next channel. I haven't even bothered with the rhapsody app because it connects when it feels like it. Any advice or ideas folks? All appreciated.

 

[FordIVTteam]

For the first time, while driving and listening to a podcast (I do this on my commute every day since I bought my car), my phone disconnected from my car. I reconnected, and it disconnected almost immediately. I rebooted my phone: same issue. I pulled over and shut my car off and pulled the door open to shut off the Bluetooth radio, closed the door, and turned everything back on: same issue. Unpaired my phone (in the phone settings and in the car settings) and re-paired it: same issue. Rebooted the car and the phone again: same issue. Now, it cycles through "connected" and "disconnected" states several times before giving up.

When it disconnects, a message shows on the car console saying the phone has been disconnected.

As soon as I begin playing audio, my HTC One M8 disconnects the media audio from my car (2016 GT Base) (the phone audio apparently stays connected.

I've changed nothing about my car or my phone since last night. My phone stays connected to other Bluetooth devices still, so I think it's the car, not the phone.

How can I fix this issue?

Hi fogus,

Can you confirm which version of SYNC is in your vehicle:http://owner.ford.com/how-tos/sync-...h-sync/how-to-identify-your-sync-version.html

I have a 2016 GT and the sync 3 is useless to me, it never connects to my Pandora, I cant use steering wheel controls when connected to my music library. The rhapsody and Sirius app suck when it comes to choosing music. On Sirius if you want to skip to the next song it changes to the next channel. I haven't even bothered with the rhapsody app because it connects when it feels like it. Any advice or ideas folks? All appreciated.

Hi BEEJ1971,

Try rebooting SYNC 3 by holding down the POWER button and the RIGHT SEEK button. Let me know if that helps.

Whitney

 

[fogus]

Hi fogus,

Can you confirm which version of SYNC is in your vehicle:http://owner.ford.com/how-tos/sync-...h-sync/how-to-identify-your-sync-version.html



Hi BEEJ1971,

Try rebooting SYNC 3 by holding down the POWER button and the RIGHT SEEK button. Let me know if that helps.

Whitney

I tried following that guide. I didn't find it very helpful.

 

[FordIVTteam]

I tried following that guide. I didn't find it very helpful.

Shoot me a PM with your VIN and we'll go from there.

Whitney

 

[Lilpinklindz]

I have had this problem since buying our Mustang in May. Happens about every 5/6 weeks after I pull battery cables. I've done everything listed here except the reset on the front of the radio, I might try that tomorrow. I called today and was told that as of 02/17/16 there was a service message (45646)out that pertained to my car at least since they showed me as running version 5.5. Basically it states it needs to be updated at Ford to 5.9. I scheduled appointment for next Tuesday so I can update after and see if it helps or not.
Personally it's shitty owning a brand new car and not being able to utilize the radio as you should be able to.

 

[fogus]

Happened again to me yesterday. I went for the "master reset" which looked like it worked, but didn't fix it for more than 5 mins. Then I tried the "hold the power button down and hold the right seek" button method. Didn't appear to do anything at all. Went for the car battery which fixed it again.

Is there a fix that Ford has that my dealer can apply?

 

[brandonsmash]

I've started carrying needlenose pliers in the center compartment so when this happens I can just pull fuses 32 and 33.

It's still fucking tedious, but maybe slightly less tedious than pulling the battery cable.

(Power/right seek did nothing for me.)

 

[fogus]

I've started carrying needlenose pliers in the center compartment so when this happens I can just pull fuses 32 and 33.

It's still fucking tedious, but maybe slightly less tedious than pulling the battery cable.

(Power/right seek did nothing for me.)

Where are the fuses? Are they easy to get to?

What else does pulling those fuses disrupt? Do they reset the time and the track apps?

 

[brandonsmash]

Where are the fuses? Are they easy to get to?

What else does pulling those fuses disrupt? Do they reset the time and the track apps?

The fuses are in the passenger-side footwell. The plastic fuse box cover is a bit finicky and you do have to apply some elbow grease to remove it. Count on requiring needle-nose pliers to remove the fuses.

That said, fuse 32 is Sync. That resets the Sync module. It does NOT affect your radio station, track apps, clock settings, etc.

I'd say that pulling the fuse is a slightly better option than removing the battery cables.

Still, though, either way it's absolutely ridiculous.

 

[Tobey]

Has a fix been found, other than pulling the fuse? My 2016 (base model vert; not Synch 3) did it for the first time this weekend. Worked fine in the morning, then started the disconnect thing in the afternoon.

 

[brandonsmash]

I was just at a dealer last weekend for this. All files are up to date, but they acknowledge that yes, this is a problem ("but it's better than it was in 2011!").

There is no known actual fix, but this is a known issue.

Apparently Ford thinks that pulling fuses or the negative battery cable should be standard operating procedure for using the factory Sync system.

I had a rental Ford Escape with Sync 3. I will say that Sync 3 is MUCH improved. I wish there were a way for me to upgrade that wouldn't cost me $1k+!

 

[FordIVTteam]

I was just at a dealer last weekend for this. All files are up to date, but they acknowledge that yes, this is a problem ("but it's better than it was in 2011!").

There is no known actual fix, but this is a known issue.

Apparently Ford thinks that pulling fuses or the negative battery cable should be standard operating procedure for using the factory Sync system.

I had a rental Ford Escape with Sync 3. I will say that Sync 3 is MUCH improved. I wish there were a way for me to upgrade that wouldn't cost me $1k+!

brandonsmash,

Has the dealer reached out to their Tech Hotline? This is their next point of contact when a resolution hasn't been made to permanently fix the issue.

Cara

 

[brandonsmash]

brandonsmash,

Has the dealer reached out to their Tech Hotline? This is their next point of contact when a resolution hasn't been made to permanently fix the issue.

Cara

Cara, this came from Berge Ford in Mesa, AZ. They did indicate that it was a known fault and pulled the programming information from the module to ensure that it was up to date.

To my knowledge no dealer has called the tech hotline, perhaps because it's just easier to pull the battery or fuse and do a hard reset (a master reset doesn't work).

To be fair, I've only taken it to 2 dealers when the unit's been acting up. Both of them have done the "just pull the battery cable!" bit and sent me on my way rather than investigating the root cause of failure. Knowing which fuse to pull and pulling over, fumbling around, and then pulling the fuse every 6 weeks is still less of a hassle for me than waiting for the problem to show itself and then scheduling an appointment and taking the car to the dealer, arranging rides, leaving the car (and my phone!) there, dealing with the hassle of Bluetooth not working in the interim, etc.

Realistically I should just wire a toggle switch in the glovebox to fuse 32 so when the unit craps out as it does every couple months I can just reach over and cycle the switch. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ox-BX88294-Bypass-Switch/dp/B00DUTDZAK

But without the absurd price point; I can make that same component for $7 and 30 minutes of my time.

 

[FordIVTteam]

Cara, this came from Berge Ford in Mesa, AZ. They did indicate that it was a known fault and pulled the programming information from the module to ensure that it was up to date.

To my knowledge no dealer has called the tech hotline, perhaps because it's just easier to pull the battery or fuse and do a hard reset (a master reset doesn't work).

To be fair, I've only taken it to 2 dealers when the unit's been acting up. Both of them have done the "just pull the battery cable!" bit and sent me on my way rather than investigating the root cause of failure. Knowing which fuse to pull and pulling over, fumbling around, and then pulling the fuse every 6 weeks is still less of a hassle for me than waiting for the problem to show itself and then scheduling an appointment and taking the car to the dealer, arranging rides, leaving the car (and my phone!) there, dealing with the hassle of Bluetooth not working in the interim, etc.

Realistically I should just wire a toggle switch in the glovebox to fuse 32 so when the unit craps out as it does every couple months I can just reach over and cycle the switch. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ox-BX88294-Bypass-Switch/dp/B00DUTDZAK

But without the absurd price point; I can make that same component for $7 and 30 minutes of my time.

Thanks for the info! I'd have to imagine that pulling fuses and battery cables is a hassle, and that's definitely not a permanent fix. Next time you're at the dealer, advise them that you spoke to the In-Vehicle Technology team and that they need to reach out to their Tech Hotline. A permanent fix needs to be found so you're not traveling with pliers anymore LOL.

Keep me updated!

Cara

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