Street tires better than mpss?

[hulk_smash]

I want to point out that the OP's original complaint was that MPSS doesn't hook up for him. There are other variables as to why a tire doesn't hook up such as your suspension. But tires are the biggest variable. I was simply stating that based on real world experience, MPSS is not a top tier summer tire. It is a max summer and not a extreme summer as someone pointed out. But at that price point, I'd expect a tire to be a little bit better? Maybe I demand too much.

Hulk_Smash - Thanks for all the info and feedback.

Question for you. I am looking for a new tire replacement for my 2015 GTPP that has the full Steeda suspension parts catalog on it with Koni adjustable shocks/struts.

I average about 6-7k miles a year. This includes some long trips (300-600 miles), mountain runs and running errands.

I am currently running Goodyear Eagle Supercar G2 tires in 285/35/20 up front and 305/35/20 out back. I was currently looking at the MPSS as the ones to buy. Based off your feedback provided above and other posts, what other tires would you recommend? I do have to drive my car in the rain sometimes, so keep that in mind. Any thoughts on the Nitto G2? NT05? I don't want something that is going to wear out in 6 months either .

Any input you have would be greatly appreciated.

Since your priority is commuting and resilience in rain with occasional backroads, I think MPSS is your best bet. Gets good wear too.

If you want a tire that has stiff sidewall, wide, superior dry traction (as opposed to a MPSS) with "good" wet traction, I'd say look into Yokohama AD08R. They max out at 295/35/19 I believe. Just know that you won't get the same wear from these tires as they are lower treadwear and much more sticky. But if you're going WOT a lot and thrashing your tires, I think the AD08R will wear better than a MPSS (relatively speaking based on the rate of wear).

:cheers:

I don't think anyone claimed that the MPSS was the ultimate for grip in a streetable summer tire. There are definitely better options if that is priority #1 and the rest doesn't really matter. It does have very impressive grip for its treadwear rating (300) and is track capable for the person who maybe does one or two a year and a couple autocrosses. Will that person be getting FTD? Probably not, but it's an extremely good all-arounder.

I am a good enough driver that if I spent a few grand a season on rubber, brakes, coilovers and such, I could do extremely well regionally in our local SCCA events. I can't do that right now saving for a house, and I think the wife would murder me! :lol: For a lot of us, we are lucky enough to afford this car and dedicated summer and winter sets of tires/wheels. When you're there, you have to compromise on a few things to get the best overall package. For a lot of people in that situation (myself included), something like the MPSS is the best option out there.

Thanks for sharing your experience

My original quote was to help the OP. The OP complained about not hooking up and slipping on his MPSS.

I do agree with your statement that MPSS is a pretty good performer for a 300 TW. But just like the RE71R is a 200 TW but performs like a 100 TW tire, maybe the MPSS is "300TW" but more like a "220TW?"

For the record, I corded a set of MPSS in 2x 20 minute session in hot weather. Car was on oem suspension and no camber plates if that adds any variables to the mix.

800 rwhp and my MPSS in 315/35 hooks fine. I spin at the top of first making peak boost but hooks in second on up. I leave the car in Track mode but I don't get power cut usually unless the pavement isn't in good shape.

MPSS is a superb street tire. I'm sticking with it for street applications. Bonus is they still aren't dangerous in cold weather or rain. You can drive on them in 50* rain without worry.

It's a very good street tire. But its compromised as a true A/S or a true performance tire imo. Basically it's a hybrid tire.

Three sets of MPSS buys you about 4 sets of an extreme summer tire.

Cheers.

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[BmacIL]

For the record, I corded a set of MPSS in 2x 20 minute session in hot weather. Car was on oem suspension and no camber plates if that adds any variables to the mix.

:eyebulge:

Talk about 10/10ths! Outside corners torn up?

 

[hulk_smash]

:eyebulge:

Talk about 10/10ths! Outside corners torn up?

Outside 1/3 was corded. NOT just the edge. Mind you I was on stock camber.

My friends have chunked MPSS in one 30 minute session with camber plates and suspension. It's not meant to be beaten up. It's meant to be a "street" tire.

MPSS is not resilient in extreme conditions. I don't autocross or drag race. I track on road courses which puts significantly more wear and tear on your tires.

I'm pretty sure the guys who track can resonate with what I'm saying.

You can roll your eyes all you want. Let's try to help the OP with his problem about traction. =)

 

[BmacIL]

Outside 1/3 was corded. NOT just the edge. Mind you I was on stock camber.

My friends have chunked MPSS in one 30 minute session with camber plates and suspension. It's not meant to be beaten up. It's meant to be a "street" tire.

MPSS is not resilient in extreme conditions. I don't autocross or drag race. I track on road courses which puts significantly more wear and tear on your tires.

I'm pretty sure the guys who track can resonate with what I'm saying.

You can roll your eyes all you want. Let's try to help the OP with his problem about traction. =)

And to that point...

I think the OP should try a free damper adjustment before plopping down a good chunk of cash on new tires. Weight transfer is your friend.

Otherwise, I would probably go with what was suggested: RE71R's, NT05's, R888's or AD08 R's. The Star Specs and R-S3's are good too. He could also try something like P-zero Trofeo R's or Sport Cup 2's, but those are mega pricey and won't wear well at all.

 

[Sharad]

I did some cyber-sleuthing and I believe the OP said he's running -1.7* camber in the back. Based on the way he describes his driving, I think he'd be good to go with -0.5* camber in the back which would increase his straight line traction.

Two Cents.

 

[atekido]

Wide does not always equal good grip.

 

[mustang_guy]

Wear ratings between two different companies will never be a good indicator of how it will wear from one brand to the next. It will only matter when its same brand, unfortunately

 

[BmacIL]

I did some cyber-sleuthing and I believe the OP said he's running -1.7* camber in the back. Based on the way he describes his driving, I think he'd be good to go with -0.5* camber in the back which would increase his straight line traction.

Two Cents.

Eh...closer to - 1.0-1.2 would be better otherwise he could have a decent amount of positive camber during cornering.

 

[Niz55]

Thanks all for your comments. I adjusted my compression and it did not work. I am still spinning going from 1st to second and with traction off I have to let off the throttle so the car doesn't go sideways and that actually kills the power and time. I just got another alignment 4 days ago and my rear camber is -1.5 and front is -1.3 with total of 20 toe on back and 10 up front.

Mpss are really excellent tires and they do make the car feel so planted around the corner and i love the steering response. I might try the nto5r or the Bridgestone when the rears need to be replace.

 

[mustang_guy]

Dont use drag radials like nt05r unless you have/plan upgraded axles or dont care if you snap axles. They are much harder on axles than slicks.

 

[Todd15Fastback]

[MENTION=24427]hulk_smash[/MENTION] any feedback on the Yokohama Advan Sport V105 vs. MPSS? And The Continental ContiSportContact 5P? These 5P have some very high praises from Ferrari and Porsche owners. Saying they liked them better than the MPSS in the dry.

I can get them in 295/30/20 and 305/30/20.

 

[toplesstripcruiser]

Have you considered looking into the Nitto 555 G2? I hear good things about it. Hook well, great in the wet, wear well, and some have considered it on par with the MPSS but at a much cheaper price point.

 

[Andrewg]

Dont use drag radials like nt05r unless you have/plan upgraded axles or dont care if you snap axles. They are much harder on axles than slicks.

Unless you're taking it to the drag strip you won't need upgraded axles to use the NT05R as a street tire.

One thing I would say from my experience is if you plan on taking it to the road course and have different tires front to back you'll quickly get annoyed. The NT05 and R888 were great as a street combo (albeit the R888s wore quicker than I would have liked) but on track the R888 would get up to temp and the NT05 were still cold. By the time the NT05 were at their grippiest, the R888 had overheated.

 

[mustang_guy]

Unless you're taking it to the drag strip you won't need upgraded axles to use the NT05R as a street tire.

One thing I would say from my experience is if you plan on taking it to the road course and have different tires front to back you'll quickly get annoyed. The NT05 and R888 were great as a street combo (albeit the R888s wore quicker than I would have liked) but on track the R888 would get up to temp and the NT05 were still cold. By the time the NT05 were at their grippiest, the R888 had overheated.

Axles can most definitely be broken on radials on the street. It is a bit harder but can most definitely happen. With the way he wants to beat it on the street its not a matter of if, its a matter or when.

 

[Niz55]

Just wondering, could it be my pedalmax causing this issue because of such a quick throttle response?

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