Storage question

[brfdrums]

For those that store you car over winter months, do you sit it on jack stands/lift? I may have to not drive mine for about 12 weeks and I'm curious if that time will cause flat spots on my tires. I've never had to store a vehicle before so I'm not sure if this is even a thing...I know I need to trickle device. Next will storage cause any issues with fluids. I have fresh oil and will be changing trans and diff soon. Any pointers are welcome...Thanks

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[Skye]

Below is the last thread I contributed to, with a list of things I accomplish.

Regarding the jack stands, I wouldn't bother. The car is made to spend its life under its own weight. Placing a vehicle on stands fully-extends the suspension, something I'd rather not do.

I have A/S tires on my car. Flat spots have not been an issue. I store my vehicle for an average of four months. While in storage, tires are inflated to the pressure Ford ships them with: 40 psi / 2.75 bar. While anyone may experience some flat-spotting, it will be temporary. After driving a bit, everything will smooth out.

If you have Summer tires on your car and the temps where stored will approach freezing, see my comments below. It's a preference to remove these tires or not. You could air them to 40 psi and simply not move the car until it's above a certain temperature for a period of time.

For fluids, I do use Stabil in the gas. Unless you have any maintenance coming due during storage, other fluids can be left as-is. GA, so the factory coolant strength and the warming temperatures will prevent freezing. The Oil Life Monitor will continue to count down, even when not driven. You'll lose 2% a week. Trans and diff will be fine.

When returning, the issue of pre-oiling the engine is sometimes discussed, always debated. I just start the car and go. I recently started my car after several months of downtime. The engine started and oil pressure pegged the meter almost immediately. The gauge responded no differently than if I had turned the vehicle off moments before. And this makes sense to me. At shutdown, any hot oil will drain to the pan almost immediately. And then stop. The rest of the oil in the galleys, on surfaces and in the filter just sits. YMMV.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/winter-storage-first-timer-any-tips.221581/#post-4374187

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/batter-tender-battery-connection.172738/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/engine-priming-after-winter-storage.155323/

Skye is stored for several months throughout Winter.

Times past, rock salt and sand were used on the roads in my area. The last few years, they've been using a brine (salt) solution. Sand and grit are still used in more challenging locations.

While salt was always a concern, the material being sprayed now is tacky. I've noticed that, just as it sticks to the road a few days before a storm arrives, it also stays longer on body surfaces. The material takes more effort to remove it.

If you have Summer tires, be mindful of the temperature in the storage location.

If the garage temps will be approaching 40 F / 4 C or colder, it'd be a good idea to take the wheels off and stow inside. I wouldn't be to concerned about an occasional one-off, but cycling in and out of that temperature range, it's something I'd rather not do.

If these temps are seen, let the tire come up to at least 50 F / 10 C or hotter, 24 hours continuous, before rolling the tire or moving the vehicle.

- If any maintenance will be due during storage, lean forward and accomplish early

- Full detailing, inside and out

- One bottle of Stabil* and a full tank of gas

- Air tires up to 40 psi / 2.75 bar

- Park in garage, chock wheels

- Car left in neutral

- Parking brake NOT engaged

- Battery tender attached

- Car covered

- Lock vehicle

- Engine will not spin again until the cover is removed and the vehicle is driven

Once a month or so, I'll inspect the vehicle. Cover comes partially off. Using a torch, I'll review the interior, under hood and under car.

* To pour in the Stabil, you'll need the small white funnel from the trunk, or a similar funnel from the parts store.

Coming out of storage:

- Disconnect the battery tender

- De-pressurize tires

- Drive, one hour, continuous. The first drive is something of a trial. All I'm doing is function testing, checking for weird noises, leaks, smells, letting everything move around well. I will encounter some minor flat-spotting, for about the first 15 minutes or so. After this initial drive, it's like nothing ever happened and I drive like I normally would

For those concerned about mice:

- Remove all sources of food from the immediate area

- Remove all materials which could become bedding

- De-clutter the storage area

- Mice do not like strong and intense smells of some kinds. Many use mints or mint oils, at the tires, under hood and sometimes inside the cabin. Others report success with scented dryer sheets

- Depending on the exhaust system, insert steel wool in the exhaust tip openings

- Inspect the area and vehicle often. When you do, make noise and disrupt things. Make the area unwelcoming. Leave lights on. Cycle lights on/off over time

- Set traps throughout the area. Peanut butter or peanut butter crackers seem to be a favorite

- Check outside, the permitter of the home or storage location. Look for signs of varmint activity

- If you use any of the high frequency devices, keep them powered at all times and move them often

 

[robvas]

I store mine on dollies so I can move it around the garage without starting it. Also helps because I have only a two car garage, so I can slide it over into the corner to free up room.

Any flat spots you get (some people get them overnight) will go away after a couple miles of driving anyway

 

[brfdrums]

Below is the last thread I contributed to, with a list of things I accomplish.

Regarding the jack stands, I wouldn't bother. The car is made to spend its life under its own weight. Placing a vehicle on stands fully-extends the suspension, something I'd rather not do.

I have A/S tires on my car. Flat spots have not been an issue. I store my vehicle for an average of four months. While in storage, tires are inflated to the pressure Ford ships them with: 40 psi / 2.75 bar. While anyone may experience some flat-spotting, it will be temporary. After driving a bit, everything will smooth out.

If you have Summer tires on your car and the temps where stored will approach freezing, see my comments below. It's a preference to remove these tires or not. You could air them to 40 psi and simply not move the car until it's above a certain temperature for a period of time.

For fluids, I do use Stabil in the gas. Unless you have any maintenance coming due during storage, other fluids can be left as-is. GA, so the factory coolant strength and the warming temperatures will prevent freezing. The Oil Life Monitor will continue to count down, even when not driven. You'll lose 2% a week. Trans and diff will be fine.

When returning, the issue of pre-oiling the engine is sometimes discussed, always debated. I just start the car and go. I recently started my car after several months of downtime. The engine started and oil pressure pegged the meter almost immediately. The gauge responded no differently than if I had turned the vehicle off moments before. And this makes sense to me. At shutdown, any hot oil will drain to the pan almost immediately. And then stop. The rest of the oil in the galleys, on surfaces and in the filter just sits. YMMV.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/winter-storage-first-timer-any-tips.221581/#post-4374187

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/batter-tender-battery-connection.172738/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/engine-priming-after-winter-storage.155323/

Thanks! And I swear I did a search for "storage" and nothing came up...if it is stored it will be during the spring. Starting in March, up to May. Just wasn't sure whether or not I needed to wait on any of the fluids I'll be changing and the tire thing...Thanks for the info!

 

[Raffro]

Agreed with the above. Keep the suspension loaded. If worried about flat spots you can over air them or park on carpet tiles (or make your own). Put a CTEK (or similar) on the battery too. I typically change the oil before storage as well. Removes any acids and whatnot that may have accumulated during driving season.

Then when getting it out of hibernation I always prime the oil before firing it for the first time. The 350 is easy to do thankfully. My 07 911 turbo was a bit of a pain by having to pull the fuses to the fuel pumps and cranking it - but it works. I do this after oil changes as well (probably a little overkill but it’s piece of mind I guess).

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