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Step by Step Guide to Enabling Blind Spot Information System (BLIS) and Cross Traffic Alert (CTA)
- Thread starter Bull Run
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- blis cta sodl sodr
ToasterHunter
New Member
First time posting on this forum, I just want to say a huge thank you to everyone who has posted in this thread, without this I definitely would not have been able to do this, or even thought it possible.
I have a 2020 EB, and the whole process went smoothly without any hiccups in terms of car incompatibility (it seems all of the information 18+ still applies to this model year).
The parts list that I used are below. This does not include standard automotive tools such as screwdrivers and body panel removal tools.
2x Blind spot monitors (jr3t-14d453-cc)– Purchased on eBay used pulled from a ‘19.
2x blind spot brackets (FT4Z14D189A)– purchased directly from Ford.
4x M4 Machine screws – I do not remember the length of these, I would estimate you need 8-10mm length. Also I would suggest using some locktite as it looks like the ford OEM T orx screws have some sort of threadlocker pre-applied. Purchased from Ace Hardware
2x blind spot pigtails (WPT1545)– purchased directly from Ford
100x bag of Noninsulated Crimp-On Butt Splices for 22-18 gauge (7227K32)– Purchased from McMaster-Carr
Channellock 9-1/2 in. Crimping Pliers– Purchased from Home Depot (Highly recommend)
Various colored spools of stranded 22 Ga copper wire– Purchased from McMaster-Carr
lots of eat shrink tubing (for using with the butt splices) – Had on hand, don’t forget a lighter/heat gun!
Wire stripping tool – any will do, but I suggest getting an automatic one, one where you can control thelength of wire that is stripped, this helps a lot when working in tight spaces with the butt splices.
2x rolls of Tessa tape 51036 – Purchased from amazon, used 1.5 rolls for the whole project
2x Mirror Glass with Heat and BLIS – FR3Z17K707D (right) AND FR3Z17K707G (left) – purchased on eBay. Note, all descriptions of this part on Ford parts websites are WRONG. They DO have BLIS. Confused me for a long time and the people I called at multiple dealerships were no help. I should have trusted the forum in the first place!
2x 02R-JWPF-VSLE-S male connector – These are the male connectors used to connect to the LED connector on the back of the mirror glass. I purchased mine on eBay because no regular supplier had them in stock at the time. I suggest getting at least one extra in case you mess up the crimp. You can use standard needle-nose pliers to crimp these.
2x "1456968-3" female connectors – Purchased from Digikey, get extra for practice! These are the female crimp-on sockets used in the door connector. From what I can tell, these and 1456968-1 are identical (just oriented differently on the reel packaging), 1456968-1 was out of stock at the time and is what is generally recommended on Ford forums, however I can confirm the -3 works perfect.
2x "1924968-2" – Purchased from Digikey. These are the male crimp-on sockets used in the door connector. Similar as above, generally the 1924968-1 is recommended, however I could not find the 1924968-1 or 1924968-3 in stock anywhere. The 1924968-2 is a slightly different part as it is specced for 18 gauge wire (-1 and -3 are used for 20-22 gauge wire like I used) however with some finesse you can get it securely onto the wire. This does not change the actual pin shape at all and it still fits easily into the socket.
I apologize I do not have any pictures, or another step-by-step. I just wanted to post a list of the materials I used and can confirm worked for me as of May 2021. I also did not think I could add too much more to what is already here.
I also HIGHLY recommend anyone attempting this in the future actually uses proper connectors in the door connector rather than drilling it out. The crimps are not difficult to use, and allow for an almost completely OEM look.
Overall this project took MUCH longer than I was expecting, and I really do not recommend it if you are not ready for a multiple full-day project (especially if you are installing the OEM mirrors). The most difficult part is “properly” running the single wire from the sensors to the mirror. I basically had to take out every piece of trim in the car, including the back seats to properly follow the wiring harness.
Personally I would probably not do it again as the utility for me does not outweigh the time and money that it cost. I however did learn a ton about my car in the meantime, as I had not taken it apart this extensively before.
Thank you again for everyone who helped contribute! I will do my best to answer questions if anyone else is embarking on this task in the future as well.
I have a 2020 EB, and the whole process went smoothly without any hiccups in terms of car incompatibility (it seems all of the information 18+ still applies to this model year).
The parts list that I used are below. This does not include standard automotive tools such as screwdrivers and body panel removal tools.
2x Blind spot monitors (jr3t-14d453-cc)– Purchased on eBay used pulled from a ‘19.
2x blind spot brackets (FT4Z14D189A)– purchased directly from Ford.
4x M4 Machine screws – I do not remember the length of these, I would estimate you need 8-10mm length. Also I would suggest using some locktite as it looks like the ford OEM T orx screws have some sort of threadlocker pre-applied. Purchased from Ace Hardware
2x blind spot pigtails (WPT1545)– purchased directly from Ford
100x bag of Noninsulated Crimp-On Butt Splices for 22-18 gauge (7227K32)– Purchased from McMaster-Carr
Channellock 9-1/2 in. Crimping Pliers– Purchased from Home Depot (Highly recommend)
Various colored spools of stranded 22 Ga copper wire– Purchased from McMaster-Carr
lots of eat shrink tubing (for using with the butt splices) – Had on hand, don’t forget a lighter/heat gun!
Wire stripping tool – any will do, but I suggest getting an automatic one, one where you can control thelength of wire that is stripped, this helps a lot when working in tight spaces with the butt splices.
2x rolls of Tessa tape 51036 – Purchased from amazon, used 1.5 rolls for the whole project
2x Mirror Glass with Heat and BLIS – FR3Z17K707D (right) AND FR3Z17K707G (left) – purchased on eBay. Note, all descriptions of this part on Ford parts websites are WRONG. They DO have BLIS. Confused me for a long time and the people I called at multiple dealerships were no help. I should have trusted the forum in the first place!
2x 02R-JWPF-VSLE-S male connector – These are the male connectors used to connect to the LED connector on the back of the mirror glass. I purchased mine on eBay because no regular supplier had them in stock at the time. I suggest getting at least one extra in case you mess up the crimp. You can use standard needle-nose pliers to crimp these.
2x "1456968-3" female connectors – Purchased from Digikey, get extra for practice! These are the female crimp-on sockets used in the door connector. From what I can tell, these and 1456968-1 are identical (just oriented differently on the reel packaging), 1456968-1 was out of stock at the time and is what is generally recommended on Ford forums, however I can confirm the -3 works perfect.
2x "1924968-2" – Purchased from Digikey. These are the male crimp-on sockets used in the door connector. Similar as above, generally the 1924968-1 is recommended, however I could not find the 1924968-1 or 1924968-3 in stock anywhere. The 1924968-2 is a slightly different part as it is specced for 18 gauge wire (-1 and -3 are used for 20-22 gauge wire like I used) however with some finesse you can get it securely onto the wire. This does not change the actual pin shape at all and it still fits easily into the socket.
I apologize I do not have any pictures, or another step-by-step. I just wanted to post a list of the materials I used and can confirm worked for me as of May 2021. I also did not think I could add too much more to what is already here.
I also HIGHLY recommend anyone attempting this in the future actually uses proper connectors in the door connector rather than drilling it out. The crimps are not difficult to use, and allow for an almost completely OEM look.
Overall this project took MUCH longer than I was expecting, and I really do not recommend it if you are not ready for a multiple full-day project (especially if you are installing the OEM mirrors). The most difficult part is “properly” running the single wire from the sensors to the mirror. I basically had to take out every piece of trim in the car, including the back seats to properly follow the wiring harness.
Personally I would probably not do it again as the utility for me does not outweigh the time and money that it cost. I however did learn a ton about my car in the meantime, as I had not taken it apart this extensively before.
Thank you again for everyone who helped contribute! I will do my best to answer questions if anyone else is embarking on this task in the future as well.
mikesly
Member
So I'm ready to do this, but I'm still a bit fuzzy on where I get the SODL & SODR codes to add to my 2018 GT Premium coupe.
Will the codes listed in step 3 in the Updating configuration with FORScan section work for my car?
Or do I have to find an 18 401A coupe that was ordered with the BLIS option and use those codes?
If so, how do I find a VIN that has that option?
I think understand I have to change the VIN to mine:
For SODL, lines 7C4-08-01, 7C4-08-02, 7C4-09-01, 7C4-09-02, 7C4-10-01
and for SODR, lines 7C6-08-01, 7C6-08-02, 7C6-09-01, 7C6-09-02, 7C6-10-01
Is that correct?
Will the codes listed in step 3 in the Updating configuration with FORScan section work for my car?
Or do I have to find an 18 401A coupe that was ordered with the BLIS option and use those codes?
If so, how do I find a VIN that has that option?
I think understand I have to change the VIN to mine:
For SODL, lines 7C4-08-01, 7C4-08-02, 7C4-09-01, 7C4-09-02, 7C4-10-01
and for SODR, lines 7C6-08-01, 7C6-08-02, 7C6-09-01, 7C6-09-02, 7C6-10-01
Is that correct?
Falk03
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You do not need to copy the code from another vehicle. Just add your VIN, gear box (manual or automatic) and that's it. There are a couple of more settings you might adjust or leave as they are.
And it does not matter left or right, both modules get the same configuration. And yes, 7C4 and 7C6 sound about right.
rubens_5.0
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Thank you for this was confused for a long time for the mirrors because yeah ford websites say no blis on mirrors for that part and i ordered the mirror that ends with g on ebay and didnt have blis
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mikesly
Member
Oh that’s awesome - thanks for the reply!!!
I was a bit fuzzy because someone said that 18 & newer had more hex digits in their lines.
I appreciate all the help you guys have provided! Great group for sure!
I was a bit fuzzy because someone said that 18 & newer had more hex digits in their lines.
I appreciate all the help you guys have provided! Great group for sure!
mikesly
Member
So I got it all installed (went for LEDs in the A pillars instead of the mirrors). FORScan sees the modules, but throws DTCs. I got the VIN changed in both SODR & SODL. But I cannot for the life of me find the 720-XX-XX lines in any of the modules. When I go into the IPC it asks me to enter miles or KM and then to set a new number. I bailed at that point, maybe I should continue and just enter the current mileage???
Also - on mine (2018 GT Premium) 7C4-01-01 & 7C6-01-01 are 98xx, not 0000.
I have no clue at all what to do with that. (I have a manual tranny)...
Also - on mine (2018 GT Premium) 7C4-01-01 & 7C6-01-01 are 98xx, not 0000.
I have no clue at all what to do with that. (I have a manual tranny)...
Last edited:
Blade007
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In forscan do you see more that one ipc? Sometimes they have two. I believe you need to go into the asbuilt one to make those changes. They other should be for the mileage.
Let us know if that works
mikesly
Member
That was it - me being stupid and not realizing the window scrolls... I got the BLIS and CTA options to show up in the dash - Thanks!
But I'm getting DTC for both modules
SODL is getting Code: U0199 - Lost communication with Door Control ModuleA
SODR is getting Code: U0200 - Lost communication with Door Control Module B
The OP got the same thing and fixed by copying the AS-BUILT data from a similar car.
His was an EB, mine's a GT so I can't use that data. (Or can I ???)
Where can I find valid data to use to fix this?
Also - I entered my VIN in the correct fields in the SODR & L as-built addresses, and the correct vin shows up when I look at the SODL and SODR values (both as-built and the not as built), but the VIN that the sensors came from still shows the donor vin when I look at them in the info section of forscan:
Is that normal or an indication that something's off?
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Blade007
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Falk03
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Sorry, previous answer was crap. Could you send me your 7C4 (SODL) and 740 (DDM) configuration?That was it - me being stupid and not realizing the window scrolls... I got the BLIS and CTA options to show up in the dash - Thanks!
But I'm getting DTC for both modules
SODL is getting Code: U0199 - Lost communication with Door Control ModuleA
SODR is getting Code: U0200 - Lost communication with Door Control Module B
The OP got the same thing and fixed by copying the AS-BUILT data from a similar car.
His was an EB, mine's a GT so I can't use that data. (Or can I ???)
Where can I find valid data to use to fix this?
Also - I entered my VIN in the correct fields in the SODR & L as-built addresses, and the correct vin shows up when I look at the SODL and SODR values (both as-built and the not as built), but the VIN that the sensors came from still shows the donor vin when I look at them in the info section of forscan:
Is that normal or an indication that something's off?
I have a configuration to check against... Here is an example for an 18 PP automatic Coupe.
<DATA LABEL="7C4-01-01">
<CODE>0000</CODE>
<CODE>00CD</CODE>
<CODE />
</DATA>
<DATA LABEL="7C4-02-01">
<CODE>5D0A</CODE>
<CODE>0000</CODE>
<CODE>0035</CODE>
</DATA>
<DATA LABEL="7C4-02-02">
<CODE>0000</CODE>
<CODE>01D0</CODE>
<CODE />
</DATA>
<DATA LABEL="7C4-03-01">
<CODE>0B09</CODE>
<CODE>E3</CODE>
<CODE />
</DATA>
<DATA LABEL="7C4-04-01">
<CODE>5F0A</CODE>
<CODE>39</CODE>
<CODE />
</DATA>
<DATA LABEL="7C4-05-01">
<CODE>1E0A</CODE>
<CODE>0400</CODE>
<CODE>00FD</CODE>
</DATA>
<DATA LABEL="7C4-05-02">
<CODE>2541</CODE>
<CODE>38</CODE>
<CODE />
</DATA>
<DATA LABEL="7C4-06-01">
<CODE>2439</CODE>
<CODE>646E</CODE>
<CODE>0001</CODE>
</DATA>
<DATA LABEL="7C4-07-01">
<CODE>4060</CODE>
<CODE>080A</CODE>
<CODE>199E</CODE>
</DATA>
<DATA LABEL="7C4-07-02">
<CODE>0FE3</CODE>
<CODE />
<CODE />
</DATA>
Last edited:
mikesly
Member
Here's the SODL:
I couldn't find anything called DDM
I was finally able to track down a 2018 GT Premium 6M with PP!
This is what is in the SOD lines for that car:
| 7C4-01-01 | 2200 | 00EF | |
| 7C4-02-01 | 5F0A | 2F23 | 19A2 |
| 7C4-02-02 | 1214 | 0001 | 3026 |
| 7C4-03-01 | 0B09 | E3 | |
| 7C4-04-01 | 5F0A | 39 | |
| 7C4-05-01 | 1E0A | 0400 | 0401 |
| 7C4-05-02 | 2541 | 38 | |
| 7C4-06-01 | 2439 | 646E | 0001 |
| 7C4-07-01 | 1260 | 080A | 1970 |
| 7C4-07-02 | 0028 | 2828 | 4C |
| 7C4-08-01 | 3146 | 4136 | 5012 |
| 7C4-08-02 | 380D | ||
| 7C4-09-01 | 4346 | 374A | 3514 |
| 7C4-09-02 | 3107 | ||
| 7C4-10-01 | 3035 | 3639 | 36E6 |
| 7C4-11-01 | 0046 | 0A23 | 0A5A |
| 7C4-11-02 | 5000 | 2E | |
| 7C4-12-01 | 0603 | E7 | |
| 7C6-01-01 | 2200 | 00F1 | |
| 7C6-02-01 | 5F0A | 2F23 | 19A4 |
| 7C6-02-02 | 1214 | 0001 | 3028 |
| 7C6-03-01 | 0B09 | E5 | |
| 7C6-04-01 | 5F0A | 3B | |
| 7C6-05-01 | 1E0A | 0400 | 0403 |
| 7C6-05-02 | 2541 | 3A | |
| 7C6-06-01 | 2439 | 646E | 0003 |
| 7C6-07-01 | 1260 | 080A | 1972 |
| 7C6-07-02 | 0028 | 2828 | 4E |
| 7C6-08-01 | 3146 | 4136 | 5014 |
| 7C6-08-02 | 380F | ||
| 7C6-09-01 | 4346 | 374A | 3516 |
| 7C6-09-02 | 3109 | ||
| 7C6-10-01 | 3035 | 3639 | 36E8 |
| 7C6-11-01 | 0046 | 0A23 | 0A5C |
| 7C6-11-02 | 5000 | 30 | |
| 7C6-12-01 | 0603 | E9 |
There are more lines in the 2018 version for the SODL & SODR than in the 2015-2017 versions.
How do I handle the extra lines???
I went in with a clear head this morning and started over from the beginning.
I got it to work on the passenger side, but the drivers side is throwing an open circuit error.
So time to triple check the connections - Power or ground are the ones I need to look at, right?
Thanks for all your help everyone - you guys are an awesome bunch of really smart people!!!
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mikesly
Member
Has anybody seen the cross traffic alert option in the APIM module?
Does anyone know what that does?
I suppose I can just turn it on and see.
Right now the BLIS and CTA lights are working as expected, but they are silent.
In the vehicles I have had with the option installed at the factory CTA emits a warning sound.
Maybe this setting turns that on???
So I enabled the cross traffic alert in the APIM module and all it did was display an empty black window on my sync3 screen. maybe 3 inches high by 4 inches wide.
It must need other hardware or sensors or something, so I disabled it again.
Then looking thru the rest of the options I found blind spot alert warning and cross traffic alert warning options that were both disabled, so I tired to enable them.
But when I tried to write the enabled values it told me that the settings were invalid and it wouldn't allow me to turn them on.
At any rate, the LED lights in the pillars are working correctly for both blis and cta, and I am able to turn both blis and cta on and off in the menus.
Thanks again to everyone who helped and to Bull Run for posting this in the first place.
There isn't much left on my car that is stock, but this is one of my favorite mods because I learned so much from doing it!
Last edited:
Blade007
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I recommend going through the configuration with forscan on the first page and confirm that they are as they should be.
I did this a while ago so honestly I don't really recall every step.
I know the cross traffic will sound an alarm and then show up on the ipc to indicate which direction the car is coming from.
Check the modules in forscan for any dtc's
I agree that both @Bull Run and @Falk03 are pioneers man.
I also had a lot of help from @Falk03 and @Brad2579 with the heated mirrors and ambient lighting as I did those at the same time.
Check the settings in the ipc as it sounds like that might be the issue. I used a 2017 module so it was pretty easy to follow.
Let us know what you find
Falk03
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DDM ... Driver Door Module and it should have codes starting with 740.
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