Dark Pony
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Hello all. Figured I'd write a little review of the spec SS trim super twin disk clutch since there isn't much out there on them for our cars, at least not that I saw. Seems that the most popular options are the mcloed Rst or Rxt or the mantic.
I've never owned a twin disk clutch before, so I can't compare them to any other twins, however I have owned a few high performance single disk clutches that I can make comparisons to. I ruled out the mcloed for a couple of reasons, the main ones being people seemed to talk about the them chattering and being noisy, plus I wanted a sprung disk (which I have been told that they make and you can get for an up charge, however I didn't know that at the time and probably wouldn't have changed my mind). I've only heard good things about mantic clutches, and if price was not a consideration, then I probably would have gone that way based purely on what others have said about them. Price was a consideration for me though, so I had to rule them out. After looking at some other options, and reading a little review from another member on here, I decided to give the spec a a shot.
After driving it a couple thousand miles I feel like I can comment on it. The first thing I noticed was that the engagement point is at the very top of the pedal travel, like the first 2 inches. I've heard that some people like that, but I do not. I like there being some kind of resistance to help me modulate/slip the clutch, but at the very top of the stroke there is little to none. I bought a ram hydraulic clutch pedal adjuster to try and make it a bit better, and while I was able to lower the pedal engagement point, it does not lower where in the stroke the clutch engages/disengages. Another thing is the small engagement window. Most of the clutches I have used have that point where it just starts to grab and you can make the car roll forward a bit and modulate it a little to make it go a little faster or slower, well, the window on this clutch to do that is a lot smaller. I'm not going to say its on and off like a light switch, because it's not and I've become better at it, but it's something to be aware of. Having the smaller engagement window and it being at the very top of the stroke will take some practice. Either one of them by itself wouldn't be that big of a deal, i.e high engagement point with big engagement wondow, or lower in the stroke with a smaller engagement window. At this point now, I can drive it pretty good with nice smooth take offs from lights. The only thing that will kind of give me issues now is if I need to take off kinda quickly, like I wasn't looking at the light and it turned green and the other cars are going. Trying to take off fast can be a bit challenging as clutch to throttle ratio needs a lot more finesse to do right and not look like a dick head.
As far as clutch chatter, I haven't really experienced any. Even though this clutch takes a bit more work to modulate, I haven't really had any chatter. If you understand the clutch and what you need to do, you can get smooth take offs. It will take a bit more gas, but it's not terrible. I've had clutches that seemed be easier to modulate, but still seemed to have more chatter. Another thing, I haven't experienced any clutch noise. I have heard that twin disks can be noisy, however that doesn't seem to be the case with this clutch, and if there is noise, I don't seem to hear it. The clutch has held the power I have, which last time I dynoed and had some fueling issues was right at 600whp. Fueling issues have been fixed and headers added, so wherever a paxton 2200sl with 3.6 pulley and 2018 intake mani on 93 is that's what it's holding. Maybe between 600-650ish.
Anyhow, overall I'd say it's decent. Having not tried anything else, it's hard to say where it stacks up. The clutch is rebuildable, however when it comes tome for that, I'm not sure if I'm gonna do that, or try something else. hopefully I described everything correctly. I'm not the most technical person but I wanted to be as descriptive as possible to help someone else that may be looking at this clutch. If you have any questions feel free to ask
I've never owned a twin disk clutch before, so I can't compare them to any other twins, however I have owned a few high performance single disk clutches that I can make comparisons to. I ruled out the mcloed for a couple of reasons, the main ones being people seemed to talk about the them chattering and being noisy, plus I wanted a sprung disk (which I have been told that they make and you can get for an up charge, however I didn't know that at the time and probably wouldn't have changed my mind). I've only heard good things about mantic clutches, and if price was not a consideration, then I probably would have gone that way based purely on what others have said about them. Price was a consideration for me though, so I had to rule them out. After looking at some other options, and reading a little review from another member on here, I decided to give the spec a a shot.
After driving it a couple thousand miles I feel like I can comment on it. The first thing I noticed was that the engagement point is at the very top of the pedal travel, like the first 2 inches. I've heard that some people like that, but I do not. I like there being some kind of resistance to help me modulate/slip the clutch, but at the very top of the stroke there is little to none. I bought a ram hydraulic clutch pedal adjuster to try and make it a bit better, and while I was able to lower the pedal engagement point, it does not lower where in the stroke the clutch engages/disengages. Another thing is the small engagement window. Most of the clutches I have used have that point where it just starts to grab and you can make the car roll forward a bit and modulate it a little to make it go a little faster or slower, well, the window on this clutch to do that is a lot smaller. I'm not going to say its on and off like a light switch, because it's not and I've become better at it, but it's something to be aware of. Having the smaller engagement window and it being at the very top of the stroke will take some practice. Either one of them by itself wouldn't be that big of a deal, i.e high engagement point with big engagement wondow, or lower in the stroke with a smaller engagement window. At this point now, I can drive it pretty good with nice smooth take offs from lights. The only thing that will kind of give me issues now is if I need to take off kinda quickly, like I wasn't looking at the light and it turned green and the other cars are going. Trying to take off fast can be a bit challenging as clutch to throttle ratio needs a lot more finesse to do right and not look like a dick head.
As far as clutch chatter, I haven't really experienced any. Even though this clutch takes a bit more work to modulate, I haven't really had any chatter. If you understand the clutch and what you need to do, you can get smooth take offs. It will take a bit more gas, but it's not terrible. I've had clutches that seemed be easier to modulate, but still seemed to have more chatter. Another thing, I haven't experienced any clutch noise. I have heard that twin disks can be noisy, however that doesn't seem to be the case with this clutch, and if there is noise, I don't seem to hear it. The clutch has held the power I have, which last time I dynoed and had some fueling issues was right at 600whp. Fueling issues have been fixed and headers added, so wherever a paxton 2200sl with 3.6 pulley and 2018 intake mani on 93 is that's what it's holding. Maybe between 600-650ish.
Anyhow, overall I'd say it's decent. Having not tried anything else, it's hard to say where it stacks up. The clutch is rebuildable, however when it comes tome for that, I'm not sure if I'm gonna do that, or try something else. hopefully I described everything correctly. I'm not the most technical person but I wanted to be as descriptive as possible to help someone else that may be looking at this clutch. If you have any questions feel free to ask
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